Custom-buidling a computer

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Apr 12, 2008
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edit: ops, please move this to the computer board. Sorry about that.

I am interested in custom-making my next computer. It will be a good while before I do this because I'm saving up for a car, but I look forward to it and I'd like to discuss this with anyone that has done it.

By the time I will have the car and afford this computer, Windows 8 will have been out. And I want it to run on Windows 8 (probably professional, unless there is a compelling reason to get ultimate).

How many of you have made your own computer? Have you had problems with it? Does it work well?

Do you all have websites and/or books to recommend for making your own computer? I know nothing about it really.

note: Since I'm making this myself, I don't really care about "name brand" for the components. Just the best tech specs for the money.
 
I've built a couple of my own now. It's not difficult. Just either get recommendations on parts or hunt up reviews.
 
First question to ask is what is your budget and what is your need?

If you have strictly utilitarian needs, and gaming is a secondary/tertiary need, shop for a $300 to $400 laptop computer first, and see if it does what you want. Even if you want a desktop, keep that figure in the back of your head that you can get a reasonably featured Intel i-series laptop for around $400. That's a good guide to determine if your build is reasonably priced.

Second, look around the 'net and magazines for recent custom build that people have done. People love to brag about their builds. Try to talk them up about any issues they ran into with their specific build as that will tell you what components are really better, and which components might have conflicts with each other. I know it seems lame compared to going to school or buying books, but it is market research that actually pays off because it saves money. It's the kind of info you won't find in a book, because it's a little too true to print.

At any rate, price some of the builds from a reasonable supplier like Newegg.com or MicroCenter, or whatever has a good rep in your region. Decide what you can really afford versus what you want. Realize some things are overpriced per performance gain, and there are bottlenecks in computer design such that spending tons of money on one part while being cheap on a component that interacts with the other part can actually just be a waste of money in sum. Don't be fooled into thinking the newest or most powerful component is actually the better value. Also, figure that you should get paid about $30/ hour for your installation work and factored that into your final cost.


THEN, do the reading (books or online) on:

1. cases, motherboards, cpus, RAM, videocards, etc... Youtube actually has some decent videos on how installations work.

2. case cooling and power supply issues. Running at reasonable temps is the best thing for getting the most out of a build.

sidenote: Don't pay attention to overclocking and overclocking needs. Don't bother doing it. If you want to learn about overclocking, practice with an old computer after you build a new. Overclocking CAN kill a computer by over-volting and overheating parts. Reading about overclocking from someone who know the physics and electronics of it in detail is informative, but it's risking your money to actually overclock.

3. diagnosing computer problems. This actually is pretty helpful to have done before you do your first build, as bad components, or bad practice might happen. I've had several good builds, and then a few bad ones where I did something wrong that I forgot about though I knew better earlier. Being good at troubleshooting saves a lot of stress when you build by yourself.

A book that teaches A+ cert concepts might be overkill, but there's a Dummies guide version for around $50 ($5 used on Amazon), and that can actually be helpful for background info, although my first build was done with nothing more than tips from a Maximum PC special issue. You don't need much more than that then some physics 1/2 appreciation for electricity, circuits and a run-down on how computer hardware is and works.



At any rate, don't actually build or buy components until you feel you've learned enough that you could do it from memory. That'll prevent you from doing something stupid and wasting money. Or if you feel playful, build a $200 computer from the cheapest/used parts available to get practice in. Then overclock it to death.

My current build (and temperatures, not under load):

Operating System
MS Windows 7 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5 2500 @ 3.30GHz 44 °C
Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology
RAM
16.0 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
Intel Corporation DZ68BC (CPU 1) 39 °C
Graphics
SyncMaster (1280x960@60Hz)
1024MB GeForce GTS 450 (EVGA) 43 °C
Hard Drives
244GB Seagate ST3250310NS (SATA) 38 °C
977GB Western Digital WDC WD10EACS-00ZJB0 (SATA) 35 °C
Optical Drives
ASUS DRW-24B1ST
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio
 
If you can put together lego, you can put together a computer.

My biggest tip is that if you're making a performance rig, make sure to get a PSU with enough wattage. There's some useful calculators to figure out your minimum wattage requirements.

http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
 
Operating System
MS Windows 7 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5 2500 @ 3.30GHz 44 °C
Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology
RAM
16.0 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
Intel Corporation DZ68BC (CPU 1) 39 °C
Graphics
SyncMaster (1280x960@60Hz)
1024MB GeForce GTS 450 (EVGA) 43 °C
Hard Drives
244GB Seagate ST3250310NS (SATA) 38 °C
977GB Western Digital WDC WD10EACS-00ZJB0 (SATA) 35 °C
Optical Drives
ASUS DRW-24B1ST
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

That i5 runs hot as hell. My AMD FX-6100 OC'd to 4.1GHz stays under 20 C at load and idles at 11 C.
 
If you're not buying it "for good while" then don't waste your time looking at anything now as a lot of what you read and learn will be out of date by the time you purchase. For this same reason there is no book that you can buy that will remain relevant for long enough. And there is no need anyway, all the info is out there. Relevant websites to figure out what you should get and/or how to do it are Anandtech, Hardforum, Tom's Hardware... the list goes on.

When you do decide to purchase, your primary goal should be figuring out what you want to do with the PC and go from there. If you are just going to use it for office type stuff and internet... don't bother building your own as you can get more for your money buying something from one of the big manufacturers. If you want a good gaming rig, or you have some other niche need, like an HTPC, or you just want to fool around then, like contre said, it is basically putting together an expensive lego set.

Case+motherboard+CPU+video card+HD+RAM = your own custom built computer. If your purchase is 3 or more months out, don't bother researching what you want as you may just need to relearn a bunch of stuff all over again later and the prices might change significantly.
 
By the time I will have the car and afford this computer, Windows 8 will have been out. And I want it to run on Windows 8 (probably professional, unless there is a compelling reason to get ultimate).

There's only Windows 8 and Windows 8 Pro.

If you have strictly utilitarian needs, and gaming is a secondary/tertiary need, shop for a $300 to $400 laptop computer first, and see if it does what you want.

There is no laptop at that price that I could in good faith recommend to anyone.

If you can put together lego, you can put together a computer.

My biggest tip is that if you're making a performance rig, make sure to get a PSU with enough wattage. There's some useful calculators to figure out your minimum wattage requirements.

http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

Wattage isn't a great measure, there are loads of awful high-wattage power supplies. Check a good (jonnyguru, hardocp) PSU review site. (Most sites don't review PSUs well.)

This is my current default recommendation for custom PCs, unless you're specifically building a low-power or SLI/crossfire system.

That i5 runs hot as hell. My AMD FX-6100 OC'd to 4.1GHz stays under 20 C at load and idles at 11 C.

Cool story, bro.

power-1.png


power-2.png


Heat output scales linearly with wattage, so assuming you've got your FX-6100 at 4.1 GHz at stock voltage you'd be around 150W at load on the second chart, or waaay above the i5-2500 in heat output.
 
This page seems to sum up the different windows 8 versions pretty well: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_8_editions

Apparently there is also an "enterprise" edition, but that's only for software assurance customers (and I don't even know what that is).

How much will Windows 8 cost when it's released?
 
What's your coolant, liquid nitrogen?

Air cooled with a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. Basically a large chunk of copper.

Cool story, bro.

power-1.png


power-2.png


Heat output scales linearly with wattage, so assuming you've got your FX-6100 at 4.1 GHz at stock voltage you'd be around 150W at load on the second chart, or waaay above the i5-2500 in heat output.

My TPD is nowhere near 150W. My temps never go above 20ish C, even under full load for hours. Of course, I'm not using a crappy heat sink. I believe those power jumps may be from Turbo Boost (or whatever they call it these days), which is notoriously crappy. My chip is stable at 4.1 all the time.
 
Air cooled with a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. Basically a large chunk of copper.

My TPD is nowhere near 150W. My temps never go above 20ish C, even under full load for hours. Of course, I'm not using a crappy heat sink. I believe those power jumps may be from Turbo Boost (or whatever they call it these days), which is notoriously crappy. My chip is stable at 4.1 all the time.

Yeah, your temps are pretty obviously wrong, unless the room your computer operates in is around freezing temperatures. It's impossible for an air cooled chip to be any cooler than ambient air temperature.

The charts I posted aren't TDP, they're total system draw at the wall. Max turbo on a stock FX-6100 is 3.9 GHz and TDP is 95W (that's TDP for only the CPU, not the entire system, and TDP isn't a measure of power consumption anyway), so it's impossible for your chip to come in below that.
 
Yeah, your temps are pretty obviously wrong, unless the room your computer operates in is around freezing temperatures. It's impossible for an air cooled chip to be any cooler than ambient air temperature.

The charts I posted aren't TDP, they're total system draw at the wall. Max turbo on a stock FX-6100 is 3.9 GHz and TDP is 95W (that's TDP for only the CPU, not the entire system, and TDP isn't a measure of power consumption anyway), so it's impossible for your chip to come in below that.

I never claimed to be lower than 95w on the chip. Secondly, here is a pic of my current temps.

OeUTL.png


You know very little about air heat sinks. Do some research on the larger copper heatsinks. The one I use is the Hyper 212 EVO from Cooler Master. It is the undisputed copper heatsink champ.
 
Yeah, that's obviously wrong, air can't cool below ambient temperature.

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2655&page=4

In their tests it cools to 13C above ambient temperature, and there are a bunch of other heatsinks that do better. (Thermalright makes pretty much the best air heatsinks.)

My bedroom stays at 70 F. My case is designed to keep itself cool. The CPU idles at like, what, 15 degrees below room temp. It isn't that big of a deal.
 
My bedroom stays at 70 F. My case is designed to keep itself cool. The CPU idles at like, what, 15 degrees below room temp. It isn't that big of a deal.

Even a perfect air cooler can only drop the temperature to the air temperature around it, a perfect case can only drop the inside to the temperature of the outside according to the laws of physics.
 
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