I like the vanilla stuff a lot. Standard standard continents.
Some games I like to double the number of city states. Other games, raging barbs.
I like building scenarios (that usually favor me). Add all militaristic civs, then add 2 more civs to the game to ensure there is a lot of fighting and isn't a lot of space. Then run Always War(edit the XML 0->1 for it). Or remove 2 civs and add all REXers like netherlands for a quick speed Always Peace territory buildup race.
When playing single player, I use promotion saving and policy saving sometimes - because although I prefer them on, I try not to get used to them since I do play some multiplayer. Quick combat is a must at this point, as much as it sold me initially when first starting out in the series, they aren't short animations.
I would play larger maps as they are easily my favorite, but the turn times have made this prohibitively slow. Turn times start impeding the fun factor on anything past a small map on my CPU:/ imo the gameplay plays best at large/epic in terms of military obsolescence vs. military movement rate, but with turn timers in excess of 30 seconds starting in medieval, you'll spend hours waiting every game. It's brutal.