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I'm not going to comment too much on the game but take a look at the position after 32. b3. You played your bishop back to a6, see if you cannot find something even better to do.

After 36. bxc4 you played Ba5. This is not a bad move in itself but could there be something better you can do? There are a lot of general principles in chess for all sorts of situations, do you know what you are supposed to do when ahead in material?

Let's say for example that you start the game with rook odds, that is your opponent has removed one frook from the board. Which of the following two goals would you think gives you the best chance of winning:

1. Play tactically difficult positions and tricky moves hoping that your opponent makes the big mistake rather than you.
2. Play as simple as possible making fair trades as often as possible to be left with an extra rook in the end against his lone king.

If you said #2 you would be right. Why give yourself chances to go wrong in complicated positions if you can just trade everything down and win with the extra material? This is the idea behind the general principle "when ahead - trade pieces but not neccessarely pawns". (Ahead in this case means about a piece or more, if it's only a single pawn it might not be enough to be winning and then maybe you need some tactics to win. And trading pawns left and right can sometimes give you a position where you would win if you could queen a pawn but there are no more pawns to queen so always be careful with the last few pawns.) See if you can apply this principle to the position in your game and find a better continuation.

After writing all that I noticed you did actually play this idea later on, why did you not play it at once?
 
Not only does it trade when ahead in material.... it also wins material (giving up rook worth about 5 pawns for knight and bishop worth about 6 pawns). And now for the first question, can you find an improvement on move 32?
 
Panzar's back!! :) I got a cool game to show you Panz (which I blew on time in the end :cry: ), give me a few hours & I'll put it up.
 
I'm actually still struggling on that first one - I figured taking the rook then probably won just as much material, but since the rook wasn't going anywhere I figured I'd keep it simple and keep my bishop. Maybe Bd3 enticing the knight to trade of as well ... but if you were going to push me for an answer I'd say probably 32...Bxc1 33.bxc4 Rd1 is good for Black.
 
Here's one of my games from last Sundays quads. I am both proud & embarrassed of it. Proud that I unleashed such a strong attack against a near-expert & embarrassed that I blew it in the end in time trouble & lost on time. :blush:

White could have played much stronger. An early d4 instead of d3 would've given him a solid initiative.

I was proud of my move 16 pawn sac f4 (though Fritz seems to think an immediate Ng4 was slightly stronger). White goes seriously astray at this point but my clock is down to just a couple of minutes. I start to panic & my beautifully orchestrated pieces fall into disarray (this is all after I stopped writing down the moves so fortunately you can't see just how badly I messed up). I considered 24. ... Rxf4 which according to Fritz is best & would've led to a decisive advantage. I also considered the provalatic 24. .... d5 which Fritz doesn't like at all but which probably would've kept me from losing (after 25. c5 I played Ba7, instead of Re3 or Ne3 or even Rxf4, all winning) and white managed to get his bishop to b2 & exposed my king, my pieces got pinned down & with 8 seconds left on my clock I resigned in disgust, having lost both the pieces I was ahead (rook & minor piece) with an awful position.

G-45 is simply not G-60. Especially when it's really G-40 (with 5sec delay), at my South Jersey club the TD gives us the option of playing the regular time PLUS the delay (so G-60 +5). This makes a huge difference but where I am now the main time control is 40+5 so I'm going to have to get used to it.

Anyway, here's the game.

[Event "Westfield Quads"]
[Site "Westfield, NJ YMCA"]
[Date "2010.04.11"]
[Round "1"]
[White "Minkov, Ari"]
[Black "Norris, Tony"]
[Result "1-0"]
[ECO "A25"]
[WhiteElo "1960"]
[BlackElo "1905"]

1. c4 e5 2. g3 Nc6 3. Bg2 f5 4. e3 Nf6 5. Ne2 Bc5 6. d3 O-O 7. Nbc3 d6 8. O-O
a6 9. a3 Qe8 10. b4 Bb6 11. Bb2 Bd7 12. Qb3 Kh8 13. a4 a5 14. b5 Nb4 15. Rad1
Qh5 16. Ba3 f4 17. gxf4 Bh3 18. d4 Ng4 19. Bxb7 Bxf1 20. Kxf1 Qxh2 21. Bg2 exf4
22. Nxf4 g5 23. Nce2 gxf4 24. Nxf4 Rae8 25. c5 1-0
 
Here's another game from the same quads. This time it was my opponent who caved under pressure (in a relatively even game). I played well in the opening but this kind of fizzled out as I let the pressure off & the endgame seemed drawish. However, I figured if anyone had chances it was me so I pressed on & eventually my opponent panicked & sacced the exchange after which I won fairly easily.

[Event "Westfield Quads"]
[Site "Westfield, NJ"]
[Date "2010.04.11"]
[Round "2"]
[White "Norris, Tony"]
[Black "Garcia, Ramon"]
[Result "1-0"]
[ECO "B11"]
[WhiteElo "1905"]
[BlackElo "1930"]

1. e4 c6 2. Nc3 d5 3. Nf3 Bg4 4. h3 Bh5
5. exd5 cxd5 6. g4 Bg6 7. Bb5+ Nc6 8. Ne5 Rc8 9. h4 f6 10. Bxc6+ bxc6 11. Nxg6
hxg6 12. d4 e5 13. dxe5 fxe5 14. Qe2 Bd6 15. g5 Ne7 16. Bd2 Nf5 17. Qg4 Rh5 18.
O-O-O Kf7 19. Ne2 Qh8 20. Ng3 Rxh4 21. Nxf5 Rxg4 22. Nxd6+ Ke6 23. Rxh8 Rxh8
24. Nb7 d4 25. c3 Kd5 26. cxd4 exd4 27. Na5 c5 28. b3 Rg2 29. f3 Rf2 30. f4
Rhh2 31. Nc4 Ke4 32. Re1+ Kf3 33. Re6 Rf1+ 34. Kc2 Ra1 35. Ra6 Rxd2+ 36. Nxd2+
Kxf4 37. a4 1-0

stopped recording here due to being short of time, my opponent resigned about 10 moves later.
 
I'm actually still struggling on that first one - I figured taking the rook then probably won just as much material, but since the rook wasn't going anywhere I figured I'd keep it simple and keep my bishop. Maybe Bd3 enticing the knight to trade of as well ... but if you were going to push me for an answer I'd say probably 32...Bxc1 33.bxc4 Rd1 is good for Black.

Keeping the bishop is indeed a fine move in this position but you should always try to find the best moves. Next time the difference might just be what wins you the game (I put it to the computer and the difference was almost as much as a full rook so there is a big difference between the two moves). If this was a 15 minute game I would not expect you to get it right but now that you have time and the ability to move pieces on the board you should try to find out which move is indeed the better one. This is good practice, the better you evaluate a position the better you are at chosing moves and thus the better player you are. So: let's practice.

I would like to know your thought process:

1. What happens on Ba6 and what's the material balance after a few moves?
2. What happens on Bxe1 and what's the material balance after a few moves?
3. Which King is safer and why?

That is, try to guess white's move and then your move and then white's move again until there is nothing more tactical going on in the position. If you thought "Ba6 saves the bishop" and then stopped analyzing the poition you made a quiescence error and the same goes for the line you gave above, there are still tactics going on that could win or lose you more material. Don't be discouraged if it's hard, that's when you learn the most. Just give it a go and see what you come up with and we'll go from there.
 
Here's one of my games from last Sundays quads.

More than the equivalent of queen up when your notation ends... but the whole game was a tangled mess of complicated so it's still a nightmare to play with little time. Still, if you keep this up you are bound to start winning them eventually.

Here's another game from the same quads.

You did see 37. Nb1 afterwards? Nasty little trap for his rook.
 
More than the equivalent of queen up when your notation ends... but the whole game was a tangled mess of complicated so it's still a nightmare to play with little time. Still, if you keep this up you are bound to start winning them eventually.
Yes, unfortunately I don't think I'll be able to get away with a similar attack again against that opponent (at least not the same kind of attack).

You did see 37. Nb1 afterwards? Nasty little trap for his rook.
I saw it during the game but in time pressure I didn't have time to properly think it through & feared he might be able to push the d-pawn (though looking at it afterwards I realized I could just put the rook behind the pawn & be fine).
 
[Event "Leaugegame"]
[White "1908"]
[Black "2089"]
[Result "0-1"]
[NIC ""]
[ECO "Trompovsky"]
[PlyCount "98"]

1. d4 Nf6 2. Bg5 e6 3. e4 h6 4. Bxf6 Qxf6 5. Nc3 Bb4 6. Qd2 d6 7. Nf3 Nc6 8. a3 Ba5 9. b4 Bb6 10. Rd1 e5 11. d5 Nd4 12. Nxd4 Bxd4 13. Bb5 Kf8 14. O-O Bg4 15. Rde1 a6 16. Be2 Bd7 17. Nd1 g5 18. c3 Bb6 19. Ne3 h5 20. c4 a5 21. Rc1 axb4 22. axb4 Bd4 23. Nc2 Ra2 24. Qd3 Bb6 25. Qb3 Ra7 26. Ne3 Bd4 27. Nc2 Ba4 28. Qd3 Bxc2 29. Rxc2 b6 30. Qf3 Qg6 31. Qf5 Qxf5 32. exf5 Ke7 33. g3 Kf6 34. Bd3 Ra3 35. Rd1 g4 36. h4 gxh3 37. Kh2 h4 38. g4 Rb3 39. b5 Ra8 40. Be4 Raa3 41. f3 Kg5 42. Rdd2 Be3 43. Re2 Bf4 44. Kxh3 Rxf3 45. Bxf3 Rxf3 46. Kg2 Kxg4 47. Rf2 h3 48. Kh1 Rd3 49. Rf1 Kxf5
0-1

Since I didn’t feel motivated I didn’t prepare at all. I knew he played the Tromp from a blitz-tournament and since I had prepared that a couple months back I could rely on that for a bit.
9. b4 seems to be the novelty, white usually avoids Nf3 altogether and plays 7. a3 and 8. f4 judging by the databases. 11. Nd5?! wasn’t good because of Qg6. In the game my dark squared bishop turned out to be an absolute monster after his inaccurate 27. Nc2?! (he played to fast and completely missed Ba4 he told me some similarities with my own game also played a bad 27th move) It is often said that opposite colored bishops lead to draws but this is highly untrue with heavy pieces on the board. I managed to completely control the a-file which I used to enter his position with my rooks. When I sacrificed the exchange the game was over. According to the computer 48.. Rxf2 followed by e4 was even better but who cares. I didn’t make any big mistakes according to the machine...

Have been playing really unstable since February. I think I already said that. Hope I can follow through on this win even though my next long game probably will be in august with leagues and championships now finished.

BTW @ Narz: i find it remarkable that in the states G-60 seems to be the standard. In Holland that's a timecontrol that's absolutely never used (except for U14 competitions). In Holland it's usually G-120 or G-180 (with seperate timecontrols) or rapid (G-20) or blitz (G-5).
Do you ever play any longer games because those quads seem to be just in between rapid and long play. They do allow you to calculate and think a bit more deeply but not that much.
Furthermore i am surprised d that these actually seem to count towards the ratings. Way too short for dutch list let alone the fide list.
 
I guess the US is just a more rushed culture.

G-60 is "long" for many players here. G-30 or G-45 are equally as common. Some clubs have longer (40 in 80 SD-30) or G-110 or G-120 but I'd say G-60 or G-30 is more common.

Unfortunately the only club near my home now (18 miles away) has mostly just G-45 quads.

Here's my most interesting recent game :

[Event "Westfield Quads"]
[Date "2010.04.18"]
[Round "3"]
[White "Norris, Tony"]
[Black "Pederson Roger"]
[Result "0-1"]
[ECO "C17"]
[WhiteElo "1905"]
[BlackElo "1912"]

1. e4 e6 2. d4 d5 3. Nc3 Bb4 4. e5 c5 5.
Bd2 a6 6. a3 Bxc3 7. Bxc3 cxd4 8. Qxd4 Ne7 9. Nf3 Nbc6 10. Qg4 Ng6 11. O-O-O
Bd7 12. h4 h5 13. Qg3 Rc8 14. Bd3 Nce7 15. Ng5 Kf8 16. Bb4 Kg8 17. Bd6 Qe8 18.
Rhe1 Bb5 19. Bxe7 Nxe7 20. Re3 Nf5 21. Bxf5 exf5 22. e6 f6 23. Nf7 f4 24. Qxf4
Rc4 25. Rd4 Rh7 26. Rxc4 dxc4 27. Nd6 Qe7 28. Nxb5 axb5 29. Qb8+ Qf8 30. Qxb7
g6 31. e7 Qe8 32. Qxb5 Qxb5 33. e8=Q+ Qxe8 34. Rxe8+ Kf7 35. Rc8 0-1

Amazingly I managed to lose this game. Not draw, but lose!

I was nearly out of time & somewhat resentful of my opponent playing on. Amazingly he got his king down to the corner & managed to queen a pawn. I had a rook & two pawns vs. queen (and king). He repeatedly offered draws & claimed a repeat & called the TD but I protested. I was just so furious at myself for blowing the game three pawns up. Not only didn't I win but he snagged the two pawns & it was just queen & king vs. rook & king. After about 25 moves he managed to win my rook & I resigned in digust.

On the plus side, in another game in this quad I was down three pawns in the endgame & I managed to draw.

G-45 (really 40 min with 5 sec delay) is kind of disrespectful to the endgame.

I liked my opening play though (though I kind of lost steam & the game drifted towards equal until 20. ... Nf5?? where I got a winning advantage.

On the other hand I screwed up with 28. Nxb5. Had I just attacked the queen instead I would have had pretty much ZERO losing or drawing chances.
 
A co-worker challenged me to a game, claiming mad chess skills. Suffice it to say that this was far from the case, as you will see from this notation. I am "lamburov".

[Event "italian perfume"]
[Site "http://gameknot.com/chess.pl?bd=13687244"]
[Date "2010.04.19"]
[Round "-"]
[White "lamburov"]
[Black "noseintheair"]
[Result "1-0"]
[WhiteElo "1200"]
[BlackElo "1200"]
[TimeControl "1/259200"]
[Mode "ICS"]
[Termination "normal"]

1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Bc5 3. Nxe5 Qg5 4. d4 Qf6 5. f4 Bb4+ 6. c3 Ba5 7. Nc4 Nc6
8. e5 Qf5 9. Bd3 Qg4 10. Qxg4 Nh6 11. Qxg7 Rf8 12. Qxh6 d5 13. Ne3 Be6
14. f5 Bd7 15. Nxd5 Rd8 16. b4 Bb6 17. b5 Ne7 18. c4 Bxd4 19. Nxc7# 1-0
 
Amazingly I managed to lose this game. Not draw, but lose!

Quite true. I think we all know the feeling of ruining a completely winning position. It's so painful just because you re the one messing up (your opponent might play back well but you fail), your own stupidity is i think (at least for me) the most painful thing in chess. If you are just outplayed ok but this is so much more painful. Losing gruelling 100 move games in drawn endgames against FMs also hurts as does mixing up things in the opening... For example.
As for the game 26. Nd6 first seems better winning the d5 pawn and maintaining the passed pawn. After your choice i would probably play 28. Nf5 maintaining the strong knight versus weak bishop, followed by e7. Still the way you played should have won too ofcourse. You did really well to reach a winning endgame with a nice Qxb5 combination. Still timetrouble is often troubling. I myself play really well in blitzgames (usually around 2300 level at least) but timetrouble in a long game is just a different cup of tea. Maybe it's that when you lose a blitzgame there will always follow another (esp in a tournament) but if you lose a long game you lose rating, your team might lose, you have to wait a week to play again, you feel bad etc. Different kind of pressure. I usually try to avoid timetrouble (easier when playing like 2h for 40 moves + 1h ko) but playing too fast can also lead to blunders so its important to maintain a good balance. As a good rule of thumb i try not to be behind on time by move 30 and have at least 5 minutes for 10 moves.
My latest game against the 1908 i was behind all the time but that was just because he played really fast. I had used 90 minutes for the game i think...
 
Nice game!

Thanks, but to be honest, I didn't feel much of a challenge. For a good portion of the game, he was giving pieces away. He gave away a pawn in the opening, and then gave away his queen in move#9. I don't see how I couldn't have won. In fact, if you notice, all I lost was 1 pawn in the whole game. He challenged me to a third game after this, and I declined. (There was a first game which was even more murderous, where he ended up resigning.)
 
1. What happens on Ba6 and what's the material balance after a few moves?
2. What happens on Bxe1 and what's the material balance after a few moves?
3. Which King is safer and why?

Going back to this, if I may.

After 32...Ba6, I was struggling to see how White prevents the loss of a whole rook or the equivalent. 33.Re5 fails to 33...Rd1+ 34.Bf1 Bb7+ which will mate. 33.Rg1 fails to 33...Bxg1 34.Kxg1 Rd1+ and the Knight falls.
So white's best move must be 33.Rf1, leading to 33...Bxf1 34.Bxf1 Rd1. But here I now see that 35.Kg2 is a good try for white. I could play 35...Rxc1 36.Kxf2 Rxc3 37.Bc4 after which I have only gained the equivalent of three points and given up my bishop pair. Alternatively and maybe preferably I have 35...Bxg3 after which 36.Ne2 looks to be white's best, even after 36...Bxh2 37.Kf2 as my bishop is restricted.
Also white's king is perfectly safe in these lines.

After 32...Bxe1, 33.bxc4 Rd1 Black is in a whole lot more trouble. 34.Ne2 fails to 34...Bxg3+ 35.Bf1 Rxf1+ 36.Kg2 and now another key move which I missed somehow first time around 36...Rf2+ winning the knight back for the bishop and Black is a full rook ahead.
No other move I could find which saves one of the minor pieces eg. 34.Nb3 Bxc3+ and white must lose the bishop. So here black comes out a full rook and pawn ahead in any variation.

I have to say I had no idea how many tactical points were in this position. Definitely more than meets the eye.

Nice games, guys, by the way: I do play them all out. Especially liked the smothered mate one.
 
You have a good grasp of the situation now. First line wins the exchange and a pawn or two while the second line wins even more material and reduces the material enough to make the win trivial.
 
I haven't slept well lately & have been playing a lot of blitz & bullet... which I'm generally not very good at... which generally is bad for my confidence... which triggers all sorts of psychological issues that make me want to play more blitz to prove I can play better. But I can't seem to play it all that well. Even as my USCF has jumped 450 points my blitz game seems to remain fairly stagnant (though I have done ok in G-10 tournies OTB, I usually play better OTB in general).

So I wisely decided to take a break from blitz (swearing it off for some time I hope!) and I played a longer game online tonight (25 with 5 sec inc.).

Fairly pleased with the game, fun & sacrificial (though I'm not sure how perfectly sound my sacs were against best play). Supposedly my opponent was a USCF expert but who knows online.

http://www.chess.com/livechess/game.html?id=23435188

[Event "Live Chess"]
[Site "Chess.com"]
[Date "2010.05.07"]
[White "Narz"]
[Black "BehemothTheCat"]
[Result "1-0"]
[WhiteElo "1696"]
[BlackElo "1760"]
[TimeControl "25|5"]
[Termination "Narz won by resignation"]

1.e4 c5 2.c3 Nf6 3.e5 Nd5 4.d4 cxd4 5.Qxd4 e6 6.Nf3 Nc6 7.Qe4 f5 8.Qe2 b6 9.g3 Bb7 10.Bg2 Qc7
11.O-O Nde7 12.c4 Ng6 13.Bf4 Be7 14.Nc3 a6 15.Rad1 O-O 16.h4 Nxf4 17.gxf4 Rfe8 18.Ng5 h6 19.Qh5 Rf8 20.Nd5 exd5
21.Bxd5+ Kh8 22.Qg6 Bxg5 23.hxg5 Nxe5 24.fxe5 Bxd5 25.gxh6 d6 26.exd6 Qf7 27.hxg7+ Qxg7 28.Qxg7+ Kxg7 29.Rxd5 Kf6 1-0

Kind of wish he didn't resign because I need to work on my endgames!
 
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