It comes down to 1UPT as always. There's nothing to make you want "one more turn" because something only happens every 10 turns, with tedious unit micro inbetween. Production has to be a slog to avoid carpets of doom. Techs aren't exciting because it takes forever to build whatever they unlock. And moving units is a royal PITA, because pretending the strategic map can function as a tactical map leads to slogs where units move 1 tile at a time, making actual tactics impossible (ever notice how every other tactics fighting game has much larger unit move speeds? FF Tactics, Advance Wars, Panzer General, etc). Every turn is just... kinda lame. You can't even make meaningful diplomacy choices thanks to the return of utterly irrational AI, with agendas that actively discourage you from playing the game normally (what should you do, completely ignore city-states all game or get insta-dow'd?).
I really like the idea of districts, city placement optimization is an extremely fun puzzle for me, this seems like it could get better with patches. 1UPT could actually work if you made the maps, say, 3-4x as large, gave units actual movement points (5+), and let cities expand 7 tiles wide (obv with much faster city/border growth and reworked tile yields). Basically change from "force a tactical map to work on a much smaller scale than needed" to "force a strategic civ map to work on a much larger scale than usual" which would be a lot more doable, and allow production to actually, y'know, produce stuff, since now we have room for units again. (I think there was a Civ5 mod along those lines? I can't find it again, lmk if there is)