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What size and what map

depends.

personaly I like smaller maps, also for pc performace.
 
Pangaea (solid shores) , Standard or Large. Low sea level for more land.
 
A guide to a selection of the best maps (imo) is in this thread

i usually play
large fractal maps
high sea level
~15 civs
 
The old classic: Normal speed Standard Pangaea (choose natural coastline for island-based fun):

7 players in total, meet everyone pretty quickly and when they threaten you it might actually be worth considering their demands, as their stack of macemen is only a few turns march away. Lots of opportunity for war, and a domination/conquest victory is feasible and fun without having to worry about taking down well defended cities overseas. For similar reasons a Lakes map is violent fun.

If you prefer less war and more economic development then try more water based maps. I've played with Hemispheres and Big_and_Small since Beyond The Sword came out and they are fun maps for sure, with unpredictable landmasses; far more interesting than a Continents map, and Custom Continents isn't even worth considering.

I also strongly recommend Archipelago, but only with snaky continents and low sea level settings - you get quite a bit of land arranged in weird chunky snaky shapes, and you can probably talk to all the AIs pretty early by hugging the coastline. Good fun map!

If you play any maps larger than Standard size you would probably want to also have a slower game speed, because of the distances your units will have to travel. Also, larger maps make military victories much harder to achieve, so if you prefer researching your way to a space victory, that might be a good idea.
 
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