Journey to the End of the World

I will always miss those penguins. :(

I'm sure they felt the same. There are probably little penguins being told right now "I was on the beach the very day that Warpus came," by an old codger penguin. :)

Eventually you will be a mythic figure shrouded in the mists of time.

What? I always tell myself stuff like that when I pet a stray cat.
 
The Martial Glacier

Before I get into our visit to the glacier, you're going to have to see this video.

This guy was on our penguin/sightseeing boat.. He had an Italian posse with him and would every once in a while order more bottles of wine. He sang for long parts of the trip in a for the most part very loud voice.


Link to video.

Jane had the pleasure of becoming acquainted with the man, when he approached her out on the deck.. He tried to talk Italian to her, and told her that he was the father of "Tomassi, the soccer player". Whether this is true or not we have not been able to verify.

After leaving the penguins behind, the boat took us back to Ushuaia. There we regrouped and headed north, towards the Martial Glacier.. which wasn't really much of a glacier these days..

To get there IIRC we took public transit to the north of the city, from where we walked to the ski lift:



Like I said there isn't really much of the glacier left.. or at least it's receded quite a bit in these last couple years..

Nice views, but not much of a glacier there.



This was the most impressive chunk that we saw.



Looking back south towards Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel, and Navarino island, which belongs to Chile.





The walk back down was a bit annoying.. The ski lift had stopped running, so that added to the distance we had to cover.. Which wasn't so bad in itself - and we had planned for it in the first place..



But when we got back to where we were dropped off earlier.. No public transit or taxis or anything else of the sort in sight.. We had to continue walking down the the road, as it snaked its way down closer to the city..

Finally we were back in town, but nowhere really that close to where our hostel was.. Ushuaia is not a large city, but it isn't tiny either.



Long story short we got some tiny empanadas on our way back to base and more filling food later at an Irish pub.

Next day we were due to do some more hiking - in Tierra del Fuego National Park.
 
Long story short we got some tiny empanadas on our way back to base and more filling food later at an Irish pub.

But of course! What could be more natural than an Irish pub in Tierra del Fuego?
 
But of course! What could be more natural than an Irish pub in Tierra del Fuego?

Hey, one of my favorite navy stories revolves around an Italian restaurant in Mexico. Dinner came with "all the margaritas you can drink". Being good sailors we finally got the hint when they were plopping them on our table in a pitcher, warm.
 
But of course! What could be more natural than an Irish pub in Tierra del Fuego?

Irish pubs seem to be everywhere, I have a poster from "The world's highest Irish-owned pub" from Cuzco, Peru.

Hey, one of my favorite navy stories revolves around an Italian restaurant in Mexico. Dinner came with "all the margaritas you can drink". Being good sailors we finally got the hint when they were plopping them on our table in a pitcher, warm.

I vote you expand on this story in full in some sort of a "tell us about something weird and/or funny happened to you" thread. Because now I'm pretty curious..
 
Tierra del Fuego National Park

Tierra del Fuego National Park is the southernmost national park in the world and lies 12km or so west of Ushuaia. After renting a tent from a gentleman going by "Tent's guy", we jumped on a bus and headed towards Ensenada Bay.

Not my map, but the route marked in pen from Ensenada Bay to Roca Lake marks the hike we did on this day of Tuesday December 2nd fairly well.. except that we camped right by that dinner plate somewhere right by the water, likely where that little triangle is.



At the trailhead we found a postoffice. We had "place where you can get your passport stamped somewhere in the park with 'end of the world'" on our radar, but we had no idea where it was.

This was it:



Ensenada Bay





This was our lunch spot, if I remember correctly.





Horses!



Geese!



This might be Lapataia Bay. This is us looking back on Ensenada Bay.





While we were taking a break with our backpacks off, this hawk landed right beside our bags. I think it's a hawk, anyway.



 
I vote you expand on this story in full in some sort of a "tell us about something weird and/or funny happened to you" thread. Because now I'm pretty curious..

Well, absolutely.

But I can only suppose that warm margaritas are unpleasant.

I wouldn't know what a margarita is. Apart from it's some kind of cocktail. Which being a "real" man, rather than a member of the wavy navy, I wouldn't consider worth drinking. Landlubber though I be.

Don't cocktails always come with little umbrellas, and bits of fruit floating in them? So if they were bringing Mr Nothin warm margaritas in a pitcher, did the pitcher come with one of these?

 
Looks like a place that really gets some fierce weather at times.

Yeah, I think that's mainly due to the influence of the "furious fifties" - Wikipedia

I think there is also quite a bit of precipitation.

As a result of all this, you have to be ready for all 4 seasons, even if you go in the summer.

Are those mussels growing on the rocks, third image from bottom?

Right you are

 
First night camping in Tierra del Fuego National Park

The hike to our campsite was fairly pleasant overall, but our backpacks were heavy.. This time around we had everything in them; on our 5 day long hike in Chile we managed to leave a bunch of stuff behind, to be picked up later.. So it was a pleasant walk overall, but still pretty tiring.

So yeah.. lots of breaks! From what I remember, anyway..



Evidence of strong winds..



Eventually the trail heads inland and you reach a protected wetland area (or something similar). At the time we went with "bog".





Finally we arrived at Lago Roca





Birds love the place..





We set up camp fairly close to the lake. If I remember correctly we indulged in some hot chocolate that was on sale at the campground office building place... or alcohol? or food? or cake? Or all of the above. It was a good day.
 
Second day of hiking in Tierra del Fuego National Park

On the first day of camping in this beautiful park we were woken up fairly early by incredibly loud and annoying and to be honest slightly weird bird/duck sounds. This was all in due time fixed by Jane, who stuck her head out the tent and told the birds to shut the F up. I mean yelled. And you know what? It worked!

It was our last full day in the park. After breakfast we spent a couple hours hiking to a lookout point.



Beagle channel:







Fox spotted!



Bird on a stick!



Back at the campsite..


Link to video.

I'm not sure what kind of birds these were, but they were curious looking.




Link to video.



 
Those are curvy beak wading birds!

Well, there is probably one or two more scientific names...
 
Last day of hiking in Tierra del Fuego National Park

The first image I would like to call your attention to is this one from Jane's collection. It should have been posted in the last update.



On our third and final day in Tierra del Fuego National Park we packed up our tent & bags and made our way south to Lapataia Bay.







This spot is the southern terminus of Argentina's highway 3 and the unofficial southern terminus of the Pan-American Highway.



There isn't really much there, but I did lose my friend Steve's really nice pocket knife here. I put it down on the ground while we were eating lunch and just left it there.. at the end of the world.

He wasn't even mad.

This is the last thing we did in the park - Walked around on this walkway:



Then the bus picked us up and we were back in Ushuaia for a night.
 
Journey back home

Friday, December 5th - Bus ride back to Punta Arenas

The bus ride was uneventful and 12 hours long, including the border crossing. Here's some pictures from the ferry crossing over the Strait of Magellan in Chile:





The last things I remember seeing on the Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego





Saturday, December 6th - Flying.. Lots of flying.. - Sunday, December 7th













There are some things I could mention about the flights I suppose.. There were the annoying schoolgirls, who filled up half the plane, flying from Santiago to Miami.. We were exhausted and they were just getting ready to party.. It was as horrible as it sounds.

There was the lack of free wine.. and not much else, really.. but we did get to watch Tropic Thunder. And at 2pm on Sunday we touched down in Toronto and proceeded to consume quality Canadian food court food as soon as we could.

And that was it, our adventure was over. Thanks for reading and thanks for watching!
 
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