[RD] Hiking through Norway

Day 29 - Lofoten War Memorial Museum

After Magic Ice it started raining.. Clearly my cruise wasn't going to happen..

Instead I went to the Lofoten War Memorial Museum, which has all sorts of interesting artifacts from World War II.

Such as a Norwegian Commando uniform:





And some uniforms and caps from the baddies:



 
Day 29 - Lofoten War Memorial Museum (continued)

The collection of medals at the museum is fascinating









The following plaque might not be easy to read.. It's a model of the large German battleship that was sunk by a captain from Lofoten islands, Colonel Birger Eriksen. He went against orders and sunk it with one shot.

 
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@warpus

The map in the museum is a fireplan for the defence of Svolvaer. The symbols show the locations and arcs of fire of units/ heavy weapons. I assume the length lines may be there effective range.

The mural shows light house/buoy positions on the Lofoten Islands to the south east of Svolvaer . The different colours will indicate the colour shown by the light when pointing in that direction. So when sailing to Svolvaer you want to approach from the green light direction, if you come in from the red you will get rocks, or sand banks. I assume yellow means ok for shallow draft boats. The length of lines may indicate the distance the light can be seen from which would depend primarily on its height and then brightness.
 
@warpus

The map in the museum is a fireplan for the defence of Svolvaer. The symbols show the locations and arcs of fire of units/ heavy weapons. I assume the length lines may be there effective range.

The mural shows light house/buoy positions on the Lofoten Islands to the south east of Svolvaer . The different colours will indicate the colour shown by the light when pointing in that direction. So when sailing to Svolvaer you want to approach from the green light direction, if you come in from the red you will get rocks, or sand banks. I assume yellow means ok for shallow draft boats. The length of lines may indicate the distance the light can be seen from which would depend primarily on its height and then brightness.

Fascinating on both accounts! Thanks for shedding some light on this.
 
Day 29 - End of first full day on the Lofoten islands

I spent about 45 minutes in the museum. It is not a very large place and not like a traditional museum at all, and more like a small storefront type space converted to what you saw in the pictures. It has so many interesting artifacts I wish I had done some reading on the place beforehand. Instead it was more of a drop-in, I was walking by this building and since I had nothing else to do I decided to step in without really knowing what I'd see inside.

Turns out there were interesting things inside such as several of Hitler's paintings.. One was of Snow white and the seven dwarves, but unfortunately I did not take any pictures of these as at the time I did not know what they were.

After exiting the museum I was greeted with a lack of rain and slightly friendlier looking skies.



I checked in with my contact for the cruise I was on a waiting list for.. However, the very last cruise for the day, the one I had been hoping to get on, got cancelled. This was unfortunate but not unexpected, as looking at the skies you'd imagine that it could very well start raining again anytime.

Before doing anything else I returned to my hotel room. Upon arrival I was greeted with a free bottle of champagne in my room, provided by hotel staff, who felt bad about me sleeping in the dark. I'm not a huge fan of champagne, but appreciated the gesture nevertheless, although I would have found that bottle of champagne a lot more useful the previous night.

Throughout the day I had been searching for accommodations and trying to figure out the rest of my stay on the Lofoten islands. My hotel room in Svolvaer was booked for 1 more night, and after that the hotel was actually fully booked! So I could not stay there any longer. The initial plan was to leave this part of the trip wide open so I could have some flexibility..

But I could not find any accommodation anywhere on any of the Lofoten islands where I wanted to stay.. Everything seemed to be booked solid! I spent some time searching and searching and eventually started calling around, as sometimes online records are not up to date and a room that's marked as booked online could very well be available. Most of the hotels and guest houses I called were indeed booked solid, and for a good chunk of the numbers nobody even picked up. I ended up calling this one place in Reine (that initially looked too fancy for the likes of me) several times, and the last time I called I managed to somehow strike gold. I said something like: "Are you sure?" Or "Can you double-check?", and after waiting on hold for a minute or two, I was greeted with a cheerful voice informing me that one converted fisherman's cabin is available for the dates I specified! With the caveat that I would have to switch cabins for my last night.

I did not mind this at all and loved the location as it was very close to a trailhead for a hike I really wanted to do. However, the cost of the cabin was more than what I had budgeted for this part of the trip. In fact, it was a lot more than what I was initially prepared to pay.. However, since I spent so much time looking and was unable to find any other accommodation that would put me where I wanted to be... .. I sat on the phone for a couple seconds thinking about this.. and whether I should splurge on this deluxe accommodation for my last couple nights in the country.. "I'll take it!", I said.. "Why not!"..

After all this I decided to go on a hike. There was one recommended hiking trail in the area that I had my eyes on. Looking at a map I thought it looked doable in terms of me being able to squeeze it in before it started getting dark. I managed to make it about 45 minutes into my walk when I realized that the trail I had picked was taking me high up into the clouds..

I had a map with me but initially it seemed like those mountains were further in the distance.. Turns out I misjudged the distances and the trail would take me well beyond the first hill you see, and almost all the way to the top of the second one.



The clouds did not move out of the way over time at all, and so eventually I decided to turn around.. It looked like it could start raining again anytime, and the visibility up above looked very poor. I decided it was a better idea to go find a pub or bar where I could watch the Chelsea soccer game, which just happened to be starting in a half an hour or so.

I talked to a couple locals on my walk into town and tried to ask if they know if there's any pubs or bars that might be showing an English Premier League game.. I got some vague directions to a place that might be showing such a thing.. and.. indeed, they were! I sat down and watched the game, in which my team lost. I was sitting beside a guy who "really hates soccer". Although he was there to watch the game too. It was quite odd overall, but we had an interesting chat throughout the game.

Afterwards I ate some pizza for dinner and made my way back to my hotel room, where I went to work on the champagne bottle. Outside there was a wedding celebration underway, which went on late into the night. "This is the worst hotel I have ever stayed at", I thought to myself, as I finished off the last remaining drops of the champagne and continued to swear under my breath at the party unfolding outside. Eventually I managed to fall asleep, ready for an early morning bus ride across the Lofoten islands
 
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The following plaque might not be easy to read.. It's a model of the large German battleship that was sunk by a captain from Lofoten islands, Colonel Birger Eriksen. He went against orders and sunk it with one shot.


Heh, I guess the officer's homeplace justifies them having this in the museum, the actual sinking was in the Oslo fjord at the very beginning of the invasion... possibly served as a sufficient speed bump to allow the government, royal family & national gold reserves to get the hell out of Oslo in time.
 
What they really should have is a model of the Warspite which together with the some british destroyers sank 8 german destroyers in a fjord nearby.
 
What they really should have is a model of the Warspite which together with the some british destroyers sank 8 german destroyers in a fjord nearby.

It's possible that they do and I missed it. Although the artifacts they do have seems like a collection acquired over time via various means. I bet they are simply displaying all the worthwhile related artifacts they were able to get their hands on, no matter the connection. I got the feeling that this is a private collection and not anything you might see in a large national museum, although I did not double-check that and am just going by first impressions
 
Hi everyone, thanks for reading and checking in on this thread! Your continued interest, views, and engagement is why I continue posting these.

Unfortunately this thread will have to be put on a brief hold, as I am flying to Vietnam in a couple days and staying there for just under a month. I will be unable to continue these posts during this time.

There are only a couple days left of the Norway trip to post, but I do not want to try to rush through it and do a half-decent job presenting the material. I am not sure if I could finish it in time anyway, as my favourite hike from the whole trip is about to unfold, and instead of rushing through it and probably not even finishing it, I would prefer to do it proper justice and wrap it all up in April, when I'm back from my trip.

What a great opportunity for you to re-live some of this trip by starting from the beginning and checking out some of the posts you might have missed ;) See you again in late March or early April!
 
Hi everyone, thanks for reading and checking in on this thread! Your continued interest, views, and engagement is why I continue posting these.

Unfortunately this thread will have to be put on a brief hold, as I am flying to Vietnam in a couple days and staying there for just under a month. I will be unable to continue these posts during this time.

There are only a couple days left of the Norway trip to post, but I do not want to try to rush through it and do a half-decent job presenting the material. I am not sure if I could finish it in time anyway, as my favourite hike from the whole trip is about to unfold, and instead of rushing through it and probably not even finishing it, I would prefer to do it proper justice and wrap it all up in April, when I'm back from my trip.

What a great opportunity for you to re-live some of this trip by starting from the beginning and checking out some of the posts you might have missed ;) See you again in late March or early April!
Thank you for this thread! As I mentioned early on, this is a way for me to see some of the areas where my distant family on my grandfather's side come from (and who knows - you may have met some distant relative of mine!), so it's been doubly enjoyable.

:hug:
 
Day 30 - Bus to Reine

I have a bit of a tradition to not document the last couple days of a trip in my journal. This signifies the trip entering a new phase... Usually I just sort of forget one day and then continue convincing myself that "there's only a couple days left" and "I will write it all out on the flight home". Then I never write anything down. It seems to happen every single trip.

So at some point on Sunday August 9th I woke up and jumped on a bus to Reine, on one of the other Lofoten islands. It's a beautiful route, about 120km in length, taking you over 8 or so bridges.





Fortunately by the time we arrived in Reine it was not raining anymore!



For the next couple days one of these cabins was to be my home



I really liked the views from my cabin



 
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I still have great memories of the first time I went to Lofoten over 20 years ago: an amazing road trip in the land of never setting sun.
From your photos I can see that very little have changed there.
In that trip I did reach a bit further, to the village of Å (the whortest name in the world) and got ferry to Bødo before travelling back north to Narvik.
One thing that really amazed/surprised me was the huge racks of stockfrish: http://www.bootsandabackpack.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/DSC_2362-Edit-Edit-550x365.jpg

You can see them everywhere, really everywhere: some just drying in the dry cool air others open-air smoked.
Many of them (mostly at the end of the season) were just the heads.
The body of the dried stockfish is going straight to other countries where it becomes typical mediterranean dishes like the portughese bacalao and the italian Baccalà : this is a tradition since the middle ages.
The heads, I was told there, that go to other countries, mostly African countries where thery are often used as traditional feritliser.

My friends wanted to buy some of that dried stockfish directly at the production place: no luck, ALL of it was already sold for export.
Similar happened when we wanted to get some fish at restaurants: no fish, because the locals are all fishmen, they have fish daily, they would never pay a restaurant for it.
I hope now they have some more flexibility for turists. :)
 
Day 31 - Rainy Spaghetti

There are no pictures for this day, no videos, and no log in the journal, but I made spaghetti this day

I walked in the rain for about 3km in order to buy the ingredients for the spaghetti, but there was nothing else to do and I wanted to save money (and make a meal that would last two days).

On the walk back there was even more rain, and the on-going question of the plastic bags and their survival. See, the problem was that I bought too many ingredients, and I overestimated the amount of beer I would need for the next couple of days. As a result the walk back to the cabin was not fun at all.. but the bags ended up surviving and the food did not get wet!

So that's all I did this day, I made some spaghetti with meat sauce, just like my mom used to make. I'm not sure if it's worth writing about.. but I remember this day fondly, even though it was a monday
 
Day 32 - Reinebringen

Most of my time on the Lofoten islands had been accompanied by clouds and/or rain.. so when I woke up to perfectly blue skies I was overjoyed! This meant that I could hike up to the Reinebringen lookout point! Up until then it seemed to always be covered in clouds.. or have clouds dangerously nearby.

The Reinebringen lookout point can be found right at the top of Reinebringen mountain. It's the one on the left



Fortunately the climb is not as steep as it looks. You actually start your ascent from the other side, which is a bit more forgiving.

First you have to get there mind you.. which involves walking down the road and around the mountain..

On the way there there are a couple spots where you can get a great shot of Reine





On the way out of town I walked into a tourist info type place, where I was told to do the hike "at my own risk". Apparently all the rain over the last couple days really washed away a whole bunch of the trail and it was now unstable enough for local authorities to deem the hike to be "potentially dangerous".

Not discouraged, I figured I would at least walk to the trailhead..



It wasn't looking good.. But I walked up the trail a bit and saw people up ahead making the climb. Up at the top I saw people as well.. Not a great litmus test for safety, but good enough for me.. and if it got bad, I could always turn around.
 
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Day 31 - Rainy Spaghetti

There are no pictures for this day, no videos, and no log in the journal, but I made spaghetti this day

I walked in the rain for about 3km in order to buy the ingredients for the spaghetti, but there was nothing else to do and I wanted to save money (and make a meal that would last two days).

On the walk back there was even more rain, and the on-going question of the plastic bags and their survival. See, the problem was that I bought too many ingredients, and I overestimated the amount of beer I would need for the next couple of days. As a result the walk back to the cabin was not fun at all.. but the bags ended up surviving and the food did not get wet!

So that's all I did this day, I made some spaghetti with meat sauce, just like my mom used to make. I'm not sure if it's worth writing about.. but I remember this day fondly, even though it was a monday



Next time use your backpack to carry your loot. :)
 
Next time use your backpack to carry your loot. :)

It's possible I had my daypack with me, but I can't really remember. My main memory is holding the bags in my hands and hoping that they would last long enough for me to get back to the comforts of the cabin
 
It's possible I had my daypack with me, but I can't really remember. My main memory is holding the bags in my hands and hoping that they would last long enough for me to get back to the comforts of the cabin


Should you find yourself in a similar situation again, try to think to dump out the pack in the cabin and go for supplies with an empty pack.
 
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