Destination: Peru

[warpus]

Hi Y'all

Me and a friend are going on a 3 week long hiking/backpacking trip to Peru this May! Right now we are just doing research and trying to figure out which trail we should hike, mainly, as well as which things are worth seeing and which parts of the country we should visit.

Here is what we want to do for sure:

- We want to see Machu Picchu. We were going to hike the Inca trail, but that thing is way too popular, it will have too many people, will cost $600 each, usually has to be booked months in advance, etc. So instead we'd like to fly or bus to Cuzco, spend some time there, then go to Machu Picchu on a day trip, or a 2 day long trip.

- We want to do a 4, 5, or 6 day long hike somewhere. Right now we have our eyes on the Santa Cruz hike, which appears to be on the other side of the country (20 hour bus ride from Cuzco?)

Other than that we'd love to get some info on what's worth seeing in Lima, any other city worth visiting, suggestions for other multi-day treks with spectacular views we could do instead of santa cruz, more information on Machu Picchu (what to book, 1 day or 2 day? etc.), gear (what to rent, what to bring) and anything else you can think of, if you've ever been there.

Has anyone here done any high-altitude hiking btw? The altitudes on the Santa Cruz trail reach 4760m (15,617ft). I don't have any experience hiking so high up and my friend who is coming with me has not done any such hiking at all.. so we will probably be hiring a guide to come with us. Any tips on how to distinguish a legit. company from a scam or just something really crappy?

I have heard that the Colco Canyon is worth visiting, but the pictures I looked at don't really look that great. Any info on that?

Here's the reddit thread I started on this about a month ago.
And here's the lonely planet thread.

Thanks for any info you can provide!

And btw mods, if you have any problem with threads like these, let me know. Just making sure, this is like the 5th or 6th I've opened.

 

[innonimatu]

Be careful where you eat in Peru, or be ready to spend some days plagued by diarrhea! It's really inconvenient when you're trying to enjoy a trip...

 

[warpus]

Be careful where you eat in Peru, or be ready to spend some days plagued by diarrhea! It's really inconvenient when you're trying to enjoy a trip...

Is there something in particular in Peruvian cuisine I should avoid? Or is the country known for this sort of stuff or something?

I do intend to try their coca tea, made from coca leaves, the same stuff cocaine is made from. It's supposed to give you a mild buzz and help with high-altitude hiking. Apparently they recommend it for most people doing the Inca trail, with the disclaimer for Americans that when they go back home they will test positive for cocaine, unless they wait 3-4 weeks beforehand.

 

[luiz]

Sadly I've only been to Peru on short business trips. But here are some tips:

-In Lima, the fancy districts are San Isidro and Miraflores. That's where the good hotels, restaurants, nightclubs and pretty women are. They are really nice to walk, with good cafés and atmosphere.

-Much of the rest of Lima is poor, even by South American standards. From the air it looks like a big slum.

-Traffic in Lima is pretty chaotic, perhaps the worst I've seen, and that's a lot to say. Limeños will essentially drive honking the whole time, and it can drive foreigners mad.

-Peruvian food is awesome! Besides the more traditional Ceviche and other japanese influences, be sure to try "chifa" food, which is a chinese-peruvian hybrid developed in the immigrant communities. It's fantastic stuff. And of course you must try pisco, the national peruvian beverage. Being a gringo you should follow innonimatu's advice and stick to more reputable restaurants, that is, avoid street vendors (I love Peruvian street food, but I'm south american and thus immune to the Inca Revenge ).

 

[warpus]

-In Lima, the fancy districts are San Isidro and Miraflores. That's where the good hotels, restaurants, nightclubs and pretty women are. They are really nice to walk, with good cafés and atmosphere.

Will I find authentic Peruvian food there too you think?

I don't want to get sick but when I was in Chile we made a point of going to restaurants that looked like places where locals ate. I never got sick.. but should I avoid places like that in Peru then? Maybe to play it safe I should stick to more reputable restaurants at first and try the more adventurous stuff after the hikes?

-Peruvian food is awesome! Besides the more traditional Ceviche and other japanese influences, be sure to try "chifa" food, which is a chinese-peruvian hybrid developed in the immigrant communities. It's fantastic stuff. And of course you must try pisco, the national peruvian beverage. Being a gringo you should follow innonimatu's advice and stick to more reputable restaurants, that is, avoid street vendors (I love Peruvian street food, but I'm south american and thus immune to the Inca Revenge ).

Chifa, got it, thanks!

And I do love pisco! In Chile we had a bunch of pisco sours and they were awesome. Haven't had one since, good to know I'll be able to get one in Peru

What's the national dish of Peru anyway? Any interesting foods you'd recommend?

 

[luiz]

Will I find authentic Peruvian food there too you think?

You certainly will. San Isidro and Miraflores have the best restaurants in Peru, including those of traditional cuisine. Of course, you'll also find plenty of "fusion" chic restaurants, with stuff like "neo-andine cuisine" and whatnot. Those are also pretty good, but not exactly what the average peruvian eats.

I don't want to get sick but when I was in Chile we made a point of going to restaurants that looked like places where locals ate. I never got sick.. but should I avoid places like that in Peru then? Maybe to play it safe I should stick to more reputable restaurants at first and try the more adventurous stuff after the hikes?

Sounds like a good plan.
I approve of always trying to eat where the locals do, but keep in mind that Peru is orders of magnitude more "hardcore" than Chile. Chile is South America's first world.

And I do love pisco! In Chile we had a bunch of pisco sours and they were awesome. Haven't had one since, good to know I'll be able to get one in Peru

Pisco is actually originally peruvian, though chileans will deny that to their deaths.

What's the national dish of Peru anyway? Any interesting foods you'd recommend?

I think ceviche would be the national dish. It's really good when well done.

For a traditional chifa dish, don't miss the "Lomo saltado". It consists of strips of sirloin marinated in vinegar, soy sauce and spices, then stir fried with red onions, parsley and tomatoes. It is usually served over white rice with homemade french fries.

I must go to Peru on vacations soon, I miss the food!

 

[Takhisis]

Have something called 'Ají de gallina' if you can find it, although there's several different recipes. Depending on who's the cook, where he/she is from and where it's being cooked, it can change wildly.

Don't be a show-off, don't annoy the locals. Either of those might get you robbed or beaten up. :/
Pisco is Peruvian, anything to annoy a Chileno.

Careful with the water and other disease carriers, also be careful with the ladies if you come in contact with them.
If you don't know about something in Spanish, feel free to ask!

Will you be keeping a live journal?

 

[madviking]

I recommend taking the first day or two in Cuzco easy. I went there and was pretty crippled for the first two days.

I agree with luiz, Miraflores is a really nice part of Lima, with good restaurants to boot.

There's a town at the base of Machu Picchu called Aguas Calientes, which has a natural hot spring. They've built a spa around it, and it was pretty cool if you ask me.

 

[Takhisis]

Guess what 'Aguas Callientes' means in Spanish.

 

[madviking]

Guess what 'Aguas Callientes' means in Spanish.

Atahualpa's Revenge?

 

[warpus]

You certainly will. San Isidro and Miraflores have the best restaurants in Peru, including those of traditional cuisine. Of course, you'll also find plenty of "fusion" chic restaurants, with stuff like "neo-andine cuisine" and whatnot. Those are also pretty good, but not exactly what the average peruvian eats.

I love eating out when travelling, and it sounds like Peru is going to be cheap, so I'm going to indulge in hopefully all of the things you're suggesting

Sounds like a good plan.
I approve of always trying to eat where the locals do, but keep in mind that Peru is orders of magnitude more "hardcore" than Chile. Chile is South America's first world.

I'm only starting to realize this. I kinda knew that Chile was a bit better off then most of the rest of the continent, but I didn't realize that the differences would be so noticable.

Pisco is actually originally peruvian, though chileans will deny that to their deaths.

Heh.. So pisco is the actual liquor, and a pisco sour is a Chilean take on it? Pisco with stuff added to it?

I must go to Peru on vacations soon, I miss the food!

Come join us! We could use a Spanish-speaking hiking buddy

Have something called 'Ají de gallina' if you can find it, although there's several different recipes. Depending on who's the cook, where he/she is from and where it's being cooked, it can change wildly.

I remember aji sauce from Chile, from what I remember it's a pepper.. I love spicy food so I'm adding this to my "to eat" list, thanks!

Don't be a show-off, don't annoy the locals. Either of those might get you robbed or beaten up. :/

So I should probably tell my travelling buddy that he shouldn't buy a fancy new $800 camera for this trip, right?

I have a fairly new (bought in late 2010, for my nz trip) backpack.. it looks pretty nice.. but not super fancy or anything. Should I be worried?

My camera was only $200 or so (3 years ago), and it's a point and shoot.. but.. it looks a bit more fancy.. even though it isn't. It's just got a 12x optical zoom, meaning a large lens..

Spoiler :

I usually wear it around my neck and take LOTS of pictures. Should I be worried?

The only other thing that I can think of that people might want to steal are my boots. They are very good hiking boots.. How paranoid should I be @ hostels?

be careful with the ladies if you come in contact with them.

Are you saying I could accidently pick up a hooker? Or I should be careful with any girl I happen to pick up? (Yeah, right, like that's going to happen). Should I doublewrap?

Will you be keeping a live journal?

I'm not sure about a blog, like I did in NZ. I might do something like that up, it hasn't really crossed my mind to be honest. I suppose if there is interest, I'll probably do it.

What I always do on my trips is keep a journal of what I did every day. I have somewhat detailed notes for my NZ, Chile, California, etc. trips.. The plan was to turn them into some sort of a website, or a video, or something interactive, but I haven't really figured out the best way to do this yet.. and.. I'm lazy & busy

I recommend taking the first day or two in Cuzco easy. I went there and was pretty crippled for the first two days.

Due to the altitude? Will I have to do that if I end up doing a hike elsewhere in the country (i.e. where I couldn't use cuzco as a base of operations) ? So basically, what I'm asking is.. Say I go to cuzco and spend 2 nights there to acclimatize, then go on some sort of a hike. Then end up wanting to do another high-altitude hike elsewhere, meaning I'll have to bus it to Lima and then (for example) a 5 hour bus ride elsewhere. I'd have to spend 2 nights there acclimatizing again, right? Or no?

Did you drink any coca tea? I read it helps.

There's a town at the base of Machu Picchu called Aguas Calientes, which has a natural hot spring. They've built a spa around it, and it was pretty cool if you ask me.

Yah? I'm going with a male hiking buddy who I'm friends with but not REAL good friends. Would this sort of thing be appropriate? Will we see naked & hairy Peruvian grandpas partaking in spa activities?

 

[Birdjaguar]

The national dish is guinea pig.

Look for fabulous wool sweaters made from alpaca or Vincuna. Cuzco is much higher than Machu Picchu Give yourself a few days to acclimate to the altitude.

You might consider visiting Peru's piece of the Amazon basin.

 

[warpus]

The national dish is guinea pig.

Look for fabulous wool sweaters made from alpaca or Vincuna. Cuzco is much higher than Machu Picchu Give yourself a few days to acclimate to the altitude.

You might consider visiting Peru's piece of the Amazon basin.

Would I have to reacclimatize if I return to Lima and then take a bus high into the mountains elsewhere?

 

[madviking]

Due to the altitude? Will I have to do that if I end up doing a hike elsewhere in the country (i.e. where I couldn't use cuzco as a base of operations) ? So basically, what I'm asking is.. Say I go to cuzco and spend 2 nights there to acclimatize, then go on some sort of a hike. Then end up wanting to do another high-altitude hike elsewhere, meaning I'll have to bus it to Lima and then (for example) a 5 hour bus ride elsewhere. I'd have to spend 2 nights there acclimatizing again, right? Or no?

Yes, due to the altitude. But no, altitude sickness doesn't occur every time that you go to a lower elevation. [herebescience] The sickness itself it caused by exhaustion which is in turn caused by the lower oxygen content of air in places like Cuzco. Your blood realizes "oh boy there's not enough oxygen; we need more red blood cells" and makes those additional red blood cells. But those red blood cells should, as far as I understand, remain for a few days after you return to lower ground; this is why Olympic runners train in/come from Kenya and Ethiopia. They train at the high altitude locations in those countries, and then when they have to compete at sea level, their blood is more red blood celly than a runner from, say, the Netherlands.

Did you drink any coca tea? I read it helps.

Nope.

Yah? I'm going with a male hiking buddy who I'm friends with but not REAL good friends. Would this sort of thing be appropriate? Will we see naked & hairy Peruvian grandpas partaking in spa activities?

Hey, just a suggestion!

And no, the town is pretty much built on Machu Picchu traffic, and the town itself is pretty tiny, so it's pretty much one giant tourist trap, so the spa is mostly filled with other foreigners. So no, no naked & hairy Peruvian grandpas. If anything, some hot chicas!

 

[downtown]

I'm bookmarking this thread...I'm going to Peru next year. Thanks for the info everybody!

 

[Takhisis]

I've never been to peru and it isn't likely that I'll eevr be getting there, can't you lot go somewhere within walking distance of my computer?

 

[warpus]

Yes, due to the altitude. But no, altitude sickness doesn't occur every time that you go to a lower elevation. [herebescience] The sickness itself it caused by exhaustion which is in turn caused by the lower oxygen content of air in places like Cuzco. Your blood realizes "oh boy there's not enough oxygen; we need more red blood cells" and makes those additional red blood cells. But those red blood cells should, as far as I understand, remain for a few days after you return to lower ground; this is why Olympic runners train in/come from Kenya and Ethiopia. They train at the high altitude locations in those countries, and then when they have to compete at sea level, their blood is more red blood celly than a runner from, say, the Netherlands.

Good to know. I have a lonely planet page about high-altitude hiking bookmarked, and I am going to have to educate myself about all this stuff fully at some point, but this sort of knowledge is going to help me with logistical planning before I am fully versed in this stuff.. So good! I don't have to spend 2 days in Huarez if I don't want to (That's the town by the Santa Cruz hike, I think). I heard Huarez is cool .. and there's another town near there that's even cooler.. but it's good to know I don't have to spend 2 days there if I don't want to.

It also means that I should probably check out Machu Picchu first because it's probably worth it spending a couple days in Cuzco anyway.

And no, the town is pretty much built on Machu Picchu traffic, and the town itself is pretty tiny, so it's pretty much one giant tourist trap, so the spa is mostly filled with other foreigners. So no, no naked & hairy Peruvian grandpas. If anything, some hot chicas!

I will def. keep this in mind. For science.

I've never been to peru and it isn't likely that I'll eevr be getting there, can't you lot go somewhere within walking distance of my computer?

That depends, can you see any glaciers or mountains from your window?

 

[Takhisis]

This city features the widest river in the world, some great muesums and historical places and lots of chicks. And [wiki="Superclásico"]one[/wiki] or two sporting events held occasionally.

 

[warpus]

This city features the widest river in the world, some great muesums and historical places and lots of chicks. And [wiki="Superclásico"]one[/wiki] or two sporting events held occasionally.

At some point in my life I am heading back to Argentina (I was in Tierra del Fuego & Ushuaia in 2008) to visit El Calafate, the Morraine Glacier, Fitzroy, etc. I was pretty much on the other side of the border, in Torres Del Paine Nat. park in Chile. The Argentinian side looks amazing too. Anyway, the best way to do that is probably to fly into Buenos Aires and then to fly to El Calafate, so at some point I am indeed going to be in Buenos Aires.

 

[luiz]

I love eating out when travelling, and it sounds like Peru is going to be cheap, so I'm going to indulge in hopefully all of the things you're suggesting

You won't regret it.

I'm only starting to realize this. I kinda knew that Chile was a bit better off then most of the rest of the continent, but I didn't realize that the differences would be so noticable.

Yeah, Chile, Argentina and Uruguay are certainly the "easiest" places to visit in SA.

Heh.. So pisco is the actual liquor, and a pisco sour is a Chilean take on it? Pisco with stuff added to it?

Pisco Sour is a drink based on the pisco liquor. It's popular both in Peru and Chile. Pure pisco is more popular in Peru.

Come join us! We could use a Spanish-speaking hiking buddy

When will you be in Lima?