Kinboat
Conan the Librarian
First I have a Poser 4 file that has the lights and cameras set up how I use them. The green ball in the center should be right between the feet of any models you add.
Next, I use the Main Camera as the render camera, and I don't move it at all. I use the Auxillary Camera for most of the 'posing' and the others less often.
Once I set up a model designed as I want it I select the 'Body' and turn it on the Y axis to 315 degrees. I create whatever animation I may be working on in that position. Then all I have to do to get the other directions is turn the 'body' of the model 45 degrees each time. First to 0, then 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, and 270. As a bonus I can choose to make a movie instead of rendering each frame at a time. In the Animation tab choose 'make movie' and make sure to change the format to image file instead of AVI format.
I don't really like how Poser renders very small images so I render them large, around 200X200 or larger, then shrink them down in an image editing program. I then paste each frame into the PCX I get out of Flicster... The palette will take some tweeking but you get that problem with any method.
A note... I like to shrink my Human figures just a bit on the Y axis... Something like down to 95%, you'll also need to shrink any conformable objects by that same amount. It may just be my eyes but the people look stretched tall when I reduce the image in size.
Any other questions can be posted here and I'll try to help if I can.
New Setup File and New suggestions...
I've been using this one for all my most recent units (Japanese, and Native American sets). And I feel this gives a closer match to the lighting and shadows of the original game units.
The Work Light is shining on the back of the model to aid in posing but it should be reduced to 0 Intensity before the final rendering.
The Shadow Ball is there to help create blurrier shadows. The way Poser works the larger the area the program needs to calculate shadows for the blurrier the shadows will be... This combined with a reduction of the Shadow map size gets rid of a hard line cast shadow. All this should be set up the way I use it... Moving the ball closer to the Center Pole will sharpen the shadow, farther away will blur it.
The Center Pole is just there as a reference when placing the model and can be removed afterwards.
I've also set it up so that almost all of my units are rendered at 140x140 size... The main camera should be setup that way. Also I no longer render at a larger size... Basicly the distortion was because I was saving in JPG... BMP works much better and you don't get fuzzy borders. Any questions can be posted here and I'd be happy to try to help.
Some tips from CamJH on using this setup with Poser 5
Came across some discrepancies with running the default setup on Poser 5 instead of Poser 4, and thought I'd mention them here. The first is that shadows for the Main Light need to be reduced to .667 from 1.0. This has been brought up before by other people, but I thought I'd include it. The other is that the Blue and Red values under the properties for the Main Light need to be bumped up to 1.333 from 1.0. The magenta for the background, along with all the other colors, become slightly distorted without fixing this.
Next, I use the Main Camera as the render camera, and I don't move it at all. I use the Auxillary Camera for most of the 'posing' and the others less often.
Once I set up a model designed as I want it I select the 'Body' and turn it on the Y axis to 315 degrees. I create whatever animation I may be working on in that position. Then all I have to do to get the other directions is turn the 'body' of the model 45 degrees each time. First to 0, then 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, and 270. As a bonus I can choose to make a movie instead of rendering each frame at a time. In the Animation tab choose 'make movie' and make sure to change the format to image file instead of AVI format.
I don't really like how Poser renders very small images so I render them large, around 200X200 or larger, then shrink them down in an image editing program. I then paste each frame into the PCX I get out of Flicster... The palette will take some tweeking but you get that problem with any method.
A note... I like to shrink my Human figures just a bit on the Y axis... Something like down to 95%, you'll also need to shrink any conformable objects by that same amount. It may just be my eyes but the people look stretched tall when I reduce the image in size.
Any other questions can be posted here and I'll try to help if I can.
New Setup File and New suggestions...
I've been using this one for all my most recent units (Japanese, and Native American sets). And I feel this gives a closer match to the lighting and shadows of the original game units.
The Work Light is shining on the back of the model to aid in posing but it should be reduced to 0 Intensity before the final rendering.
The Shadow Ball is there to help create blurrier shadows. The way Poser works the larger the area the program needs to calculate shadows for the blurrier the shadows will be... This combined with a reduction of the Shadow map size gets rid of a hard line cast shadow. All this should be set up the way I use it... Moving the ball closer to the Center Pole will sharpen the shadow, farther away will blur it.
The Center Pole is just there as a reference when placing the model and can be removed afterwards.
I've also set it up so that almost all of my units are rendered at 140x140 size... The main camera should be setup that way. Also I no longer render at a larger size... Basicly the distortion was because I was saving in JPG... BMP works much better and you don't get fuzzy borders. Any questions can be posted here and I'd be happy to try to help.
Some tips from CamJH on using this setup with Poser 5
Came across some discrepancies with running the default setup on Poser 5 instead of Poser 4, and thought I'd mention them here. The first is that shadows for the Main Light need to be reduced to .667 from 1.0. This has been brought up before by other people, but I thought I'd include it. The other is that the Blue and Red values under the properties for the Main Light need to be bumped up to 1.333 from 1.0. The magenta for the background, along with all the other colors, become slightly distorted without fixing this.