[RD] Backpacking Việt Nam (2019)

Yes, every situation is different and mostly I just kept walking when faced with pushy sellers. In a boat you are quite trapped. When you are traveling alone and have a temporary companion, it is smart to work together to have a great experience. :)
 
Bích Động Pagoda

After the boat tour was complete I jumped back on the motorcycle and was taken to the nearby Bích Động Pagoda, which was built in 1428. It's actually a complex made up of three distinct pagodas: the Hạ (Lower) pagoda, the Trung (Middle) pagoda, and the Thượng (Upper) pagoda. There is some really interesting architecture and scenery at this site. Some sources I've found claim that these were built in the 18th century and not the 15th. I suspect different parts were built at different times, but I'm not really sure as there seems to be conflicting information about this online.

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He means the solid grey features along the top and edges of tiled roof part. The very top roof line has all kinds of fancy sculptured ornamentation at the ends and in the middle.
 
Looking at some other pictures of the site, I think the roof tiles are pottery. There is quite a bit of uniformity in their color and it looks like a red terra cotta.
 
I would have to say it's probably pottery. Here's a photo of a nearby structure that seems to confirm this.. although each building here could have been constructed and/or renovated during completely different periods of time

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Bích Động Cave Temples

One of the most interesting parts of the whole site is an interconnected set of caves.

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It was not easy to get a good shot without a tripod. The only other shot I have that's worth sharing is a bit blurry

Spoiler :
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I wouldn't be surprised if these clay shingles were a renovation put in place after (or during?) the French colonial period. I'm completely guessing here, so I could be wrong


I wouldn't expect so? China was the world's tech leader until 1800 or so. And Vietnam is near enough so that merchants spread ideas and information.
 
I really don't know enough about that to say other than guess.. It just seems like some of them might have been reconstructions and/or more recent additions. But let me segway into the fact that northern Vietnam has indeed over the years been heavily influenced by Chinese culture. In fact, there are four eras of "Northern domination", during which northern Vietnam was ruled by various Chinese dynasties, the second of which lasted 500 years. The last one ended in 1427 (and only lasted 20 years), but either way you can't escape the Chinese influence in northern Vietnam.
 
Đền Thái Vi

The Thái Vi Temple was built by King Tran Thái Tong in 1258 after his victory over the invading Chinese forces. The story is that after the battle he retired in Ninh Bình province and was inspired by the beauty of the surroundings, building a small temple where he could meditate. Parts of the temple have been renovated and reconstructed as recently as 2006..

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Evidence of an upcoming festival could be seen in the courtyard. Turns out I missed it by just 3 days.

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There was a sort of religious ceremony underway inside Thái Vi Temple. I'm not sure if this is a regular occurrence here or a ceremony leading up to the upcoming festival. I took off my shoes, inquired about the possibility of recording and/or photographing the proceedings, and made my way inside.




I did more watching than recording here, so what you do not see is her outfit changing several times during the ceremony. It was quite an elaborate set of proceedings that seemed to have a multitude of unique stages. At various points she would also take some money from the tray and throw it into the crowd. I ended up with two of the bills and kept them for good luck. Not that I really believe in luck, but I was sort of mesmerized by the ceremony and was excited to be in some way a part of it.
 
Very cool! About how long did it last?
 
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