Seriously, though, the early game is really awesome. You can be as agressive as you like, go for an early religion or a strong science right from the start, then you plan out your eurekas and inspirations to get the things you need the most for your empires, you spam settlers to secure your borders and expand, you rush the first governments to unlocks more policies, you try to do some quests for some juicy envoys, all of that is incredibly satisfying. Then the midgame kicks in and you have too many policies you don't even know how to choose, you're lost in the district clusterfudg, and you don't know what to do.
Except if I'm trying to conquer the world or push for a religious victory, the midgame is a bit boring. But the early game is gorgeous.