How the hell does one get into a PBEM game?

Actually, no, not once the game gets started. You don't really ever have to come back here. Many games (especially with lots of players) create threads to help track where the game is, or to discuss issues, but it really isn't necessary.
 
Or you can check out the "Civver Looking For PBEM Game..." thread and send a PM to the last 3 or 4 people that posted there.

By the way, there was another Vanilla game that just started: http://forums.civfanatics.com/showthread.php?t=259862. They had been looking for more players for a week or two. Had you posted in their started thread (http://forums.civfanatics.com/showthread.php?t=256610), I'm sure you could have been in this game.

Finally, check out the "Civ4 PBEM Replacement Players Hall". You can take over for someone else that has to drop out if you're open to that.
 
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