vague "hurr I feel this game is bad idk how to describe it"
I really, really, really hate this rhetoric. I can't quite pinpoint what it is yet, but I can tell you that I have yet to actually have fun playing civ VII. There are only five concrete thing I can say at the moment.
1. The input that does what I want to do is consistently my 2nd-4th idea of how I would do something. I don't mind it as much as I thought I would, but it is definitely true that the intuitive to me thing is never how you actually do things. It's actually impressive. You'd think by random chance some things would be my instinct. Especially as a long time series vet who has also played a bunch of other strategy games.
2. The new war system is really awkward and feels bad. It's probably relatively okay at low difficulties where the AI doesn't have huge combat bonuses for existing, but on high difficulties where they do, I feel like I have to shoot myself in the foot to actually do war because I need to spend a boatload of influence to have them hate me, even more to not still be in war weariness even after doing a formal war, and because the AI has to hate me and spending influence is the only way to make them hate me, I'm giving up substantial diplomatic endeavor stuff between just losing a trade partner because they hate me and making them hate me required me to use the trade partner resource. I'm sure with more games I'll figure out how to make it work naturally, but the system is definitely awkward and bad if you do the game theory optimal thing (match your partner. If they want to collaborate, collaborate. If they want to kill you, kill them.)
3. Units are too cheap for a 1 UPT combat system where killing anything takes multiple turns and most combat happens at home. Defensive terrain is way too defensive and basically impossible to crack if the map generation gods/AI decide to put their city in a big stretch of it because movement is so constrained. You also can't build builders or engineers to make siege structures or logistical roads that match your intended strategy to overcome defensive terrain because that would be fun, tactically deep, solve the issue, and be historically accurate.
4. Cities vs settlements isn't very fun or complicated. Your production sites become cities. Your food sites stay as settlements. Settlement focus feels like a trap and you'd rather just keep growing to get more yields to accelerate future eras. This is probably one of the big things making me not have fun. I'm just...not really doing anything for very long stretches of time because I have very few build queues and the AI didn't decide to hate me so I'm not in wars or imminently in wars.
5. Endeavors being locked to specific leader traits is confusing and needlessly limiting. Not the biggest deal because it feels like you really have to go out of your way to get excess influence if you're not playing an influence leader, but if I'm playing Ben Franklin I don't need more science help and it sure would be nice if I could use
diplomacy and trade to shore up things I have a comparative disadvantage in, but that's not a thing.
It's 5.5 I guess, but I strongly suspect that independent people aren't going to be a real barb replacement in practice. Too early to say for sure there, but I've yet to feel particularly threatened by them. Bottom line is that the fact that I'm just not having fun and not really understanding the strategy game as an avid strategy gamer and longtime series veteran is very relevant information. I'm sure if I put in another 100 hours I could more pinpoint what it is I don't like, but that would require putting in 100 hours I'm not having fun in...
Overall, it feels very much so how Humankind felt to me (on release at least). I start out by exploring, expanding, and building towns. I pick yields that do that sensibly. If I get attacked, I defend. When it feels "right", I work on actively doing something on the big checklist. It seems to be working okay even though I decided to do immortal for the first game after hearing the AI isn't very good. I really should be getting bullied by the AI for doing a 95% blind playthrough on immortal, especially because I clearly don't actually understand many, many systems, and I'm just not.