Started out with a really nice river + coastal capital and didn't have too much trouble with Barbarians. I also managed to grab Mt Kailash (I think? whichever one it is that gives only Faith) with my third city, which gave me enough Faith to found my religion before anyone else. After settling my 4th city and getting some of my infrastructure up (I managed Pyramids, which combined with Progress gave me super fast workers that could chop a forest in one turn, which I abused to boost my early production as much as possible), I found that I was basically in the corner of the map with my neighbors being Greece to the north, Russia to the northwest, and China to the west. Greece was thankfully mostly blocked off by mountains with a 1-tile pass and a city-state, which I made sure to get allied with. In a surprising move, Greece used a Great Diplomat to steal the City State and then attacked me through the mountain pass and city state territory. After fending him off, albeit with a bunch of pillaged tiles, he went for my other city bordering his territory, which I had luckily still kept some defense in. At this point, I noticed he had yet to build Walls in the city on his side of the mountain pass, and I had just unlocked Trebuchets, so I was able to take it without much trouble and then get an advantageous peace deal, I wasn't planning on doing too much warmongering in this game.
Meanwhile, I enhanced my religion with Cathedrals, the founder belief that boosts WLTKD, Inspiration, and Ritual, which I'd been wanting to try for awhile. Sadly, the war had prevented me from spreading my religion to Greece and Russia had taken advantage of that to spread their religion instead, but I was still able to spread it to China and Indonesia, which was enough to get me Reformed with One World, One Religion. I was also able to get a Salt monopoly which is probably the single best Luxury monopoly in the game and gave me enough growth to work a lot of specialist slots I wouldn't have otherwise been able to. Between that, working on CS alliances, and Hanses, my empire was doing great. Every single other civ except China ended up going to at least one war, and there was no real snowball AI, I was able to grab a lot of wonders with the only real competition being Poland. With One World, One Religion I was also able to build up a large army of missionaries and carpet bomb Poland and Greece with them, giving them my religion instead. Thanks to Ritual, Russia eventually got overwhelmed by passive pressure and her original religion got wiped out as well.
Sadly, during one of the many wars, Indonesia took Persia's holy city, bought 3 great prophets, and then removed my religion (and then promptly lost said holy city to Russia). China also took advantage of mutual open borders in order to sneak a Settler to the very corner of the map, which I'd been planning to settle once Pioneers became available. Poland managed to beat me to an Ideology by a mere 5 turns and went for Autocracy, after which he ended our long friendship. China also went from DoF to denouncing for no clear reason, though I was able to maintain DoF with Indonesia.
I also pulled what I've dubbed the Indiana Jones strategy, in which I rush Archaeology and build a bunch of Archaeologists, send them to someone who you can get Open Borders with but who doesn't like you, and activate them all at the same time (compensating for time it'll take to clear forest, or just ignoring those) and then promise to not steal anything else, giving you 2-5 artifacts for only a moderate diplomatic penalty.
At this point, I was looking to be coasting to a victory, but after conquering Greece and Persia, Russia decided I was next. I hadn't been slacking too much on army (my strength was ~3000 to Russia's ~8000) and I had two advantages in Russia having between 10-20 negative happiness and Himeji Castle (though the city being attacked didn't have enough territory for the latter to do much, unfortunately). She also got a good surround angle with Artillery via Open Borders with China and had a large number of Cossacks swarming in, and all of the terrain off the one road to the city was rough, meaning that I was steadily losing ground despite buying units every turn because I couldn't reinforce fast enough. The city got flipped several times with a lot of unit losses on both sides, though I kept it in the end. On the other side of the battle, I was actually able to take Athens, which was a nice plus (though it actually hurt me at the time, reducing Russia's unhappiness by a good chunk and giving her units the Resistance buff).
Despite taking one of her cities and reducing Russia's military score down to on par with mine, I somehow had -10 warscore, but she finally started talking peace after I got the 6 Foreign Legions from Freedom and was a couple turns away from Panzers, and I decided to accept. After that, I was just waiting for the victory to happen. I was originally going for Diplomatic victory and had something ridiculous like 50 WC votes to everyone else's 5-10 and had of course passed World Ideology, but I'd also picked up the lv 3 +Tourism tenant from Freedom and the Culture Victory came first (I was in Atomic era at the time, but I think most of the world was still in Modern or earlier which isn't enough for the Global Hegemony to trigger, I think? Not 100% sure). Ended up winning Culture Victory on turn 355, I think.
conclusions: Germany is great, Artifact stealing and Salt's monopoly bonus need a nerf, this post came out a lot longer than I was expecting
empire just before endgame: