Computer Questions Not Worth Their Own Thread II

If you take all the innards of a PC out and put them into a new case, will Windows 7 think it's been re-installed and require a new validation? (Assume the CPU is not removed or replaced, but putting everything in the new box would require disconnecting everything else and then reconnecting.)

I want to put the guts of my current PC into a HTPC case and put all new stuff in my old case. My Windows 7 copy is OEM and if I remember correctly the license is only good for one install.
 
If you take all the innards of a PC out and put them into a new case, will Windows 7 think it's been re-installed and require a new validation? (Assume the CPU is not removed or replaced, but putting everything in the new box would require disconnecting everything else and then reconnecting.)

I want to put the guts of my current PC into a HTPC case and put all new stuff in my old case. My Windows 7 copy is OEM and if I remember correctly the license is only good for one install.
The license is tied to the motherboard
 
I was looking through Newegg for a gaming desktop and I am wondering which builder has a good reputation for their builds (in terms of reliability and quality, along with standardized parts that I can replace myself instead of relying on proprietary parts). iBuyPower or Cyberpower PC? I want to stay away from brands like HP, Gateway, and especially Dell (This includes Alienware!).
 
I was looking through Newegg for a gaming desktop and I am wondering which builder has a good reputation for their builds (in terms of reliability and quality, along with standardized parts that I can replace myself instead of relying on proprietary parts). iBuyPower or Cyberpower PC? I want to stay away from brands like HP, Gateway, and especially Dell (This includes Alienware!).


Get the parts, assemble it yourself.
 
If you take all the innards of a PC out and put them into a new case, will Windows 7 think it's been re-installed and require a new validation? (Assume the CPU is not removed or replaced, but putting everything in the new box would require disconnecting everything else and then reconnecting.)

I want to put the guts of my current PC into a HTPC case and put all new stuff in my old case. My Windows 7 copy is OEM and if I remember correctly the license is only good for one install.

If all the same parts in the same configuration, Windows shouldn't notice. The case has very little to do with the running of the machine.
 
Get the parts, assemble it yourself.
Why assemble it myself? I don't have the time nor patience to assemble it myself nor the skill to build it from scratch. Building it myself is out of the question! I do not know HOW to build a computer. I'd rather buy a computer from a reputable computer builder than risk frying the thing trying to assemble it.

I just want to know which ones are a better computer builder.
 
Why assemble it myself? I don't have the time nor patience to assemble it myself nor the skill to build it from scratch. Building it myself is out of the question! I do not know HOW to build a computer. I'd rather buy a computer from a reputable computer builder than risk frying the thing trying to assemble it.

I just want to know which ones are a better computer builder.

building it requires little skills. So you don't have the time because you have a job? Good for you, but assembling a computer isn't that much work
 
If all the same parts in the same configuration, Windows shouldn't notice. The case has very little to do with the running of the machine.

Forget the case. I'm wondering if disconnecting the HD, RAM, and all other components other than the CPU from the mobo and then reconnecting will make Windows think it's on a new mobo or not.

@civ_king: my question may not have been too clear but I am aware the license is tied to the mobo, hence my question. I.e., if the mobo is disconnected and reconnected will Windows recognize it's still on the same computer and not ask for re-validation?
 
So you don't have the time because you have a job? Good for you,

Just to clarify, I am still unemployed yet back in school.
 
Forget the case. I'm wondering if disconnecting the HD, RAM, and all other components other than the CPU from the mobo and then reconnecting will make Windows think it's on a new mobo or not.

The computer doesn't know what happens to it when it is off. It only knows what configuration in is in when it was turned off and turned back on. If you put it back the same, it should never know.
 
Not sure if this would be appropriate to ask. But since I am interested in taking a class on how to build and repair computers at my college (as eather an elective or an audit class). What course name in general should I look for (I'd figure it would be different from school to school)?
 
The basic computer repair class would be, or similar to, the class for A+ Certification. Check the syllabus to see if that is mentioned on any classes. What college are you going to?
 
The basic computer repair class would be, or similar to, the class for A+ Certification. Check the syllabus to see if that is mentioned on any classes. What college are you going to?
Three Rivers Community College.
 
Are there any free, GUI-based point-and-click -type procedural texture generators floating around? Specifically, one to create planet textures with?
 
If you don't have the diagnostic equipment, or someone with a lot of experience with odd problems (and those guys around here have been a little scarce recently) then the way to solve intermittent problems is to change one piece at a time until everything works. But if you figure possibly 60 watts per meg of RAM, then I really don't think a 300 watt power supply is going to cut it. And since you are talking about an intermittent problem when the PC is using peaking power, this is the next place I would be looking.

I'm told that it's about 8 watts per 128MB. So a gig will be over 60 in full use. That's over 240watts for full use of 4GB. You didn't specify your Ram size, just said you had 4 RAM units.

I forgot to mention that it also locks up at other times like on the internet. It locked up during Windows reinstallation.

Also I doubt that RAM uses anywhere close to that much because my laptop has 4GB of RAM in it and when under full load it lasts more than an hour and a half. Also my friend has 24GB of RAM in his computer and he has a 1000 watt PSU. I think the 8 Watts is per stick (modified of course by clock rate) because PSU calculators count the # of DIMMs. Also DDR3 spec doesn't do 128 MB.
 
@CG:

To be honest a dummies guide would be more useful than college course, for building a comp, which is why most of what you need to know is in a youtube video or a special issue of PC Magazine/Maxium PC. A+ certs are professional certs and a bit more involved than what a basic DIY kit needs. It's a little like training to be dental technician when you only want to know how to brush and floss.

I own a few A+ manuals for the heck of it, but my first builds were made with a DIY-edition home PC mag, the dummies guide to upgrading, and a little 'net sleuthing to be sure that my build didn't have any hidden incompatibilities. If you can build a model airplane, you can build a computer!
 
OK. Remember that diagnosing hardware faults without the right equipment is about trying one thing after another. If you are convinced that it is not the graphics card or the power supply, then the next thing to check is the physical memory. Take one of the RAM modules out and try to install Windows. If it works, leave that module out. If it doesn't work, put the first one back in and take the second one out. Keep doing that until you have tried it without each of the RAM modules.
 
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