Update: (I'm sure there's people out there who care
)
I've called the airline and talked to some guy with a thick Spanish accent. Our tickets are good, we have 2 seats reserved on a confirmed flight. The one thing is - we MIGHT have to pay a "gringo tax" of $170 pp or so - according to some people on Lonely Planet forums.. Some say the gringo tax is gone, some say it isn't.. it's really hard to figure out what the hell is going on with flights from Lima to Peru. It's one of the more popular destinations in South America (#1 tourist destination apparently), so it's understandable they want to make some money off that.. but yeah, it's very hard to get information and things seem to change rather quickly.
So I really have no idea. I asked the guy on the phone and he either didn't understand my question, was offended by it, or honestly didn't know. He said the only extra fees we'll have to pay is if we change the flight. At this point I won't care too much if we're slapped with an extra $170US fee per person.. heck.. we paid $15 (after taxes) for the flight, each.
I haven't booked the flight back to Lima yet.. I found a "cheap" flight for $120 pp after tax through Star Peru that def. does not have the gringo tax (at least I'm 80% sure it doesn't). So I'll probably end up booking that, I don't want to have to go from travel agency to airline to whoever trying to find a good deal. When I'm there I want to explore, not look for bargain plane tickets.
Prices for May 15th (when we'd probably want to return to Lima) have been going up and up every day and some return flights are even going for $500 (per person!). I went to a travel agency here yesterday and they quoted me at $280 each way pp.
With that in mind - $15 one way, $120 return, is a bargain. $15+$170 one way, $120 return would also be pretty good, considering.
So as soon as my travelling buddy gets back to me I'm probably booking that flight back on the 15th for $120 each.. hopefully that deal is still there! It will give us 3 days to acclimatize and 1 extra day after we finish the Salkantay hike & exploration of Machu Picchu.. I'm trying to book a bus to Huaraz (for our second hike) out of Lima a couple hours after we land there, but Peruvian bus companies have crappy websites. Apparently it's possible but all the buses I have found so far leave at 10pm or so. I want something that leaves at 3-4pm and gets there at around midnight.. or earlier. that would be ideal.
My friend Monika still isn't sure if she can go, so I'm booking all this stuff without her in mind. I hope she can go! She's kinda hot