MarineCorps
Explosion!
ainwood said:
And BTW what is a normal power supply?
Computer won't turn on
- Thread starter MarineCorps
- Start date
And BTW what is a normal power supply?
MarineCorps
Explosion!
Specifications:ainwood said:
Type: Micro ATX
Maximum Power: 300W
PFC: No
Overload Protection: 105%~150% of max load
Input Voltage: 115V/220V
Input Frequency Range: 60Hz/50Hz
Input Current: 6A/3A
Output: +3.3V@16.7A, +5V@25A, +12V@16A
Approvals: UL, CE, FCC, NEMCO, TUV
Silly ainwood.
Seeing as my Father is paying for this so long as it's less then $100 I might go with the seperate parts. But seeing as he might object I might go with the case and PSU together. 
What I really need to know(actually my father wants to know ) is: Will upgrading my PSU and case fix the problem of my computer failing to turn on? My guess is yes, but my father probaly would like an opinion other then mine. 
A 300W PSU is adequate, at least for powering the motherboard & beeper. How much it will power beyond that depends on how many drives you have in the machine. I would suggest buying a 450W to give yourself some growing room.
However, the old PSU may be damaged. I have had more ATX models suffer a blown fuse than old AT types. There is a glass tube inside, about an inch long, with metal contacts at each end... if it is blackened, then it has blown.
They cost pennies to replace, but you must not open the PSU to find out unless you accept responsibility for the risk of a powerful electric shock
Did you check my post about shorting the motherboard / insulating spacers?
However, the old PSU may be damaged. I have had more ATX models suffer a blown fuse than old AT types. There is a glass tube inside, about an inch long, with metal contacts at each end... if it is blackened, then it has blown.
They cost pennies to replace, but you must not open the PSU to find out unless you accept responsibility for the risk of a powerful electric shock
Did you check my post about shorting the motherboard / insulating spacers?
MarineCorps
Explosion!
stormbind said:A 300W PSU is adequate, at least for powering the motherboard & beeper.
However, the PSU may be damaged. I have had more ATX models suffer a blown fuse than old AT types. There is a glass tube inside, about an inch long, with metal contacts at each end... if it is blackened, then it has blown.
They cost pennies to replace, but you must not open the PSU to find out unless you accept responsibility for the risk of a powerful electric shock
Did you check my post about shorting the motherboard / insulating spacers?
Yes I did. I think the motherboard is ok since the computer does moniter does turn on(if only for two seconds
) My current PSU isn't an ATX, it's the one that came with the computer 6 years ago
MarineCorps
Explosion!
stormbind said:Erm... the ATX and AT power connectors are a different shape.
How could you possibly connect an AT power supply to an ATX motherboard?
Well the manul told me that the power to the mother board was a small 3 pin long connecter so....
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2001
- Messages
- 30,080
MarineCorps said:
I think it probably will. But why don't you take it to a PC shop, tell them you think your PSU is not powerful enough, get them to recommend on and plug it in to test to plug it in for you? The differential between NewEgg and a local PC shop can't be more then a few dollars on a PSU, and its worth it for the peace of mind.Will upgrading my PSU and case fix the problem of my computer failing to turn on? My guess is yes, but my father probaly would like an opinion other then mine.
MarineCorps
Explosion!
stormbind said:Erm... the ATX and AT power connectors are a different shape.
How could you possibly connect an AT power supply to an ATX motherboard?
Ok I was wrong.
After some further checking I found it is an ATX PSU. My mistake.@ainwood: Well I also need a new case anyways, since the drive bay on my current one can not go in all the way because the CPU is in the way.
And it wouldn't be cheaper to buy in store since there are only two electronic stores close to me, and non had a case+PSU that was cheaper then buying on newegg. Besides this thing has a LCD display. http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc.asp?description=11-126-129&depa=1OH BTW Stormbind, I did check to see if that part had blown but it was not blackened.
Lozzy_Ozzy
Rapture
Well, there could be ONE MAJOR PROBLEM! have you turned it on at the plug?
MarineCorps
Explosion!
Lozzy_Ozzy said:
If you mean did I put the plug in, then yes I did put it in.
Lozzy_Ozzy
Rapture
Another 2 ideas-
1) Does the cable have any damage (seriously)
2) Is the button working, if the light comes on the buttons fine but if not it could be faulty underneath
1) Does the cable have any damage (seriously)
2) Is the button working, if the light comes on the buttons fine but if not it could be faulty underneath
This is one of those guessing games where the end solution is "ooooh! I knew that" kind of.. 
I'm clueless, and still suspect that the board isn't properly insulated
What jumper setting options does this motherboard have? Is the graphics card firmly seated in it's slot? Is there a conflict between built-in graphics and independent card?
I'm clueless, and still suspect that the board isn't properly insulated
What jumper setting options does this motherboard have? Is the graphics card firmly seated in it's slot? Is there a conflict between built-in graphics and independent card?
MarineCorps
Explosion!
stormbind said:This is one of those guessing games where the end solution is "ooooh! I knew that" kind of..
I'm clueless, and still suspect that the board isn't properly insulated
What jumper setting options does this motherboard have? Is the graphics card firmly seated in it's slot? Is there a conflict between built-in graphics and independent card?
There is no independent card. Just the built in one.
And you have the little copper/plastic spacers between motherboard and case? You don't have to use all the screw-holes, but no spacers and no part of the case may touch the solder on the back of the motherboard.
The CPU fan comes on?
The CPU fan comes on?
HAND
Armchair Philosopher
Would be handy if you post some digital pics... Just to have a look at the set up.
I'm running an Athlon 64 3200+, 1 Gig Ram and graphics card on a 350w power supply.. it works fine.
I'm running an Athlon 64 3200+, 1 Gig Ram and graphics card on a 350w power supply.. it works fine.
MarineCorps
Explosion!
stormbind said:
Erm, oh. So thats where those shiny disks were from.
stormbind said:
Nope. No sounds at all.
The case-motherboard spacers are quite large, and normally look like this. They screw into the case, and then the motherboard is screwed to the spacer..
Although, two slightly less common styles are..
If re-using a second-hand case, the spacers might not be in the right place - the position of screw-holes just varies from one motherboard to another. If any conductor (i.e. the case, or a misplaced metal spacer) touches the circuitry/solder on the back of the motherboard then it won't work.
Although, two slightly less common styles are..
If re-using a second-hand case, the spacers might not be in the right place - the position of screw-holes just varies from one motherboard to another. If any conductor (i.e. the case, or a misplaced metal spacer) touches the circuitry/solder on the back of the motherboard then it won't work.
MarineCorps
Explosion!
stormbind said:The case-motherboard spacers are quite large, and normally look like this. They screw into the case, and then the motherboard is screwed to the spacer..
Although, two slightly less common styles are..
If re-using a second-hand case, the spacers might not be in the right place - the position of screw-holes just varies from one motherboard to another. If any conductor (i.e. the case, or a misplaced metal spacer) touches the circuitry/solder on the back of the motherboard then it won't work.
None of those look anything like the two disks I have. Except the first one but those came from the keyboard connecter area not from the back.
And I'm sure the starter switch connecter is set up right. Similar threads
