Being a Tourist in Italy

Unlike Florence, Naples and Rome, Pompeii was covered with ash at a high point and left undisturbed for 2000 years. The other cities were built over, expanded, torn down, rebuilt etc. many times. Pompeii (and Herculaneum) were covered and left undisturbed so that uncovered they show a more exact image of Roman times. Deep streets have stepping stones, beautiful mosaics decorated floors and walls were painted with colorful scenes. While many of these are now in the the museum, some remain in place. Most of the named and unnamed houses are closed to the public so only street views are possible. Many of the houses were quite large.

Vesuvius looms.

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And likely also the mosaic itself...
 
Didn't you see any of those petrified guys?
 
Didn't you see any of those petrified guys?
Just couple. I first thought they were all at the Archaeological Museum; they are not. They are scattered around the ruined city in dribs and drabs and most of those were inaccessible when I was there. I did see some in my visit to the Villa of the Mysteries. Pictures to follow.
 
Temple of Isis
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Model of the temple

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The Amphitheater.

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Signage:

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Plan of the house and the gardens in the back. Stairs led to a second story.

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Entrance to another big house.

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Street food vendor. Looks like five "flavors" for sale. These thermopolia are found throughout Pompeii (over 150 uncovered so far) and offered ready to eat food and drink. Those with a second story could have been inns or brothels.

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Pompeii also has cats.
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The Forum revisited.

The Forum in 79 AD

The Temple of Jupiter is the large cutaway building in the center right.
The two story colonnade is clearly visible separating the Temple of Jupiter from the Temple of Apollo.
The Basilica shown earlier is at the far left.

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Facing the Temple of Jupiter.

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I turned to my left and took this picture of what remains of the two story colonnade.


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From the air (not my picture)
The arch on the left marks one side of the Temple of Jupiter.

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The ruins of Pompeii are just that, ruins that do not convey the active life of the city 2000 years ago. So much of the spectacular elements have been removed (or destroyed) that much is lost wandering the mostly barren streets. To get the most out of a visit, I suggest spend time in advance doing your homework; consider a group tour or an audio tour. I am not a big fan of group tours and would rather hire an individual guide to walk me around. That way you get to move at your own pace. I was there in April and the day was sunny and warm. By summer it will very hot and more crowded. There is no shade. Plan for that.

Just north of the city are two villas that are worth seeing.

Villa dei Misteri and Villa de Diomedes. They were an additional charge on your ticket and added a bunch more walking. The road to the villas passes through a necropolis. Villa de Diomedes is still just ruins. Villa dei Misteri is somewhat restored and covered.

Entering the necropolis.

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This was a big place with multiple levels.

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You can see here that the many brick columns found all over Pompeii were likely covered in stucco or plaster and the important columns were the only ones built from blocks of marble.

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Here is a reconstruction of the house. It has three levels.

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Detailed floor plans and pictures can be found here:


The interactive map here is very cool!

 
For me this was the high point of Pompeii. Upon discovery in 1909 the villa had no roof to protect its contents. Various roofs were added during the 20th C. The modern entrance to the villa is on the right down the sloping walkways. The pre eruption entrance was opposite on the left.

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A more comprehensive re-roofing took place inn the last decade or so. My photo from of the entrance walkway. The stone structure on the roof collects water for the impluvium below.
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Villa of the Mysteries

This is an extremely important villa because it houses one of the most famous frescos in all of Ancient Rome. The villa itself dates to the 2nd century BC and was built just outside the gates of Pompeii. The entire area spanned 40,000 square feet and had 60 rooms from bedrooms to kitchens and servants’ quarters. At the time of the eruption, it was already 200 years old, however, it had previously been remodeled after a major earthquake from a luxurious villa into a working albeit grand farmhouse that had its own grape press.

The room in which the villa gains both its name and fame houses a fresco that stretches over 17 metres long, a discovery that was made in 1909. The Mysteries of Dionysus is said to depict an initiation into the cult of the God of Wine; however, some arguments are made that the scene is in fact preparation for a wedding that is taking place. Either way, the vivid red colouring of the fresco has led people to nickname the area a ‘red room’, however, studies show that the room could have been a dining area. It took modern archaeologists 20 years to fully excavate as they had to continually stop and implement conservation methods to counteract the damage that previous excavators and exposure to elements had caused. As the ceiling of the room was exposed, wet rain and the sun have faded the paint and over the years there have been many efforts for preservation made. Currently, along with other methods, there are lasers which gently clean the frescoes.



An artist reconstruction of the villa showing the entrance stairs, the circular porch and, in the distance, the walls of the city and the Domus de Diomedes.

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the floor plan of the house showing the covered portico that is the modern entrance on the right, the impluvium with tits rectangular pool in the center, the rounded porch at the bottom with its view of the bay of Naples and the famous mysteries frescos room marked with a star. Many of the rooms are not currently accessible.

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Bodies from Pompeii

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Pompeii Red

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Frescos

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Entrance portico showing how the columns were constructed.

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