Computer Questions Not Worth Their Own Thread

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Yes, they're ribbon cables. Thank you.

P.S. I like the rainbow ones in the picture!
 
Yep, AKA IDE cables.
PSU specs:
FPS Grou Inc, Sparkle Power
DCO utput: 300W
300W is fairly basic and this brand sounds Chinese (only guessing). I suppose it depends what you want to do with it.
p.s. No wonder my fan was noisy - it was choked with dust!!!!
Occasionaly, a computer locking up due to heat (from dust) will leave a corrupted file system and you'll be unable to restart it. Your mother has done well.
EDIT: Back on my own puter -- I noticed when I first powered up, it nagged me to reset the CMOS. My mom said to hit F1, since it does that every time the computer's unplugged. Why would that happen?
CMOS battery?
 
300W is fairly basic and this brand sounds Chinese (only guessing). I suppose it depends what you want to do with it.
I googled the company, it is Chinese. I'm not sure if it'll be decent enough to get a good video card. (I'll probably be able to replace my HDD at least. I can get a new PSU once I get the money.) The site says something about being a leading manufacturer, but I'm pretty sure all companies say that.
http://www.sparklepower.com/
(The English is good, but there's occasionally an awkward sentence structure that makes me laugh: "Our experienced and knowledgeable engineers will help to select precisely the best power solution for you.")

Occasionaly, a computer locking up due to heat (from dust) will leave a corrupted file system and you'll be unable to restart it. Your mother has done well.
My hard drive hasn't been chattering since I cleaned it. I only notice it's there when I open a folder with about a thousand files in it.
Also, the air coming out of the fan is a lot cooler.

CMOS battery?
I'm not sure. It said somethign about booting up the BIOS in safe mode and the CPU. And said F1 if you want to continue anyways, and mom said "press it, it always gives that error when it's unplugged."
 
I'm not sure if it'll be decent enough to get a good video card.
There is a variety of card available with cut down specs that uses less power than the best ones. These are easy to find as they have passive (no fan) coolers or are smaller than you'd expect but still use good chipsets. In some places these are the most commonly available types. They may be underclocked and offer 20% less than the original spec for example, but 20% in the scheme of things is negligible (unless you're dealing with a specific borderline performance issue). I choose these cards often. They are usually good performers when compared with integrated graphics, are quiet, consume relatively little power and are relatively inexpensive (under $100).
Also, the air coming out of the fan is a lot cooler.
Excellent.
"press it, it always gives that error when it's unplugged."
If you like to go into your BIOS setup and optimise things, you'll appreciate having the battery working. Furthermore, given some time the old battery may corrode.
 
I don't need a video card that's super powerful, just something that'll be able to play my games decently, especially since integrated cards aren't supported on most. Is there a special name for these cards? (I know ATI has the "On-Board" and "Mobility" cards, something like that?)

It could be the battery for the CMOS thing. The only thing I ever do in the BIOS is to boot up from a CD. (I often leave CDs in the drive, so I always switch back after playing in Knoppix.)
 
How exactly do you do that?

I know it's been doing it since I got it in '07.
 
Locate the battery on the mobo. the clip that holds it in place will either have a tiny screw, or will be springy enough so it can just be pulled up. Take the battery to a computer store and ask them to match up the part. The batteries are I think of a standard size.
 
That's why I also wrote down the brand. (Sparkle Power Inc.)
 
Locate the battery on the mobo. the clip that holds it in place will either have a tiny screw, or will be springy enough so it can just be pulled up. Take the battery to a computer store and ask them to match up the part. The batteries are I think of a standard size.

I'll do that when my mom lets me open up the computer again (maybe 90 years :lol:)
 
If you need a decent GPU, you gotta tell us your CPU (If you have before, I dont remember it, soz.) The reason I ask is cus there's a point where a more powerful GPU would do nothing, so you wanna match it. It also depends on what kind of bus you have. PCI, PCIe or AGP.
 
I have an AMD Athlon 64 3500+. :)

I also have a PCI Bus #0, whatever that means.

I got this from HWiNFO32. (Most people recommend Everest Home, but I tried it and it didn't work.)
 
I don't need a video card that's super powerful, just something that'll be able to play my games decently,
Games often list chip recommendations on the box (or Google for same).
How exactly do you do that?
Most have a simple spring clip. Pull it back with a pen or your fingernail. Wipe your prints off the new battery, put it in at an angle and press the edge down.
 
The game that I have the most trouble with has "minimum" as a ATI Radeon 8500. The "recommended" is a 9700. Another game says the 8000/9000 series. These are the two I have trouble with even on low settings.

Other games have trouble with high settings, I usually set those as low but often it comes out looking awful.
 
I finally convinced mom to lemme open my case (with her standing nearby) Im on moms comp with funny keyboard please excuse typing

PSU specs:
FPS Grou Inc, Sparkle Power
DCO utput: 300W

Any good?
That's not the relevant info.

p.s. No wonder my fan was noisy - it was choked with dust!!!! and the "little black cooling box" was actually another fan. :)

EDIT: Back on my own puter -- I noticed when I first powered up, it nagged me to reset the CMOS. My mom said to hit F1, since it does that every time the computer's unplugged. Why would that happen? As far as I know, it only happens if it's unplugged.

ANOTHER EDIT: Noobiest question ever -- Inside my PC, I noticed these "ribbons" running from one hardware to another. What are the names of this? I spent the last half-hour trying to search it. I think it might be an IDC ribbon but googling it only brings up pictures of the connectors or are too small to tell.
Power cables probably.
 
That's not the relevant info.

Well, I figured the "output" was how much it was. It was such a small label (and upside down on top of that) it was hard to read anything.

And I know "Sparkle Power" is a PSU company, I googled it...it's from China.

EDIT: I think I notice:
http://www.sparklepower.com/proPCPS_ATX.html

There's differnt types of PSUs....I'll have to check another time.
 
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