I wouldn’t say the modern victory conditions are super exciting or anything, but every game builds a sense of history that the map offers reminders of, and the modern age slows down at the end just long enough to savor the memories before moving onto the next game. Sometimes the prettier combinations of natural wonders, cliffs, waterfalls, city walls and wonders leave me zooming in and just immersing myself in them for part of a turn.
The civ and leader bonuses all seemed a bit mild and dry to me when I was reading about the game, but playing them feels as flavorful as anything I remember in VI. I think it may be the unique civics tree for each civ that builds a sense of depth on top of the uniques.
I’ve mod my game up to get huge AI armies some games, and war will develop such a sense of peril, especially when the crisis starts, that I am ready to open the peace screen and give up a city. I relish the victory all the more when I stick it out, wait for an opportunity, and try something that will turn the tide for good or ill. I know every tile around a 15 tile length of Great Wall my last war was fought over. Ultimately plague cut off my enemy’s peripheral city and created an opening to widen our conquest as my army fought through the pestilence as the defenders were forced flee or succumb.
In peaceful games, I really fall in love with my cities as I build them, feeling the reward of long-built wonders later when I hit +4/5/6 adjacencies. I never really liked cities in VI.