History of Sarajevo (long)

aaminion00

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Intro: I posted a history of Sarajevo earlier, but it was a fairly short one. Since then I've expanded it significantly, with each of the several eras in the city's history having several paragraphs dedicated to them. I didn't plan to post this, but Xen suggested it. I hope it’s an interesting read and that you learn something about my hometown in the process.

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The present day site of Sarajevo has a long and rich history dating back to the Stone Age. There were no people in the region in the Paleolithic era, although the remains of ancient animals have been found, such as those of the ancient bear species, Ursus Spelaeus. Excavation for the period has never been very comprehensive however, and if the Sarajevo area was indeed inhabited during the Paleolithic era, the residents were probably Neanderthals.

During the Neolithic era, the Sarajevo region was home to the Butmir Culture. Specifically, these people found themselves in Butmir, a satellite neighborhood of Ilidža, Sarajevo's chief suburb. The area is rich in flint, essential for making tools and weapons, and was no doubt attractive to ancient man, as was the Željeznica river which flowed by.



The Butmir culture is most famous for their ceramics. Very unique and artistic, it is one of the chief reasons why today the Butmir people are identified as a unique culture. The finds were so sensational when they were made in the late 19th century that the International Congress of Archeologists and Anthropologists was held in Sarajevo the following year. Today, all excavated material can be found in the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The Butmir Culture disappeared around 2400 BC, probably conquered by the next prominent inhabitants of Sarajevo; the Illyrians. The ancient people that considered most of the West Balkans as their homeland had several key settlements in the region, mostly around the river Miljacka and Sarajevo valley. The most prominent of these was ''Debelo Brdo'' (Literally "Fat Hill") in today’s Old Town, where there was an Illyrian fortification during the latter Iron Age. Numerous Illyrian forts also existed in other parts of the city, as well as at the base of Trebević Mountain.

The Illyrians in the Sarajevo region belonged to the tribe ''Daesitates'', a war-like bunch who were the last to resist Roman occupation. Their last revolt occurred in 9 AD, and was crushed by the emperor Tiberius, marking the start of Roman rule in the region.

During Roman rule, Sarajevo was part of the province of Dalmatia. A major Roman road ran through the Miljacka river valley connecting the rich coastal cities of Dalmatia and the Adriatic coast, with Pannonia to the North. The importance of the road can be seen by the numerous Roman artifacts found in the heart of Sarajevo itself over the years. On the left bank of the Miljacka there were once found Roman bricks and an inscription indicating a construction yard and, nearby, a bathhouse. The biggest known settlement in the region however was known as ‘’Aquae S...’’ (Probably Aquae Sulphurae) on top of present day Ilidža.

The Slavs came to Bosnia in the 7th century, but details of their movement and settlement through the country remain a mystery. Some Slavic artifacts remain from the time however, and it is pretty much certain that they settled in the Sarajevo valley, replacing the present Illyrians. ''Katera'', one of the two original Bosnian towns mentioned by Constantine Porphyrogenitus in De Administrando Imperio, was found to the southeast of Sarajevo. However, by the time of the Ottoman occupation there was little settlement left in the region, leaving the history of the Sarajevo region during the middle ages not well understood.

When Bosnia first appeared, it was based on Bosnia proper, which was basically the Bosna river valley, stretching from modern day Zenica to Sarajevo. The area of present day Sarajevo was part of the Bosnian province of Vrhbosna near the traditional center of the kingdom. Though a city called Vrhbosna existed, the exact settlement of Sarajevo at this time is debated. During the high middle ages various documents make note of a place called ‘’Tornik’’ in the region. By all indications however, ‘’Tornik’’ was a very small marketplace surrounded by a proportionally small village not considered very important by Ragusan merchants. Even the local fortress of Hodidjed, was defended by a mere two dozen men when it fell to the Turks.

Others meanwhile say that Vrhbosna was a major city located in the middle of modern day Sarajevo. Indeed, Papal documents say that in 1238, a Cathedral to Saint Paul was built in the city. Considering the importance of Saint Paul, this would have to have been a very important cathedral, yet none are quite sure where it is. Some have speculated that it was located in present day Sarajevo neighborhood Skenderija, as it is said that during construction in the late 19th century, there were found Roman style columns, dating to sometime around the 12th century.

Even disciples of the famous Saint Cyril and Saint Methodius had stopped by the region, establishing a church at Vrelo Bosne. Churches, like cathedrals, aren't built in the middle of nowhere, and especially not by disciples of the saints who brought Christianity to the Slavs. Perhaps a village existed on the outskirts of the city itself, near present day Ilidža, one of the most attractive regions for settlement in the area, which had been significantly populated for pretty much every other period of its history.

Whether this city was indeed located at modern day Sarajevo or not, an important city called Vrhbosna did indeed exist at the time and the region was of great importance. Still, it is somewhat strange that the location of such an important city is unknown. It is not unlikely, that the city may have been destroyed sometime between the 13th century and the Ottoman occupation. It is a well known fact that foreign armies had often made their way to Vrhbosna in wars with Bosnia, perhaps one of them razed the city, leaving it in the condition that the Turks found it in the mid 15th century.

Sarajevo as we know it today was founded by the Ottoman Empire in the 1450s upon conquering the region, with 1461 typically used as the city’s founding date. The first known Ottoman governor of Bosnia, Isa-Beg Išaković, chose the tiny local village of Brodac as a good space for a new city. He exchanged land with its residents (Giving them today's Hrasnica neighborhood in Ilidža), and soon began building his provincial capital as he envisioned it. He quickly built a number of key objects, including a mosque, a closed marketplace, a public bath, a bridge, a hostel, and of course the governor’s castle (‘’Saray’’) which gave the city its present name. The mosque was named ‘’Carova Džamija’’ (the Tsar’s Mosque, the Imperial Mosque) in honor of the Sultan Mehmed II.



With the improvements Sarajevo quickly grew into the largest city in the region. Many Christians converted to Islam at this time, as Ottoman reports from the period often tell of residents with Muslim names but of Christian named fathers, such as "Mehmed, son of Ivan". Meanwhile, an Orthodox population first appeared in Sarajevo at this time, as the Orthodox Church was built. A colony of Ragusan merchants also appeared in Sarajevo at this time. Soon after, in the early 16th century, the Sarajevo Haggadah came to Sarajevo along with Sephardic Jewish refugees from Andalusia. For the first time in its history, Sarajevo was the city of four religions. The Jewish population made note of this, naming the city "The European Jerusalem"

Under the wise leadership of people such as Gazi Husrev-beg (the city’s greatest donor who built most of what is now the Old Town) Sarajevo grew at a rapid rate. Sarajevo became known for its large marketplace and numerous mosques, which by the middle of the 16th century were over a hundred in number. Numerous other buildings appeared, including religious schools, such as the school of Sufi philosophy. Gazi Husrev-Beg himself established a number of buildings named in his honor, such as the Sarajevo library which, in its prime, was in the same category as the Madrassa of Beyazid II.

Gazi Husrev-Beg also built the city's clock tower (Sahat Kula). Sarajevo became one of the most advanced cities in Europe. It had its own water system, clock tower, bathhouses, and schools. In a time when education was merely for the wealthy, and most Europeans considered baths to be unhealthy, Sarayliyas (Sa-ray-lee-yas, residents of Sarajevo) were among the cleanest and most culturally advanced commoners on the continent. A famous Sarajevan poet of the time wrote, ''"There it seems to man that he can live for a long time, for in a thousand places in Sarajevo flows water from the well of longevity"''.

At its height, Sarajevo was the biggest and most important Ottoman city in the Balkans after Istanbul itself. By 1660, the population of Sarajevo was estimated to be over 80,000. Comparatively, Belgrade in 1838 had a mere 12,963 inhabitants, and Zagreb as late as 1851 had a lowly 14,000 people. If Sarajevo's fortune would have prevailed until 1700, it would have been the 10th biggest city in Europe. Had its population continued to grow significantly during that period of time, it would have likely been the 7th largest, just under Rome and Milan.

This period of early Ottoman rule will be long remembered as Sarajevo's golden age. The 16th century was its peak, when nearly the whole city area (that would last until the late 19th century) was built. During the 17th century, Sarajevo didn't expand, although its population continued to grow. Its residents lived luxuriously, and Sarajevo was the richest city in the West Balkans after Dubrovnik. However the 1600s also brought the start of the decline of the Ottoman Empire. With the defeats at Vienna, the empire grew weaker, and along with the empire as a whole did its various regions. Although Sarajevo would remain prosperous until the very end of the 17th century, the latter half of it proved to be the beginning of the end.
 
The '''Ottoman history of Sarajevo''' can easily be split into two halves. One is the city's golden age, the early Ottoman era, lasting from 1521 to 1697. The other is the late Ottoman era, from 1697 to 1878, which saw the decline of the empire, the city, and a number of disasters.

It is no coincidence that the beginning of the late Ottoman era in Sarajevo's history begins with the end of the Austro-Ottoman War. Following the failure at the Battle of Vienna in 1683, the western reaches of the empire were suspect to numerous raids. It was the raid of 1697 by Eugene of Savoy that would have the biggest impact. Brushing aside weak and unorganized defenses, Eugene was able to enter Sarajevo with ease. There, he pillaged the city like it had never been pillaged before, and once he was through with this he set the city to the torch.

Sarajevo was desolated by this attack. Very few structures survived the flames, and these were only ones built out of stone or subject to rare circumstance. The citizens of Sarajevo at that point had to start rebuilding their city from square one, not just structurally, but culturally and politically as well. By then, the seat of Bosnian government had already been transferred to Travnik, and the fire made the situation no better. For ten years between 1747 and 1757, the city even experienced anarchy.

If the city was no longer what it used to be structure wise, its intellectualism didn't suffer the slightest. In fact, the 18th century held many of Sarajevo's great thinkers, such as Mehmed Mejlija Guranij and Mula Mustafa Bašeskija. Significant libraries, schools, and mosques were built, as well as significant new fortifications.

The late 1700s however were not very good times. In 1788 another fire raged through Sarajevo, and this came only 5 years after an outbreak of plague. By the early 19th century, things did not get much better as Serbia gained its independence from the Ottoman Empire, creating a wedge between Sarajevo and Istanbul. This would all lead to the revolt of Bosniak national hero, Hussein Kapetan Gradašćević.

Demanding Bosnian independence from the Turks, Hussein Kapetan Gradašćević fought several battles around Bosnia. The last and ultimately most significant was the Battle of Sarajevo Field where Hussein Kapetan Gradašćević was betrayed by a fellow Bosniak and lost a hard fought battle. There he uttered his famous words "This is the last day of our freedom". For the next several decades no major developments occurred, as Sarajevo withered away in the sick man of Europe.

In 1878, the Treaty of Berlin officially gave Bosnia and Herzegovina to Austria-Hungary. Although in the long run it is generally agreed that this was very beneficial to the country, you wouldn't have known it from the reaction of Sarajevo residents that year. A nation wide revolt was initiated from the city, and when Austrian troops entered it they were quickly welcomed by gunfire "from every house, from every window, from every doorway.. even women were taking part". However, the Austrian occupation of the country was swift, and Sarajevo soon found itself part of the Habsburg realms.

The Habsburg period of Sarajevo's history is characterized by industrialization, development, westernization, and political and social change. The political change came first, as the Austrians did away with the outdated Ottoman political divisions of the city and put in place the typical Austrian system, centered on major roads.

Meanwhile, architects and engineers who endeavored to rebuild Sarajevo as a modern European capital rushed to the city. They were unexpectedly aided by a fire that burned down a large part of the central city area (''čaršija''). This has resulted in a unique blend of the remaining Ottoman city market and contemporary western architecture. For the first time in centuries, the city significantly expanded outside its traditional borders. Much of today's Centar Municipality was constructed during this time.

Architecture in Sarajevo quickly developed into a wide range of styles and buildings. The Cathedral of Jesus' Heart was built at this time, using elements of neo-gothic and Romanesque architecture. The National Museum, Sarajevo brewery, and City Hall were also constructed at this time.



Part of a far more modern and advanced nation than the Ottoman Empire, Sarajevo was quickly westernized and adapted to the standards of the age. A western education system was installed at this time, and Sarajevo's inhabitants first started writing in Latin script. In an experimental mood, Austrian officials made Sarajevo the first city in Europe to have a tramway. By 1910, Sarajevo had some 51,919 people.



The most famous and remembered event in the history of Habsburg Sarajevo, and perhaps all of Sarajevo's history, is the Assassination in Sarajevo. Young Serb extremist, Gavrilo Princip, shot and killed Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria-Hungary, in their visit to the city, causing World War I. By the time the Great War was over, so was Sarajevo's time in Austria-Hungary, as the city and country entered a new period of their history.

After World War I Sarajevo became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Though it held some political importance, as the center of first the Bosnian region and then the Drinska Banovina, it was not treated with the same attention or considered as significant as it was in the past. Outside of today's national bank of Bosnia and Herzegovina, virtually no significant contributions to the city were made during this period.

During World War II the Kingdom of Yugoslavia put up a very inadequate defense. Following a German bombing campaign, Sarajevo was conquered by the Ustase Croatian fascist puppet state. Many of the city's Jews were taken at this time and killed in the holocaust bringing a sad end to the prominence of Sarajevo's Jewish community. In 1941 the atrocities committed by the Ustase were strongly condemned by groups of Sarajevo's citizens.

The Sarajevo resistance was led by a NLA Partisan named "Walter" Perić. Legend has it that when a new German officer came to Sarajevo and was assigned to find Walter, he asked his subordinate to show him Walter. The man took the officer to the top of a hill overlooking the city and said "See this city?", "Das Ist Valter". Walter was killed in the fighting on the day of Sarajevo's liberation, June 4 1945. He has since become something of a city icon.

Following the liberation, Sarajevo was the capital of the republic of Bosnia within the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. The communists invested heavily in Sarajevo, building many new residential blocks in Novi Grad Municipality and Novo Sarajevo Municipality, while simultaneously developing the city's industry and transforming Sarajevo once again into one of the Balkans' chief cities. From a post-war population of 115,000, by the end of Yugoslavia Sarajevo had 429,672 people.

The crowning moment of Sarajevo’s time in Socialist Yugoslavia was the 1984 Winter Olympics. Sarajevo beat out Sapporo, Japan; and Falun/Göteborg, Sweden for the privilege. They are widely regarded as among the most successful winter Olympic Games in history. They were followed by an immense boom in tourism, making the 1980s one of the city's best decades in a long time.

The history of modern Sarajevo begins with the declaration of independence of Bosnia and Herzegovina, from Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia The city becomes the capital of the new state, as the local division of the Yugoslav People's Army establishes itself on the surrounding mountains. That day, massive peace protests take place. In the midst of the largest one, a protestor named Suada Dilberović is shot by unidentified gunmen from a nearby skyscraper.

The following three years found Sarajevo being the center of the longest siege in the history of modern warfare (See: Siege of Sarajevo). The city was held without electricity, heating, water, and medical supplies. During this whole time, the surrounding Serb forces shelled the city. An average of 329 shell impacts occurred per day, with a high of 3,777 shell impacts on July 22, 1993.

Asides from the economic and political structures that were destroyed, the besieger targeted numerous cultural sites. Thus places such as the Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque, Cathedral of Jesus' Heart, and the Jewish cemetery were damaged, while places like the old City Hall and the Olympic museum were completely destroyed.

For foreigners an event that defined the cultural objectives of the besiegers occurred during the night of August 25, 1992, the intentional shelling and utter destruction with incendiary shells of the irreplaceable Bosnia National and University Library, the central repository of Bosnian written culture, and a major cultural center of all the Balkans. Among the losses were about 700 manuscripts and incunabula and a unique collection of Bosnian serial publications, some from the middle of the 19th century Bosnian cultural revival. Libraries all over the world cooperated afterwards to restore some of the lost heritage, through donations and e-texts, rebuilding the Library in cyberspace.



It is estimated that 12,000 people were killed and another 50,000 wounded during the course of the siege. Through all this time however, the enemy forces were unable to decisively capture the city thanks to the heroic defense of the government army inside it. Following the Dayton Accords and a period of stabilization, the Bosnian government declared the siege officially over on February 29, 1996.

The next several years were a period of heavy reconstruction. During the siege, nearly every building in the city was damaged. Ruins were present throughout the city, and bullet holes were very common. Land mines were also located in the surroundings.

Thanks to foreign aid and domestic dedication, the city began a slow path to recovery. By 2003, there were practically no ruins in the city and bullet holes had become a rarity. Sarajevo was hosting numerous international events once again, such as the extremely successful Sarajevo Film Festival, and launched bids to hold the Winter Olympic Games in the city in the not so distant future.

Today Sarajevo is one of the fastest developing cities in the region. Various new modern buildings are being built, significantly the Bosmal City Center, which upon completion will be the tallest skyscraper in the Balkans. A new highway was recently completed between Sarajevo and the city of Visoko. The near-future for Sarajevo is hoped to hold continued development of the city, including construction of impressive modern buildings and population growth. If current growth trends continue, the Sarajevo metropolitan area should return to its pre-war population by 2020, with the city following soon after. At its current pace, Sarajevo won’t surpass the million resident mark until the second half of the 21st century. The most widely accepted and pursued goal is for the city to hold the Winter Olympics in 2014, and if that bid fails perhaps in 2018 or 2022.

 
Sorry if the pictures don't fit exactly... they weren't part of the original text (obviously), I was just trying to find some in a hurry.
 
Now, this is what I called an article. :goodjob:

I'll change the link in the List to this expanded one. ;)
 
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