Ask a Building Trades Professional

So here's a neat one. I happened to be at this house today and noticed a badly cracking foundation. I looked around a bit more, and it was cracking and crumbling everywhere. This is a middle upper class place, and I looked it up and it was built in 1989 and it looks like the foundation will have to be almost entirely rebuilt. :crazyeye:
 
1989? My God, seven years ago I fixed a sagging row of columns in a house built in 1889.


Check it, one of my work crews in the field was fixing a leaky pipe, c.1911, and ended up having to replace 10 feet of riser on each hot and cold as the brass fell apart as they unthreaded it!
 
Cutlass is it sulphate attack or some thing like that or bad workmanship with cold joints, uncompacted concrete, badly mixed etc.
 
I'm assuming the contractor who poured the foundation went excessively cheap and mixed the concrete badly or with far too much sand. Housing developments of that era were tossed up as fast and cheap as possible. Even the "nicer" houses that were mass built tended to be built as cheap as possible.
 
Concrete fails for a myriad of reasons, not unlike what Cutlass indicates above. One common prolem is the footings being over softer ground, or the cement truck arriving too late in the day, freezing during the concrete setting process, etc. Settling on the worksite happens the moment the workers leave the site .

The Eisenhower Highway system in the US is falling apart, and it was entirely concrete.
 
@peter grimes. Armored cable is okay -- not just emt. However, unless there has been a lot of leaking, the insulated wires inside the original cables sometimes look brand new -- the reason why the wiires in the box are so messed up is that peope have to manipulate them to replace fixtures. I have found that cutting the armored cable 12" back will reveal pristine wires. What the elecrician you saw did is also acceptable.

Hope this puts you mind at ease.

Talk to your property manager if you have questions.

:hmm:

I'm perhaps not being accurate in my terminology. I thought that Romex referred to insulated wires encased in a helical conductive sheath, as seen here:
bx.jpg


And EMT, I thought, stands for Electro-mechanical-tubing:
electrical_metal_conduit_and_related_fittings.jpg




What also happens in buildings particularly with a ceiling light fixture is that the heat from the light bulbs over 40 or 50 years can bake the wire insulate in the junction box brittle and it will break up if you move the wires at all to change the light fixture. I've run into that a few times.

Oh, of course this makes perfect sense. And this, combined with RT's reply above, does indeed set my mind at ease. Imma gonna just make sure about the smoke detectors. ;)

Of course, if you are a renter, make a repair request to your property manager -- but before you hire someone yourself, check your lease -- and if you have questions, check with a lawyer.
Yeah, I have a very good relationship with my landlord. And the last thing in the world that they want is a building fire! In fact, when the short happened, my first call was to them. And they took care of bringing in an electrician immediately. Thing is, the short was actually my fault.

Longish story, that I'd be ashamed to relate, but if you're curious I'll type it up.

In other news, we just found out that some friends of ours will be moving into the unit upstairs, so when they do the lease signing I'm sure we'll have a visit with the landlord. She grew up in the building, and she's very protective of it. Any issues that I have questions about will certainly be addressed.

Question:
Our current roof surface is that silvered tar coating. It's leaking, and will be repaired / replaced over the next few weeks. I would like to do some container gardening and telescope viewing up there - is there anything I can say to the roofers or landlord that would make my desires easy to accommodate?
 
Peter, flexible wire with a steel wrapping = BX cable. Flexible wire with a plastic cover = Romex. Wire within a rigid tube = conduit.
 
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Question:
Our current roof surface is that silvered tar coating. It's leaking, and will be repaired / replaced over the next few weeks. I would like to do some container gardening and telescope viewing up there - is there anything I can say to the roofers or landlord that would make my desires easy to accommodate?

I dont know about Yankee codes but the problem with that over here is the gap between what will clearly be fine and building codes. In the real world if you make sure the weight is distributed (eg marine ply under footings making sure no sharp nasties etc) all should be well, but since that generally won't comply with manufacturers guarantee, installers guarantee or building codes around roof terraces it could be kinder to leave the landlord plausible deniability.

Mate was getting his roof terrace recovered and wanted to get a propper handrail put in at the same time. By the time everything was signed off and approved the 90 year old terrace was 40% smaller with a whole decking floor a foot of the roof hanging from steels from the supporting walls. And they made him replace half his fire escape and put a nonsense privacy fence. So long as the joists are roof sized and the weight is distributed enough not to damage the new silver it'll be fine and invoking the nightmarish beauracracy isnt worth the pain in the bum.
 
Flat roofs are normally designed for lower loads than balconies. Once you install a handrail people will use it as a balcony.
 
Flat roofs are normally designed for lower loads than balconies. Once you install a handrail people will use it as a balcony.

a way around that is to have a platform or pathway, that is covered with spaced slats, similar to what current building codes reqire for worker access, raising the height by only 4 inches, but again with gardening containers, it would require carefull placement of any addition to spread the load... not really hard tho an engineer should be consulted. It is not that different to placing a large watertank or airconditioning unit onto an existing building.

this also avoids any direct wear to the waterproofing membrane
 
Question:
Our current roof surface is that silvered tar coating. It's leaking, and will be repaired / replaced over the next few weeks. I would like to do some container gardening and telescope viewing up there - is there anything I can say to the roofers or landlord that would make my desires easy to accommodate?

I don't know about Yankee codes but the problem with that over here is the gap between what will clearly be fire and building codes. In the real world if you make sure the weight is distributed (eg marine ply under footings making sure no sharp nasties etc) all should be well, but since that generally won't comply with manufacturers guarantee, installers guarantee or building codes around roof terraces it could be kinder to leave the landlord plausible deniability.
Thanks, GinandTonic, you are correct.
Translation: a sheathing grade plywood substrata under the roofing material will distribute weight better than the old tongue in groove sheathing that roofs were made from pre-WWII, and he screws will not pop out like the old nails will. But most roofing materials are not warrantied for use as walking surfaces or terraces, GinandTonic is saying, I believe, don't tell your landlord if you decide to do rooftop gardening, because it will void his warranty.

Flat roofs are normally designed for lower loads than balconies. Once you install a handrail people will use it as a balcony.
Correct.

Thanks to all for the input. Keep it coming.

Now, since we are both New Yorkers, I can be more specific: the fact that it is a silver-tar roof means that it is likely a coating over tar paper -- and therefore not designed for walking in general. Tar paper is not designed for foot traffic. Add to that a 1920s building will have a tongue-in-groove roof -- which will have nail pop-out problems. However, NYC building codes require flat roofs to be walkable for purposes of firefighters -- in the same vein as skylights having to be either wire glass (you know, the glass blown around a wire cage) or at least fitted with wire mesh cages to prevent firefighters from falling when they land on them. So, your roof is at least passable for a walking surface. However, I do not advise trying to place containers on a roof like that for long period of time. The weight plus water and eventual rain accumulation will cause eventual damage on a tar roof.

The only roof material I have seen used out of the box, so to speak, for walking surfaces is a hard fiberglass membrane -- very expensive and a lot of labor. One of my organization's offices has a deck designed over a roof and the simple solution there was to make is a wooden deck on top of a EPDM (rubber) roof, on top of runners that are placed on a thick rubber slip -- also very expensive (it took us a year to raise the money and do the work o the entire building.)

So, if the roof would hold up, the deck over a rubber roof would be okay -- or a hard fiberglass membrane.

Ask your landlord about what they are planning. If it is just a roof repair ont he silver tar roof, and not a new roof, forget the gardening, but you may steal a moment or two stargazing. If the landlord plans on a new roof, say you would like to do some container gardening and star-gazing -- what would that take?
 
I have a little project like this in the offing and am looking at similar issues. Flat roof over my kitchen, accessed via a velux from the attic bedroom. The velux is, I believe the technical term is buggered. So I can replace it with a top pivoting rather than centre pivoting one, perhaps even a lounger one that goes lower to the roof. This will make access far more civilised. The problem of protecting the roofing membrane is difficult one. The guy next door is a retired foreman and his solution was rubber tiles. Expensive and look awful.
 
Is it entirely flat or just a tiny pitch? One solution I've had people talk about is to deck it over with Trex.
 
was just checking the US codes and the main problem will be the spacing between rafters, typically roof rafter spacing, is larger than floor joist spacing, an average is 24'' to 16'' so any flooring/roofing material will be specified differently, the main concern will be the 32'' span often allowed for plywood in roof spacing between rafters and the 16'' span allowed for flooring, between joists, which is quite a difference, in the ability to use it for traffic.
 
Have to check that, but you don't see much 24" spacing except with manufactured roof trusses. Which wouldn't be a flat roof.
 
Have to check that, but you don't see much 24" spacing except with manufactured roof trusses. Which wouldn't be a flat roof.

only done a few jobs in the US, but just raising what will be the main problem, remember ply can span up to 32'', a common practice on flat roofs and still make a perfectly safe roof.
 
I think the flat roofs in NYC have to accommodate for snow loads. I am downloading the NYC.gov pdf on the subject and I'll get back to y'all later.
 
I think the flat roofs in NYC have to accommodate for snow loads. I am downloading the NYC.gov pdf on the subject and I'll get back to y'all later.

that's a good point I worked in Florida and Vagas... :D

I couldn't get a work permit last time when I wanted to work in NY,
(on the new World trade Centre, although I had a job waiting there...)
 
@ peter_ grimes: Okay, so the specifications are HERE and it looks like the 24" spacing is the norm, and wider spans are narrower, but in the 1920s, who knows. I can be sure that the ceiling on the top floor is NOT attached to roof rafters, so you may have a sound enough roof surface to do what cutlass, and I brought up -- a deck on top of the roof with pads protecting the membrane. THAT is a considerable thing to ask a landlord to do.

Hope this helps.
 
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