[RD] Backpacking Việt Nam (2019)

[warpus]

Japanese Covered Bridge Pagoda

The Japanese bridge is known as the pagoda bridge not only because it has a pagoda style roof. In 1763 a shrine was constructed right on the bridge in an effort to help safeguard the area against earthquakes and flooding.

The shrine is dedicated to Tran Vo Bac De, the Taoist God of Weather, who is one of the highest ranking Taoist deities.

 

[warpus]

Lunch in Hội An

Even though Hội An is not really that far away from Huế it nevertheless has its own distinct cuisine and its own distinct dishes. There are many restaurants in and near the old town that highlight some of these dishes on their menus.

Cao Lầu

This dish is unique in that the noodles used are made from rice soaked in lye water, giving them a more chewy and springy texture. It is usually served with marinated pork, greens, been sprouts, herbs, and topped with some of the rice noodles that have been deep fried until crispy. A bit of broth is poured into the bowl before serving.

It is said that it is not common to find this dish in other parts of Vietnam because of the local ingredients traditionally used in its creation. For example, the lye used is traditionally made from ingredients found on the nearby Chàm islands and the water used to boil the noodles comes from the local Bá Lễ well. This well is about a thousand years old and is a tourist attraction in its own right, although I do not think I ended up seeing it.

Bánh Bao Bánh Vạc
White Rose Dumplings

From what I understand this dish is not really eaten by locals, due to the cost and Chinese origins. You will find it at many restaurants in the area though, especially those in and near the old town that tend to cater to tourists. The water used to make this dish also comes from a nearby ancient well, although I haven't been able to figure out if it's the same well as the previous dish. For this reason it is also rare to find this dish in other parts of Vietnam.

These dumplings are wrapped in translucent rice paper to resemble a flower shape, although the "white rose" name was not coined until the 1990s. The preparation of the dough is said to be a family secret, although it involves mixing rice flour with water and pounding the mixture in a mortar. The filling is a mixture of shrimp, mushrooms, bean sprouts, and spring onions. The finished dish is topped with fried shallots and served with sweetened fish sauce.

I was not a huge fan of this dish if we're being honest, but it wasn't bad. I would go as far as saying it was good, but just not something I would order again.

 

[warpus]

Kazimierz Kwiatkowski Memorial Park

As I was walking through the streets of the Hội An old town I came upon a small park. There was an empty bench available with some shade, so I sat down to take a short break from all the walking. After a while I caught myself staring at the statue on the other side of the park. There was just something about it..

I walked closer and read the name. Kazimierz Kwiatkowski. It was not a name I'd ever heard before, but it was definitely Polish. I pulled out my phone and started reading.

Kazimierz Kwiatkowski was an architect who spent the last 16 years of his life in Hội An. He is apparently a well known name in Vietnam and is also known by the names "Kazik", "Znachor", "Healer", and "Man from the Jungle". "Znachor" is curiously a reference to a 1982 Polish movie that apparently became popular in Vietnam as well. The main character has a distinctive beard that seems reminiscent of Kazik's.

So what was a Polish architect doing in Vietnam and why is there a statue of him in Hội An?

In the early 1970s Vietnam was badly damaged and reeling from decades of war. Vietnamese authorities began to look for international help so they could preserve the historic Vietnamese monuments and structures that had survived the fighting. More specifically they were interested in experienced architects who could speak French and Russian and had experience in the conservation of monuments. And so Kazimierz Kwatowski, who had just completed his masters, became the head of the Polish-Vietnamese Monument Conservation Mission and moved to Vietnam.

Kazik spent the first months of his time in Vietnam living in a bamboo hut while overseeing the rescue and restoration of various Vietnamese and Champa monuments and structures. Many invaluable historical artefacts were saved, and even some treasure found along the way. This work continued for a couple years, although eventually I assume he got set up in a proper apartment of some kind.

In 1982 Kazik visited Hội An in order to relax and bathe in the sea. He stumbled upon what is now the old town and began to examine the buildings with interest. He noticed that they had historical significance and began to take notes and ask questions. Turns out that the local authorities had plans to tear the whole lot down. The buildings were old and moldy and so the plan was to tear them all down so they could be replaced with a new housing development.

Kazik became infatuated with the old town and began a campaign to save and restore it. He pleaded with local authorities and eventually was able to convince the right people and secure enough funding to save the whole old town. Because of this he is remembered fondly in Vietnam and has his own memorial park in the centre of Hội An's old town.

Spoiler :

 

[Birdjaguar]

Hmmm....Was there a Republic of Poland in 1944?

 

[warpus]

Technically there wasn't, but this was probably easier to write. It could have also been written this way out of respect. I suspect it's just a language thing though

 

[FriendlyFire]

I was not a huge fan of this dish if we're being honest, but it wasn't bad.

Was it recommended to you ?
Normally would eat Bun bell which is practically the same but without meat/shrimp, instead served with a lot fried croutons and sprinkling of dried shrimp. Delicious when its freshly made

 

[warpus]

Was it recommended to you ?
Normally would eat Bun bell which is practically the same but without meat/shrimp, instead served with a lot fried croutons and sprinkling of dried shrimp. Delicious when its freshly made

It wasn't recommended to me but I kept seeing it on menus and it looked interesting enough to try. Next time I fly to Vietnam I'll have to get some extra tips from you

 

[FriendlyFire]

It wasn't recommended to me but I kept seeing it on menus and it looked interesting enough to try. Next time I fly to Vietnam I'll have to get some extra tips from you

Normally you cant go wrong just by watching what the locals are all ordering and just ordering the same dish
Ordering items that are rarely sold or might not be made a lot at that specific restaurant is generally a bit of a risk. Its like going to an Italian restaurant that's known for its pasta and ordering a Risotto
Dont worry too much about that though as it an adventure after all.

 

[warpus]

I'd pay to cross and then perhaps cross back on a different one so I could see the covered bridge from a distance.

That's basically what I did! You can cross the Japanese covered bridge as many times as you want as well, as long as your pass is valid, so you have options.

 

[Birdjaguar]

What a beautiful bridge!

 

[warpus]

The Thu Bồn River

The Hội An old town lies on the northern bank of this river, which was the centre of Champa culture for almost 700 years. In 1471 the Champa were fully annexed by the kingdom of Đại Việt, after hundreds of years of conflict. The final battle allegedly involved 500 warships and 30,000 troops on the Vietnamese side.

The river is actually quite a bit wider than this. What you are looking at on the other side of the water is actually an elongated island that creates this narrow sort of canal. I am not sure if this canal is manmade or natural, but either way it seems like a perfect spot for a trading port.

This was one of my favourite parts of Vietnam. The pace of life feels much slower here, the well preserved old town takes you back to a different time, the river and canals make everything more beautiful and interesting, there are sandy beaches nearby, and I ate some of the best food on the whole trip here.

 

[warpus]

Hội An & Nagasaki Trading History

Contact between Japanese and Vietnamese traders dates back to at least the 16th century, although Vietnamese-Japanese relations are about 1,000 years old. By the time the port in Hội An opened there were already hundreds of Japanese traders living near the site.

In the 17th century Japanese Red-seal Shuinsen ships sailed to Hội An with red-sealed letters issued by the Tokugawa shogunate. The Shuinsen were armed merchant ships which brought Japanese traders, who would often settle at major Southeast Asian trading ports. This is the reason there is a Japanese bridge and Japanese built structures in the Hội An old town.

 

[warpus]

Hội An Artisans

Ever since the Hội An trading port was established in 1595 artisans from all over Vietnam moved here and set up nearby single-craft villages in order to tap into international trade opportunities. Ancient Hội An became known as a producer of high-quality silks and ceramics. Woodworking, metalworking, lacquer making, paper crafts, and many other types of crafts were also popular here. The silk trade has since moved elsewhere, but many of these artisanal traditions remain in the area to this day.

 

[warpus]

The City of Lanterns

Hội An is known as the city of lanterns. They are just everywhere, especially in and near the old town, but also along major roads, inside & outside of people's homes, in restaurants and in shops, and on boats that traverse the canal.

The story is that Chinese traders brought lanterns with them here in the 16th century as a way to combat homesickness. This caught on and now they are an integral part of Hội An.

Most of the photos I've been posting are in chronological order, but I will make an exception in this case to show you what this looks like at night. It really is a bit magical!

 

[Birdjaguar]

That top pic is a great street scene!

 

[The_J]

The bottom pic is an overall great scene .

 

[warpus]

The Bridge of Lights
Cầu Đèn Lồng

This bridge is sort of a central focus of the old town and is extremely popular with selfie takers and photographers. It connects the old town with Nguyễn Hoàng Island, which at first glance looks like an extension of the old town. Both sides of the canal are packed with restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops selling all sorts of wares.

Boats actually can and do go under the bridge! It looks like it would be a tight fit, but that's a bit of an optical illusion.

You might have recognized the Japanese covered bridge as the symbol on the sign.

 

[warpus]

Steamed Pork Belly Buns @ Nữ Eatery

For lunch I found a tiny restaurant that's more contemporary and sort of designed to impress tourists rather than provide authentic Vietnamese dishes. The food scene in Hội An impressed me so far and I was ready to mix it up a bit and try something different. The portions here were small but the food was very good. People online were raving about the steamed pork belly buns so that's what I ended up ordering (plus of course a coffee)

I remember this restaurant being a bit tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the old town. I swear I walked through narrow walkways to get here, but according to google maps this restaurant is very close to the Japanese covered bridge. From my experience Google maps doesn't get everything right when it comes to Vietnamese business locations, but neither does my brain. Either way, here's a photo one of the narrow walkways, in this case nestled in between two art galleries.

 

[Birdjaguar]

Bacon "hamburgers" ?

 

[warpus]

Bacon "hamburgers" ?

They were more like.. those Chinese steamed buns, with porkbelly, pickle, and sauce on the inside. They look like hamburgers, but they reminded me moreso of those Chinese steamed buns that sometimes have a bean paste inside. Except in this case there's no filling in the bun itself. The porkbelly doesn't really remind of bacon either, it's more like the sort of braised porkbelly you can get at Chinese restaurants.