Know how to change a 110V, 1 hp motor to 220V?

[CavLancer]

If so, share it with me please. Building a dumbwaiter with a hoist I shipped from the US and its 110. If I can't switch it over I'll have to dedicate and leave on a transformer which wastes energy.

This is it...

http://www.harborfreight.com/880-lb-electric-hoist-44006.html

In that configuration its capable of 440 lbs. With the line doubled, 880 lbs. Since the run of the line will be almost 40ft I can't double it so it will be a 440 lb capable dumbwaiter which is ample...110V though, like to know how to change that.

 

[kochman]

If so, share it with me please. Building a dumbwaiter with a hoist I shipped from the US and its 110. If I can't switch it over I'll have to dedicate and leave on a transformer which wastes energy.

This is it...

http://www.harborfreight.com/880-lb-electric-hoist-44006.html

In that configuration its capable of 440 lbs. With the line doubled, 880 lbs. Since the run of the line will be almost 40ft I can't double it so it will be a 440 lb capable dumbwaiter which is ample...110V though, like to know how to change that.

You'd have to install a new power supply. Whatever part is the 110v, swap it out.
It would probably save you some energy, but at what cost? If this is a long term thing...

Better answer... return hoist, buy hoist locally in 220... or contact original hoist seller and see if they offer 220? In the future, try to get everything you can in dual voltage...

I really wish the US would switch or Europe would switch... and let's make all outlets the same too... I had 4 different types of power outlets in Italy (none compatible with American style of course)... jeez.

 

[innonimatu]

I really wish the US would switch or Europe would switch... and let's make all outlets the same too... I had 4 different types of power outlets in Italy (none compatible with American style of course)... jeez.

Why do you hate the free market?

 

[peter grimes]

[QUOTE-CavLancer]I'll have to dedicate and leave on a transformer which wastes energy. [/QUOTE]

You could simply have a stepped-down circuit that's only active when the user engages the dumbwaiter. You'd have to get a couple of relays for the transformer circuit, of course, but it won't be drawing power 24/7.

Alternatively, you *could* tap one leg of your electric supply... at least I *think* you could. Your plus have 3 conductors, right? If so, you should have 2 phase and 1 ground... I *think*. If I'm right (and PLEASE ask a professional!!) you'd only tap one phase and the ground.

Bear in mind I'm not an electrician - I know enough about the limitations of my understanding to hire / consult a professional in these cases.

...like when I wanted to run a 110V dust collector from the same switch that engages my shop's 220V table saw. I called in a licensed tech from the vendor to set it up. But that's me.

On a side note we used this exact same winch in our old warehouse. The landlord didn't install it properly and the wire would slide off the spool constantly. It was not at all appropriate for what we needed. It was slung from a dolly running along an I-Beam so that we could sling furniture from it, raise it from our loading dock to our storage on the second level, and then pull the contraption over the balcony lip, then lower the load onto the balcony floor. This winch needs to be hung in a fixed manner - there can't be any knuckles or pivots, so DON'T use shackles (like our idiot did). The winch body will torque around the spool when you start and stop it. And you'll need to make sure it's secure front to back (along the winch motor axis), otherwise you get the de-spooling problem we had.

EDIT: you'll also have to check the duty cycle and frequency. If your electric isn't 60Hz then it's going to run at a slower RPM (and less torque). This means that it'll take longer to move a load a given distance, which might impact your duty cycle limitations. Just some things to consider when engineering this.

EDIT2:
you might consider dropping your current plans for an automotive winch (12V) run off a car battery and re-charged from a dedicated solar collector. Advantage here is many RV supply houses carry this stuff so it's all off-the-shelf / plug & play style. Just a thought

 

[CavLancer]

Well thanks everyone for your thoughts on the motor and peter grimes to your experiences with it. It will be securely fastened and unmoving.

I heard a long time ago of a way to switch most motors from 110 to 220 withing the motor itself, but I guess not or perhaps no one has heard of it.

 

[peter grimes]

I heard a long time ago of a way to switch most motors from 110 to 220 withing the motor itself, but I guess not or perhaps no one has heard of it.

I'm pretty sure this is what the the tech did to my dust collector. But I've tried to switch it back without success. When I open the case up I can't see anything obvious that he might have done. And since I have a healthy respect for electricity, I'm not willing to just guess

 

[Cutlass]

Alternatively, you *could* tap one leg of your electric supply... at least I *think* you could. Your plus have 3 conductors, right? If so, you should have 2 phase and 1 ground... I *think*. If I'm right (and PLEASE ask a professional!!) you'd only tap one phase and the ground.

That would depend on the wiring. US wiring of 220 volt is 2 hot 110 wires and a ground. But You would have to check if the locals did that. I think it not likely. So in the US you could do that trick.

 

[uppi]

That would depend on the wiring. US wiring of 220 volt is 2 hot 110 wires and a ground. But You would have to check if the locals did that. I think it not likely. So in the US you could do that trick.

In a country with a 220V standard, there is no reason to do the wiring like this. So the wiring is usually 1 hot wire, neutral and ground. There is no easy way to get 110V from that.

Countries which do have 220V wiring like this, usually have also 110V outlets, as that is the only reason why one would do the wiring that way. So this trick would only work, where it is useless.


I looked at the link, and the motor is described as remote controlled. This means it has to contain electronics to accept command from the remote control and a power supply to power those circuits with low-voltage DC current. If that power supply is designed for 110V only, there is no way you can convert that motor without exchanging that power supply.