"Mainstream" media reviews are worse than useless on average. Not only will you get consistently more accurate portrayals by selecting randomly from YouTubers or arbitrarily chosen posters here, you'll get a more clear picture of the game with the very real possibility of a more skillful take on it (not that typical media reviewers set the bar high there, the somewhat infamous Cuphead trash can review is near the bottom of that barrel, but it's not a quality barrel in general).
Why are they worse than players' opinion chosen at random? Active incentive to deceive with a proven track record of both bias (aggregate score averages towards AAA compared to anything done by actual players) and outright actual deception (take Civ 5 vanilla's release reviews, getting > 9 out of 10 while its MP was literally non-functional, with many articles not even mentioning this fact). I don't care if this was an "issue expected to be fixed", giving a game with an advertised feature not even working > 9 out of 10 and not mentioning that or any of the other issues discernible inside 30-60 minutes of play is not *actually* professional, is not a credible representation of the game by any reasonable standard, and if encouraged not to be mentioned is the sort of dishonesty that merits the advice to ignore them.
If the model can't keep up with the demands of giving people a decent picture of the game without deception and with enough ability to understand how to play it, the model is dead.
It's perfectly reasonable to point out that "professional" reviews in the vein of old school magazine article writers or people who only play the game briefly are outdated as a model and can't measure up to a random person more than half my age showing you the game at a decent level of play. That's BEFORE they gave us a reason to actively distrust them. You'd be better off asking my old pair of shoes I should have thrown away already whether Civ 6 is good or not, then tossing them in the air and deciding based on whether after 10 tries they landed more on the right or left side

.
His advice to try to offset bias by asking on different forums and think for himself based on the answers he gets is spot on and will vastly outperform "professional" (emphasis for disdain) reviewers because it puts more emphasis on both actual gameplay and his own contextual perspective. Watching a YouTube video of a good player at 2x speed should do the trick too, you can see the actual decisions being made.
Another way to look at it is that YouTubers and random posters with experience here *are* the professional reviewers. In terms of knowledge conveyed and accuracy of the review, they are certainly well ahead of mainstream media reviews. Kind of like if I were paid to give you advice on throwing a football and an actual pro player volunteered the information, you should probably still learn from the pro. I've never thrown the ball professionally or even in college. What I tell you isn't nearly as useful and can't be, even if people give me money to say it.