So the cab fan of my truck doesn't work as it should.
I tried to fix it.. but now my indicators don't work either.. which is a much bigger issue!
I tried to fix it.. but now my indicators don't work either.. which is a much bigger issue!
What have you repaired lately?
- Thread starter Quintillus
- Start date
Moff Jerjerrod
Deity
^Have you tried checking the fusebox? Hopefully it's just a blown fuse that is preventing your indicator lights from flashing.
Worst repair ever. Why use a wood screw to fix on a number plate? Duct tape is the only answer to such problems. If you try and use something, and it clearly does not work and just leaves it more dangerous, why not remove said something?
Spoiler How not to attach a number plate :
That is spectacular. Your handiwork?
No. I would not have had the guts to post it, and I would not have missed the opportunity to get out the duct tape.
Fuse was in the wrong slot! Thanks!!
Moff Jerjerrod
Deity
Awesome! I'm glad it was a simple fix and that you found it.
Gori the Grey
The Poster
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2009
- Messages
- 13,450
Today I fixed a pair of dollar-store reading classes.
The arms break off after not too much time, because they're cheap.
I decided to ask, "What would it involve to fix this?" Here's what I settled on.
I have a roll of thin sheet metal. I cut off a half-inch strip. The place I had to work with at the edge where the glasses part meets the arm was just 1/4 inch, so I cut away 1/8 inch notches at one end of my strip to make a 1/4 inch tab on a strip of metal that, again, for most of its length was 1/2 inch wide. I folded this tab over for greater strength. Then I bent it at a 90 degree angle to the remainder of the strip. The little side is going to go on that little corner, just past the far edge of the lens, where the glasses meet the arm. The long side is going to go down the arm.
I had a package of #4 screws, 1/2 inch in length. #2 would probably have been better, but #4 was was what I had. I found my slim drill bit that's right for that size screw, and drilled two holes through my tab (I only ended up using one of them, but I thought I would need two). I lined up my tab with that little corner and drilled into the frame of the glasses. Then I drove a screw into that to secure the tab to the corner of the glasses. I needed to adjust to one size bigger drill bit because I thought, as I was driving the screw in, that it might split the plastic on the corner.
I did the same on the arm, about an inch and a half down the strip of metal and down the arm. In that case, once I had driven the screw, I had to cut the end of it off with a metal saw or it would have poked in to my temple when I wore the glasses.
I bent the remainder of the strip around the arm and crimped it with a particular wrench I have, then wrapped tape around it, so there would be no chance of the metal cutting my temple.
Voila.
It doesn't bend. While doing the repair, I thought about what would have been involved in making it able to bend (only mount the strip to the arm once the arm was in closed position and work a bend into the strip so that it could bend when the arm opens), and I decided I didn't need to go to that trouble. But the sheet metal does have about the same level of "give" that the hinge had had.
The arms break off after not too much time, because they're cheap.
I decided to ask, "What would it involve to fix this?" Here's what I settled on.
I have a roll of thin sheet metal. I cut off a half-inch strip. The place I had to work with at the edge where the glasses part meets the arm was just 1/4 inch, so I cut away 1/8 inch notches at one end of my strip to make a 1/4 inch tab on a strip of metal that, again, for most of its length was 1/2 inch wide. I folded this tab over for greater strength. Then I bent it at a 90 degree angle to the remainder of the strip. The little side is going to go on that little corner, just past the far edge of the lens, where the glasses meet the arm. The long side is going to go down the arm.
I had a package of #4 screws, 1/2 inch in length. #2 would probably have been better, but #4 was was what I had. I found my slim drill bit that's right for that size screw, and drilled two holes through my tab (I only ended up using one of them, but I thought I would need two). I lined up my tab with that little corner and drilled into the frame of the glasses. Then I drove a screw into that to secure the tab to the corner of the glasses. I needed to adjust to one size bigger drill bit because I thought, as I was driving the screw in, that it might split the plastic on the corner.
I did the same on the arm, about an inch and a half down the strip of metal and down the arm. In that case, once I had driven the screw, I had to cut the end of it off with a metal saw or it would have poked in to my temple when I wore the glasses.
I bent the remainder of the strip around the arm and crimped it with a particular wrench I have, then wrapped tape around it, so there would be no chance of the metal cutting my temple.
Voila.
It doesn't bend. While doing the repair, I thought about what would have been involved in making it able to bend (only mount the strip to the arm once the arm was in closed position and work a bend into the strip so that it could bend when the arm opens), and I decided I didn't need to go to that trouble. But the sheet metal does have about the same level of "give" that the hinge had had.
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I like this, I have loads of these broken. I may try a bit more of a bodge way.
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Gori the Grey
The Poster
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2009
- Messages
- 13,450
I once bought this:
to fix a leaky drain pipe that was in an area such that I couldn't get to it to remove and replace properly. They say it dries as hard as metal, and boy are they right.
I wonder if I could put a blob of that at the corner and let it do its magic.
Nice to know about the super glue and baking soda.
to fix a leaky drain pipe that was in an area such that I couldn't get to it to remove and replace properly. They say it dries as hard as metal, and boy are they right.
I wonder if I could put a blob of that at the corner and let it do its magic.
Nice to know about the super glue and baking soda.
tjs282
Stone \ Cold / Fish
Huh, I'd forgotten about this thread.
My most recent successful repair was replacing the small sponge pad which acts as a damper on the oscillating lever-arm (that drives the cutter-blade) in our hair-clipper. The old one was pretty thin and open-pored, has been failing by degrees for years, and finally fell apart when I unscrewed the fixed blade (again) to clean out the clump of oily hair which had built up in the cavity that should have been fully occupied by the damper-pad.
The new pad was cut from a large dense sponge block that I'd bought for wiping down newly grouted tiles (it was still a little gummed up with the powdery residue, but I rinsed that out). First I cut a thin slice off one end, then cut a short strip off the slice, and then measured the cavity and cut a slightly larger piece off the strip to fit it snugly. Finally I cut a small slot for the end of the arm, and reassembled the blades onto the clipper housing. Works better (and quieter!) than it has in years.
My most recent "repair" (=bodge) was sticky-taping and then duck-taping the back panel of my mobile phone (Sony Xperia 5, bought secondhand) to hold it in place and together, after I dropped the phone the other day, and cracked it badly (which fudging corporate asshat decided that glass would be a good material for making the back-panel?!?). This should at least hold it together until I can (be bothered to) buy a new phone -- ideally also one with a better battery (this one barely holds a charge for 24 hours even without using it...).
My most recent successful repair was replacing the small sponge pad which acts as a damper on the oscillating lever-arm (that drives the cutter-blade) in our hair-clipper. The old one was pretty thin and open-pored, has been failing by degrees for years, and finally fell apart when I unscrewed the fixed blade (again) to clean out the clump of oily hair which had built up in the cavity that should have been fully occupied by the damper-pad.
The new pad was cut from a large dense sponge block that I'd bought for wiping down newly grouted tiles (it was still a little gummed up with the powdery residue, but I rinsed that out). First I cut a thin slice off one end, then cut a short strip off the slice, and then measured the cavity and cut a slightly larger piece off the strip to fit it snugly. Finally I cut a small slot for the end of the arm, and reassembled the blades onto the clipper housing. Works better (and quieter!) than it has in years.
My most recent "repair" (=bodge) was sticky-taping and then duck-taping the back panel of my mobile phone (Sony Xperia 5, bought secondhand) to hold it in place and together, after I dropped the phone the other day, and cracked it badly (which fudging corporate asshat decided that glass would be a good material for making the back-panel?!?). This should at least hold it together until I can (be bothered to) buy a new phone -- ideally also one with a better battery (this one barely holds a charge for 24 hours even without using it...).
dusters
Emperor
A handstand lamp with in built alarm clock, thermometer and calendar all in one. Had to change batteries and something else.
