Saying goodbye to Lima & Miraflores
Day 12 of trip - Thursday May 17th
This would be our last day in Miraflores. Steve was very sick, my left foot hurt a lot, and we were both still fairly tired. The last dozen days or so were very hectic, and while we got some rest in the capital, we didn't really have much energy to go sightseeing. Truthfully there isn't really much else in Lima to see, so we weren't sad to leave the place after only 2 and a half days. There were museums we wanted to see, but we didn't really feel like cabbing halfway across the city just for that. Instead we settled on a relaxing day in Miraflores for our last day there.
I woke up at 10am - Steve at noon. This was the first night on the whole trip so far where we slept that long. We booked our bus to Huaraz, the administrative and "adventure" capital of the region in Peru with the highest mountains; a fairly small town of about 120,000. It was just before tourist season was about to begin, so we weren't expecting it to be very busy. Our original plans called us to head to this place - so that we could do the Santa Cruz Trek through nearby mountains. Obviously that was not happening anymore, but there were more things you could see in the region, including the tallest mountain in Peru, so off we went.
I'm still a bit bummed out over not being able to do the Santa Cruz Trek. The pictures of it look amazing and I sort of want to return to Peru at some point so I can walk it. It probably won't happen for at least 5 years, but I guess we'll see
Either way, we had breakfast, and at some point before Steve woke up I went for a stroll around the neighbourhood and ran into .. the Canadian embassy, which I knew was nearby, but I didn't know that it was so close.
I got in trouble for taking this picture.. A guard started whistling at me (Yeah, with a whistle. That was a thing in Peru - if you were doing something you weren't supposed to, you'd get whistled at). I got the hell out of there asap without attempting to look suspicious. I really had no idea what sort of things could happen to my camera.. Probably nothing, but I figured the guard wouldn't leave his post, so I just left. He probably didn't care about my pictures, but you never know. The look on his face was very.. "WTH dude, you can't do that"
There was also a very Canadian-looking Scotiabank right around the corner. I have never seen Scotiabanks anywhere outside of Canada, so it caught me by surprise. I'd post a photo, but I didn't waste my time taking pictures of a bank.
This is something that was hanging in the lounge/bar at our hostel.
Obviously by that point the game on the 9th of May had already passed, but.. Whoever drew those logos obviously didn't want them erased.
The Champions League Final in Munich was 2 days away! As a Chelsea fan I was excited beyond belief.. This was only the second time in history that my team had made the final.
I didn't think we would win it (had a bit of a crazy & bit lucky run up until that point, beating the best team in the world in the process, etc.), but I was eagerly anticipating the game. We would watch it somewhere in Huaraz.
We checked out of the hostel by 1pm and left our bags there for storage. Decided to spend 7 hours exploring Miraflores and just screwing around, and then taking a cab to the bus terminal. It turned out that one of the girls who was staying in our room (Bjanca from Switzerland) was also taking that very same bus to Huaraz, so we agreed to meet up at the hostel just before 9pm.
First we stopped by a bookstore I noticed the day before - I wanted to buy some reading material for all the bus rides we were about to take, not to mention for the beach, the flights, and whatever else. I always have a novel with me when I travel. I did have one with me this time, but I had finished reading it. It was Iain M. Banks' - The State of the Art. Either way I ended up buying an overpriced copy of Farenheit 451, as I've never read it before, and I couldn't find anything else I wanted that wasn't horribly pricy (yes, by north american standards, all their English books were horribly expensive)
Then we headed towards the ocean to find a place to eat! We were told that the oceanfront had restaurants, so we went looking. Turns our the directions we were given were slightly incorrect - there *were* restaurants by the ocean, just not in the spot that was pointed out to us. The Miraflores oceanside is very well maintained though - there are a lot of parks, walkways, statues, etc. It's all very clean and pleasant and upkept to standards we didn't run into in Peru until then. So we spent some time exploring and it was actually quite nice.
Where Lima meets the ocean there's often a cliff, which was true for Miraflores too. It was the perfect setting for a lazy day, really. That is a statue of a couple making out. You can imagine this park stretching in both directions with a cliff leading downwards toward a beach.
We spotted what was probably a bunch of restaurants down below, but we didn't see an obvious way down yet.. Didn't really feel like climbing downhill either.. Plus a place right on the ocean like that? On a fancy dock? That could get expensive, even in Peru.. especially in Miraflores.
As you can also tell, it was foggy. That fog was there every day in Lima for about half the year IIRC.
Concrete football pitches down below
Eventually we reached a place with restaurants - a large and very modern and fancy looking mall (Larcomar Mall) that was built just at the edge of the cliff. It was the most western/Canadian looking thing that we had ever seen in Peru.
I don't think 95% of the population of Peru had the money to enjoy a place like this, and the number was probably much higher than that..
The restaurants in the mall were things we've never seen in Peru until then: TGI Friday's, Tony Roma's, etc.. We ended up picking a Tony Roma's for lunch and were going to try one of the fancy Peruvian places for dinner. Tony Roma's (and most of the other restaurants, really) had nice ocean/cliff-side patios.
Why Tony Roma's? I've never eaten there until that point, but Steve was rather familiar with the menu. It also felt like home, so.. we decided to eat burgers & ribs. A break away from the Peruvian and a little taste of home
After lunch we checked out some stores, didn't buy anything because it was all overpriced, and ended up finding a movie theatre (in the mall)... and we saw.. Battleship. Yeah, we just wanted a relaxing activity to pass the time with - there were hours to go until our bus ride to Huaraz and we didn't want to head out anywhere far for sightseeing purposes.. So Battleship it was! We went with it because it was the only movie in English, with Spanish subtitles, that was starting at a time that worked for us. We figured it would suck, but it was actually pretty decent, as far as mindless action movies go.
After the movie was done, the sun was already down.
We went to a place @ the mall called Mango's for snacks, beers, and milkshakes. It was supposed to be a place that served fancy Peruvian dishes for a reasonable (to us) price. Here's the smoked salmon/avocado appetizer I ordered. It was really good.. I'm *really* going to miss Peruvian avocados.. The stuff you can buy in Canada just doesn't taste anything like it..
We spent the time enjoying the view, food, drinks, etc.. This was our patio, overlooking the ocean. Can't really see much at this point, but being on a raised patio high above the ocean was very enjoyable, no matter what you could see. It was a very good way to celebrate what we had accomplished up until that point and cap off our stay in Lima & Miraflores.
We met up with Bjanca and took a cab to the bus terminal, where we waited for our bus to arrive. Me and Steve had bought the most luxurious seats on the bus you could. Buses in Peru have at least 2 sections - one is usually for "commoners", and one is a bit more luxurious, behind a door, usually on a different level of the bus (Most of them were 2-story buses)
We did it for safety reasons, mostly. Our seats were behind a door, there was a burly looking guard outside, etc. It was twice as expensive IIRC too, but to us still very cheap. We ended up getting giant seats that you could turn into beds with a 180 degree sleeping surface. Picturing how that might work might not be easy (after all, there was someone sitting behind me), but I am totally not kidding you guys - 180 degree beds were had. The stewardess (yeah, they had a stewardess type person on board) gave out blankets, pillows, snacks, headphones, etc. It was far more luxurious than anything I've ever experienced at Greyhound, which in comparison seems like a bus company with 3rd world standards. It's a bit embarassing really, to compare the Peruvian city-to-city bus service to what we have in Canada. The only downside really was the "each company has their bus terminal somewhere else" thing, which was very annoying.
I mentioned a big burly guard. Right before the bus got on its way, he showed up in our cabin with a camcorder.. He walked up to me and Steve and put the camcorder in my face and reorded for a couple seconds, then did the same to Steve.. then went on to do everyone in our first class cabin (16 people or so I think).. We looked at eachother... What the hell? It was bizarre but we figured it was for safety reasons.. on one hand it made us feel safer, but on the other.. we were a bit uneasy.. and in totally alien circumstances.. that, and we didn't speak the language at all. We felt like fish out of water and everything around us felt very adventurous. We very much so shared "what's going to happen next??" feelings throughout the trip, but especially during weird encounters like that.
It felt weird but it was a very good bus ride. I slept through most of it, but the road to Huaraz is uphill, so the bus was often very shakey and I'd wake up. I didn't dare to look out my window (it was covered with blinds) as I didn't really want to see the steep drops. Huaraz is at an altitude of 3,000m (Lima is right at sea level basically), so I could only imagine what sort of roads we were traversing.
At about 8am we would arrive in Huaraz.