Ask a Building Trades Professional

[peter grimes]

In regards to the dinner table and chairs:
I am not a big fan of traditioal wood finishes, as I have spent weeks of my life in one room removing alligatoring varnish from old wood. Modern urethane-based finishs come in a variety of finishes that simulate the look of olf finshes, but will last a lot longer.

For best results, all of the old finish should come of.

The surface should be sealed with a universal sealer (where permitted) -- a dewaxed shellac that forms a bridge between the old material and the new poly.

If you are taking about a DAILY-use table and chairs, your best bet is a modern high solids (VOC, or Volatile organic content of 350 to 450 grams per liter) polyurethane. If you are in California, USA, the laws do not permit certain volatile chemicals, so be prepared to lose the use for at least 72 hours after the final coat.

Use a semi-gloss finish, since the daily handling and sitting will keep the surface buffed.

For more occasional uses, I guess the same applies, but you can use a lower VOC (350 gpl) poly.

I can confirm this is spot-on. That said, I *am* a fan of traditional finishes. But not for heavy use surfaces like floors or eating surfaces. I think chairs - depending on the design and material - look better without a film finish. But that's likely just my personal preference.

I fell into woodworking, restoration, repair, and reproduction via my job.

One last point I'll add, is that I don't care for the water-bourne urethanes. They appear very plasticky - not water clear, like a true oil-based urethane. My uncle used the quick drying water-bourne stuff on his new fir kitchen floors and I think they look awful. Too bad, because the flooring itself is gorgeous.

And that's the thing about a finish: You can ruin a perfect project by not executing a good finish.

Since we're talking about finishes (and refinishing), it's also important to remember that proper surface preparation is the foundation of a good finish. If you can't scrape the surface glass smooth, then you'll have to sand it. If you're using a power sander, make sure it's either random orbit or you're sanding with the grain - never across it. Sand up through the grits to 200ish. Then you'll need to raise the grain by washing the surface with a sealer (like RT mentioned above) or even a damp cloth. Let the surface dry, then come back in with 200ish grit again to knock the little hairs off that were just raised. You can't really ever go wrong by going to higher and higher grits at this point.

I like to use a belt sander or random orbit for the grits through 120, then I switch to hand sanding with a cork pad for the higher grits. I use stearated paper (it resists buildup). Again, always sand with the grain.

Random orbit sanders are for surface preparation only - if you have to remove material, they are the wrong tool for the job. That's the belt sander's job.



And now for a question for the Building Tradesman:
The building I live in was built in 192x. The wiring has me really scared. We had a short* in the box over the kitchen ceiling light, and the electrician who repaired it had to 'macaroni' some insulation onto the wire, since the existing insulation was crumbling away to nothing.

What's involved with redoing the wiring? Do the walls have to be opened up, or can new romex be snaked in behind the walls? The fragility of the insulation inside the walls is a source of anxiety for me.

 

[ReindeerThistle]

Thank you, peter, for the exposition on woodwork finishes. I endorse it and lurkers and posters to this thread should know that -- with one disclaimer: If you are going to do any sanding, where respriaor masks -- Niosh N100 is acceptacle for all old finishs and wear eye protection, like chemical-proof goggles, and gloves. Always work in well-ventilated areas.

I have found limited uses for water-borne polys, especially for repairing scratches in pre-fnished wood floorong, and when I have the perfect stan match -- as the water-borne finishes dry clear and don't ellow.


RE: The electrician I work with, whose father was one of the electricians who helped write the National Electric Codes, says that romex is not code in NYC -- unless it is run through metal conduit. BX, or armored cable, is the minimum code.

However, the good news is that wiring s not either/ or viz. opening up the walls. The electrician my property manager used to hire wanted 16" square openings around each 4" ceiling outlet box, whereas I can re-wire around a 4-1/2" hole. So, it varies. I prefer the minimally invasive wiring, myself, but there are instances, such as when running cables through studs, where you have to take out some of the walls.

Consult with a licensed electrician, and get three estimates. Make sure they know what you are looking for, and can access the electrica service to determine how much amperage is coming into the building.

I prefer 15-amp circuits with 12-gauge solid wiring, even though NEC says 14-gauge is sufficient fr 15-amp circuits, I like to lean on he safe side.

 

[CKS]

That's shoddy construction. I'm thinking along the lines of removing drywall due to extensive water damage and finding the source: a garden hose with some o-rings feeding a shower. That's my best that comes to mind right now. Doesn't beat a caulked stack though.

When we fixed up our old house to sell it, we replaced the '70s era shag carpet in the family room with laminate. When we ripped out the carpet, we were dismayed to discover that whoever had converted the garage into a family room had just run the electric across the floor and covered it up with carpet. It wasn't in a conduit or anything, just the electric cable going through the middle of the room, laying on the concrete with carpet on top.

Anyway, on to a question:
I'm looking at a house that has a stone exterior; I'm guessing it is a facade over a wood frame. How big of a pain would it be for someone (not me) to cut a new doorway through this?

 

[ReindeerThistle]

When we fixed up our old house to sell it, we replaced the '70s era shag carpet in the family room with laminate. When we ripped out the carpet, we were dismayed to discover that whoever had converted the garage into a family room had just run the electric across the floor and covered it up with carpet. It wasn't in a conduit or anything, just the electric cable going through the middle of the room, laying on the concrete with carpet on top.

Anyway, on to a question:
I'm looking at a house that has a stone exterior; I'm guessing it is a facade over a wood frame. How big of a pain would it be for someone (not me) to cut a new doorway through this?

Well, CKS, that's lucky you found that before the buyers did!


Regarding your stone exterior: don't assume it's over wood studs. Check the municipal records to see if there are any plans on record. If it is stone over a wood frame -- what we call veneer -- you're talking about cutting 4 - 6 inches of stone. FYI, it may be brick. It is not likely to be solid stone -- unless you're buying a castle.


It is certainly easier to put a door in a wood frame house -- they would start from the inside, installing a header to hold the superincumbent weight, but be warned, the contractor may have to cut an opening in the stone bigger than the doorway, and repairing that would have to be in the contract.

As for brick -- much harder, since the brick itself handles the overhead weight, they might have to install the header -- or lintel -- first, then bust out the brick. It's quite messy. That's why stone/ masonry contractors get the big bucks.

Hope that helps. Thanks for the query.

 

[ReindeerThistle]

Edit: Oops, posted same reply twice.

 

[CKS]

Hope that helps. Thanks for the query.

It does. Thanks!

 

[peter grimes]

RE: The electrician I work with, whose father was one of the electricians who helped write the National Electric Codes, says that romex is not code in NYC -- unless it is run through metal conduit. BX, or armored cable, is the minimum code.

However, the good news is that wiring s not either/ or viz. opening up the walls. The electrician my property manager used to hire wanted 16" square openings around each 4" ceiling outlet box, whereas I can re-wire around a 4-1/2" hole. So, it varies. I prefer the minimally invasive wiring, myself, but there are instances, such as when running cables through studs, where you have to take out some of the walls.

Consult with a licensed electrician, and get three estimates. Make sure they know what you are looking for, and can access the electrica service to determine how much amperage is coming into the building.

I prefer 15-amp circuits with 12-gauge solid wiring, even though NEC says 14-gauge is sufficient fr 15-amp circuits, I like to lean on he safe side.

To be clear, I'm in a rental and I don't do anything inside walls. And it scares me even more hearing that all wiring should be encased in EMT, knowing that certainly none of the stuff in our kitchen ceiling is!

 

[ReindeerThistle]

@peter grimes. Armored cable is okay -- not just emt. However, unless there has been a lot of leaking, the insulated wires inside the original cables sometimes look brand new -- the reason why the wiires in the box are so messed up is that peope have to manipulate them to replace fixtures. I have found that cutting the armored cable 12" back will reveal pristine wires. What the elecrician you saw did is also acceptable.

Hope this puts you mind at ease.

Talk to your property manager if you have questions.

 

[Cutlass]

What also happens in buildings particularly with a ceiling light fixture is that the heat from the light bulbs over 40 or 50 years can bake the wire insulate in the junction box brittle and it will break up if you move the wires at all to change the light fixture. I've run into that a few times.

 

[ReindeerThistle]

Oh, right, of course. The closer the light bulbs are to the box, the more this happens.
Thanks, Cutlass.

 

[Cutlass]

BTW, I had an earlier THREAD somewhat similar to this one.

 

[emzie]

Today, I went to do a simple job of removing wallpaper and painting 2 bathrooms. LOL, NOPE. Genius applied the ugliest vinyl wallpaper I'd ever seen directly to the drywall. I have nothing to ask, I just wanted some sympathy.

 

[Cutlass]

Today, I went to do a simple job of removing wallpaper and painting 2 bathrooms. LOL, NOPE. Genius applied the ugliest vinyl wallpaper I'd ever seen directly to the drywall. I have nothing to ask, I just wanted some sympathy.

 

[ReindeerThistle]

Today, I went to do a simple job of removing wallpaper and painting 2 bathrooms. LOL, NOPE. Genius applied the ugliest vinyl wallpaper I'd ever seen directly to the drywall. I have nothing to ask, I just wanted some sympathy.

You have my sympathy. Count this in the Craziest Bad/ Lazy Jobs I've ever seen encyclopedia.

BTW, I had an earlier THREAD somewhat similar to this one.

I was looking to see if someone else had one, looked in The Chamber, because I thought that's where something like this belomged -- didn't look in the general "Off Topic.". I saw your basement, very nice. Feel free, of course, the do as you've done -- add in your practical experience and answer questions. That was my hope in starting this -- to draw out some building trades and home improvement people, not just shae my own experience.

 

[Masada]

The previous owners of this house tried to tart it up before selling. One of their genius ideas was to paint enamel paint on top of acrylic paint without any prep work. By the time they got around to selling it, the bright pink, purple and red enamel paint was coming off in huge sheets, revealing the green, yellow and orange acrylic beneath. It also happened to come off in places like the kitchen where there were obvious grease stains. All in an all, I reckon the paint problem lost them $15-20k from the value of the house. It also cost me like 6 months of weekends fixing up all their mistakes e.g. pool "water" you could almost walk on.

 

[Old Hippy]

Sounds like they wanted the "Shabby Chic Distressed' look

 

[ReindeerThistle]

Oh, yeah, another fine example of Craziest Bad/ Lazy Jobs I've Ever Seen!

 

[Masada]

The saddest part is that the previous owner did not get where he'd gone wrong. I feel sorry for the paint people he ate out for giving him "bad paint"

 

[emzie]

To be clear, I'm in a rental and I don't do anything inside walls. And it scares me even more hearing that all wiring should be encased in EMT, knowing that certainly none of the stuff in our kitchen ceiling is!

Shouldn't you just be able to make a complaint to the property owner/manager and they're required by law to fix it? Or if they don't fix it, you can pay an electrician and deduct that amount from your rent?

 

[ReindeerThistle]

To be clear, I'm in a rental and I don't do anything inside walls. And it scares me even more hearing that all wiring should be encased in EMT, knowing that certainly none of the stuff in our kitchen ceiling is!

Shouldn't you just be able to make a complaint to the property owner/manager and they're required by law to fix it? Or if they don't fix it, you can pay an electrician and deduct that amount from your rent?

Of course, if you are a renter, make a repair request to your property manager -- but before you hire someone yourself, check your lease -- and if you have questions, check with a lawyer.