Computer Questions Not Worth Their Own Thread II

SpeedFan works for me. I don't know how accurate it is, but how accurate do you need it? I know when it gets to a certain temp to shut down for a bit.
 
If you have a C2D or newer, RealTemp works. But with any program you have to calibrate, and even then, its only as accurate as the chip sensor.
The most accurate temps would come from a probe embedded right over the center of the die in the heatspreader, but that requires some precision milling.

@Turner: if your cpu gets to temps high enough that you need to shut it down, you may want to look into cleaning out the dust and changing the TIM. A CPU should not be hitting 80C on load, even if you're using the crappy OEM heatsink.
 
I was Googling for error-checking blank discs. You know, as in testing it before you burn so you don't waste time.

Mostly I got a) checkdisk on a hard drive b) reviews of various media c) how to check discs that already have data on them d) problems using blank CDs (If I missed anything important please linky)

The only really useful thing I really got was here which says (if you're too lazy to click on links)
1) Nero CD-DVD Speed can do this (but it didn't work for the OP)
2) Something called "Old Record Now Max" could do it.
3) One person says that it actually doesn't do anything.

So here's my questions:
1) Is it true there's no way of testing? The thread sorta died after the question.
2) Is there a (free) program which can do what I'm asking?

EDIT: Realized I missed one. This says something about some drives doing a "quality scan"

'NOTHER EDIT: Found this. Not sure if it's about blank CDs or the drive itself.
 
You cant really test a blank disc because its got no data on it. No computer program will be able to test for integrity. Scratches also are not a good indicator since during a burn, the pits may completely miss or be written in right over the scratches, resulting in no error.

Either way, you cant be so poor that you can afford cd's and a computer to burn them with, but at the same time no spare blanks.
 
Well I do have a lot of CDs but my mom dropped the spindle and they all scattered on the floor. So I'm not quite sure which ones are fine or not.
 
CDRs are cheap. Even DVD-Rs are cheap now.

@GB - Once again I post in my shorthand..... for me, shutting down is the same as putting the laptop down and doing something else for a while. Currently, SF is reporting about 140°F for a core temp. I have torn it down to the heat sink and removed and blew it out with CA. Didn't help much on the temps, which aren't that bad as far as I'm concerned, but it does cool down quicker.
 
Alright Turner. All I was saying is that if you're shutting down because you're worried about temps, you have a problem (well, your computer does at least.)

60C is about as high as I'd be comfortable with at full load, but you can go up to 75C with no adverse effects.
 
I don't think it gets much higher than 60°C. Usually it peaks around 55ish. The only thing that really bothers me with that is it's too warm in my lap.
 
I read Taiyo-Yuden discs are the best type. However when I'm in a store the labels on the spindkes don't say anything about what kind of discs they are. Google says its printed on the disc itself but I'd rather not get arrested for opening up the package before purchasing it. So what do I do?

I remember finding a list of discs online but it was outdated and I'm having difficulties finding it again. (Main problem is when I google "taiyo yuden discs" or "list of taiyo-yuden media or whatever I get a bunch of online stores). I found this but I'm not sure about how reliable it is. Also I got this but I don't see Canada on the list.

Also: I accidentally plugged some headphones into the microphone jack (the cables were tangled up.) It still worked. This is freaky.
 
Turner said:
I don't think it gets much higher than 60°C. Usually it peaks around 55ish. The only thing that really bothers me with that is it's too warm in my lap.
Click to expand...

The joys of laptops no?

Aimee: your microphone and speaker cables are not very well insulated, as there seems to be a lot of crosstalk on them.
 
I had a Toshiba M5 for a while. That puppy would peak around 80°C.

I didn't keep it for very long.
 
On various freeware sites how is the "size" determined? By the installer size or the program folder when installed? I tried googling it and got some really random stuff.

Sometimes when googling I end up with about a dozen random characters in the google search. For example, something like this:
&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B6_____enCA354CA354&ie=UTF-8
Click to expand...
What are these and other than manually editing is there a way to remove them when linking?
 
Thats the referral link. It contains ( from what I can tell ) your browser client (Firefox), your language is english, and the page is UTF-8 encoded. The CA354CA354 is probably additional encoding to the fact that you're in Canada.

The most surefire way would be to clear cookies and not be logged into your google account when you're searching. Other than that, just manually remove them.
 
Thanks.

Another question: I have some rechargable batteries. I recharged them overnight yet when I put them in my portable CD player, the only thing the player did was flash on the little LCD screen and it didn't even attempt to play the disc. These are things I know:
1) The batteries are about 2 years old. I got them for Christmas in 2007.
2) I also had newer batteries in the charger with them at the same time. (Don't worry, same brand.) When I put the newer batteries in, they did work.
3) Normally, I don't recharge the batteries until they run out completely on the CD player. (When the low-battery indicator starts flashing, I unplug the headphones and let it run out. Reason I unplug is because it always seems to run out in the middle of a song.)

So, can I safely say the batteries are now dead?

'Nother thing. A couple weeks ago I was using a little device with a coin-battery. It was cold out, and the device stopped working. So I took the battery out, rubbed it a bit with my hands, and popped it back in. It worked. Pretty neat.

EDIT: Another question. I want to look up stuff on why CRT monitors "wobble" when you turn on other devices, but I don't know the name for it. What's it called?
 
1. If you have a voltimeter, recharge the battery for the proper time (overnight may be too long, its probably closer to 4 hours) and test its output voltage. If its really low even after it has been recharged, its pretty well dead. Make sure you dispose of the batteries properly ( a recycling center that processes batteries, not just tossing it in the garbage)
2. Heat affects the operation of batteries. If it gets too cold, their chemical components may stop reacting properly, if at all.
3. Its called an electromagnetic field. Ever put a magnet close to a CRT and noticed how its wavy and distorted? Its the same principle with the wobble. A device turning on sends out an EM pulse that, while very weak, can cause a crt to wobble for a bit.
 
I have a voltmeter. But not a comprehensive manual for it. I tried hunting one up once without luck. It's been 25 years since I had a course that went over the symbols, and I've forgotten them. So does anyone have a list of or a site for learning to set the dial on the thing for the different measurements?
 
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