Confederate Culinaria:
The Deep South:
It is often said that the border with Maryland is the last place one can get good barbeque, though, undoubtedly there are some to the north who would disagree. The Confederate States boast three distinct styles of Barbeque, one of which is centered in North Carolina. Almost exclusively pork based, Atlantic Style Barbeque is known for vinegar based sauces, varying from almost exclusively vinegar in the east to a more robust tomato and spicy-sweet sauces towards the west. The cuts of meat usually barbequed are the Ribs, on the rack, and Butts (shoulder,) which makes a pulled pork, usually eaten in sandwiches. On special occasions, rural farmers may get together for a “pig-pickin’” where a whole pig is roasted in a pit.
Some regions of Virginia are well known for their Country Hams, which are protected by state law. These hams are salt-cured, and then smoked with cherry or apple wood, and finally left to age for anywhere between a few months and three years. Country hams are often cooked by boiling in several changes of water, and then pan frying lightly, just enough to brown the exteriors and warm up the meat. Some purists insist that the dry, salty, moldy crust must be eaten, but most people agree that the harder edges must be pared off before eaten. Often times, a red-eye gravy will be prepared with the drippings, as well as some Grits.
Hominy Grits, or just grits, may be the most quintessential culinary offering of the CSA, bar none, and nowhere is this more true than in the Atlantic and Deep south regions of the nation. Grits are, at it’s most fundamental, dried corn treated with Alkali and with the germ removed. These are ground, traditionally on a stone wheel, and prepared by boiling for in 5-6 times their volume in liquid, traditionally salted water or broth, but occasionally milk. They are typically seasoned with salt and pepper, and generous amounts of butter, but occasionally, grits are prepared with cheese, or with some sort of cooked or cured meats. In the Southern parts of the Atlantic region, Grits are served with Shrimp, in the quintessential “Shrimp and Grits.” Leftover grits can then be fried in animal fat to make “Grit Cakes.”
The Atlantic Regions are very well known for seafood, with crabs, clams, oysters, and haddock being served near the shore. Most times, this seafood is fried, and served with a tartare sauce, but can also be prepared in fried cakes, most famous of which are crab cakes. In the Tidewaters of the Carolinas and of Georgia, people eat stews in social gatherings very similar to the “boils” of Louisiana, usually involving shrimp, corn on the cob, sausage, red potatoes, sometimes ham. Known variously as Frogmore Stew, a Beaufort boil, a Lowcountry boil, or a tidewater boil, they tend to be a bit milder than their Louisiana cousins. Frog legs are eaten throughout the south, and considered a delicacy.
Stews tend to be relatively common away from the coasts as well. In the colder months, they are thick, hearty, most often prepared with root vegetables and small game meat.
Sausages are incredibly common throughout the region, with all kinds of meat (Anything from Beef and Pork to wild game to snake and even alligator) and flavorings making their way into the hog casings. Unlike sausages in many other parts of the world, Confederate Sausages almost always have both meat as well as a fruit (usually cooked apples or dried berries) to sweeten the meat.
Chicken also holds a soft place in the hearts of southerners, being prepared in soups, with thick bready “dumplings,” or being breaded and deep fried in oil. It is also not uncommon for whole chicken to be seasoned inside and out, placed on a rotating skewer, and roasted over an open flame.
The Flora of the Deep South Region, culinarily speaking, is also quite varied. Confederate Farmers produce a large variety of greens, vegetables, roots, and Fruit. Perhaps one of the most well known vegetable dishes are “Collard Greens,” which has spread from the slave quarters of backwoods plantations into the highest restaurants of Savannah. Large leafy greens (Sometimes mixed with or replaced with other leafy greens like Kale, Turnip Greens, or Swiss Chard, cooked with a small amount of a salty, fatty meat (Such as Ham Hock, Turkey Necks, or Bacon) as well as a bit of vinegar, sugar, salt, and spices. Corn on the Cob is often served as well, though rarely in the homes of the wealthy. It is often roasted over an open flame or boiled, then slathered with butter, salt, and sometimes spice, and then eaten, the soft and sweet kernels bitten off the hard, inedible core. Tomatoes, Onions, Ramps, and Okra are also commonly found on plates across the south, either as part of another dish, or sliced and served raw. (Even the Sweet vidalia onions can be served sliced and raw.)
Nuts abound in the Deep South, both tree nuts and ground nuts. Peanuts were native to the Americas. The most common use, however, originates with African Slaves, who replaced in their recipes a similar nut common in west africa with the peanut. The most obvious example of these is the Peanut Soup, which is served hot in the slave huts and cold in the plantation houses. Peanuts are also boiled and eaten soft, Roasted and salted, or even deep-fried. Tree nuts, such as Walnuts, Pecans, and Almonds, can be served candied, or ground into a breading for catfish or pork, or made into the filling for a pie.
Many Root vegetables are grown in the south, and served in different ways depending on the variety. Carrots are often lightly candied, cooked in butter and brown sugar and served as an accompaniment to meats, while potatoes and other tubers are often roasted or mashed.
Fruit truly showcases the variety of foods in the deep south, from sweet and crisp apples in the north to the juicy peaches of Georgia to apricots and fig groves in Alabama, to berries and melons in gardens nationwide. The Pawpaw of the atlantic coast is a delicate fruit that most outside of the region will never try, as it will not ship, but is unique in many ways, a strange combination of custard, mango, and banana. The Maypaw of the southern bayous is known to produce the most delicious jam in the world, while the American Persimmon, distinct from its asian counterpart, does not bear the same astringency, but instead has a taste like that of a firm apricot. The Japanese Lowcat has recently spread from New Orleans into orchards of Alabama and Mississippi, and, though the fruit is still a novelty, it has found it’s place in the repertoire of many a confederate housewife, in Jams, in Tarts, in Fruit Salads, even in buckets of moonshine and hooch.
While unfortunately for many outside of the CSA, most varieties of native fruit are too delicate to ship, and so are impossible to taste fresh, fortunately, one of the keenest culinary traditions of the south are preserves: fruit boiled with sugar until the natural pectins within make a thick and gelatinous. While every housewife has her own recipe for preserves, there are some traits that unify most confederate preserves, both those produced at home and those produced commercially. Confederate preserves are known for their relatively large chunks of fruit and relative purity: It is rare for a confederate preserve to mix different varieties of fruit. By the last decade of the 1800s, confederate preserves were being exported and sold almost around the world. Japan became a ready market, as did Italy, Poland, and Great Britain, sailors enjoying the fruit flavors after weeks at sea.
The Deep south has a soft spot for desserts and sweets. Perhaps the most ubiquitous of these delicacies of the South is the Pie. Pecan, Sugar, Molasses, or Fruit, pie recipes are as numerous as the cooks of the south. Everyone, from the poor backwoods grandmother, to the free black woman to the plantation’s house cook, has her own recipe she swears by, her own pie dough proportions (butter, flour, salt, and water can be combined in myriads of different ways), her own fillings, and her own method for covering the pie, whether it’s a lattice of dough, a simple flat layer covering the filling, an intricate construction of dough, or even a bare top.
Similar to pies, cobblers (and crisps and crumbles) fill an important role in confederate deserts. Less common amongst the elite, the cobbler is a symbol of the poor white farmer or factory worker. Cobblers consist of a few layers of fruit (often peach, apple, lowcat, or berries) baked with a layer of dough. Crisps and crumbles mix oats into the batter.
Despite the position pies and cobblers hold in the confederate zeitgeist, they are by no means the only sweet. In Kentucky, for example, cream candies are common, similar to the Tire of Quebec, or the Taffy of the North East. Confederate chocolatiers work with Bourbon, Cordials, and Candied fruit to make truffles, and Divinity, a nougat-like sweet made from Corn (or Cane) syrup, egg whites, sugar, and sometimes milk. Puddings also abound as desserts, often in the poorer regions. Unrecognizable to a traveling Brit hoping for more familiar cakelike pudding, Confederate (and American puddings as a whole) are much creamier. Confederates enjoy corn, banana, chocolate, chickory, and rice puddings, all of which are often eaten cool, or cold.
New Orleans/Mississippi:
New Orleans is the most diverse area of the confederacy, an interface of cultures so different it’s a wonder they get along. Spanish, Anglo-American, Caribbean Creole, Cajun, Japanese, and African cultures meld and mesh, and their cuisines have synthesized into something unique in the world.
The first European Settlers in New Orleans were the French, in the late 18th century, and by the time the spanish took dominion of the region, and intermingled with the french and african slaves that both had brought, a distinct Creole identity had been created, a fusion of their respective flavor profiles. Like Spanish and French Cuisine, Creole cuisine tends to be based on thick and flavorful sauces, though, unlike the french, Creole sauces boast robust flavors drawn from West African seasonings.
Cajun immigrants, acadians from canada, expelled by the british, in the late 18th century, brought their own culinary traditions, also descended from French, though distinct from creole. Eschewing the sharp flavors of their creole cousins, Cajun cuisine tends towards the more Rustic, heavy, hearty foods. Cajun cooks favor garlic, onion, and file powder (itself adopted from local native americans) over more spicy flavorings.
Though the Japanese are recent immigrants to the area, they have already had a significant impact on the cuisine of the new orleans, importing myriads of new ingredients to the area. The Makeup of the early days of the Chrysanthemum district was of a number of rich Japanese merchant families that imported a significant japanese retinue: Laborers, craftsmen, and cooks. Fascinated by the flavors of the deep south, Japanese cooks adapted the local Creole cuisine to Japanese tastes, and vice versa. Sweet Tea found a Green Tea equivalent, and Japanese chefs adapted the noodle soups of their homelands to the ingredients of the area: noodles in thick, fatty broth were made of corn, and became much thicker than those of their homelands, with fried porkchops as the main protein. This “Suimono” became a food of choice amongst laborers, and Fat and sweet ruled king for the chefs of the Japanese district. Japanese-Creole (Or Numajin) cuisine quickly spread outside of the Chrysanthemum district, as enterprising japanese opened restaurants in the docks districts, serving suimono to tired laborers. The Japanese also adopted their traditional fish dishes with local ingredients, oysters (which existed in Japan) supplanting clams (which were much rarer in New Orleans) and Mahi-Mahi replacing Tuna.
Despite its newfound appeal, and aside for one significant, utterly massive change - the replacement of the traditional cornmeal breading with a lighter tempura breading in most dishes aside for chicken, the new Numajin cuisine didn’t dramatically impact the majority of the greater New Orleans community. Most continued to eat what they had been eating for generations.
The most significant food groups in the New Orleans area had always been Seafood. Existing on the interface between a river, a marsh, and the ocean, the people of new orleans had always had access to a wide variety of freshwater and saltwater ingredients.
Shrimp and Oysters are the predominant saltwater Seafoods eaten. Oysters were eaten raw, cracked open and sprinkled with a mignonette sauce, or breaded and fried, or, in the case of many fishermen, skewered raw between chunks of half cooked bacon, and roasted over an open flame. Shrimp, on the other hand, tended to be used in thick stews, whether it be the flavorful creole Gumbo or a simple Boil, or fried and placed in a sandwich. The Freshwaters offered Crawfish (or Mudbugs) and catfish, among others. Catfish is often prepared blackened, a layer of seasoning and spice on the outside, and flash fried in a red-hot cast iron skillet, charring the outside black. Crawfish, on the other hand, has a large variety of different methods of preparation, from a simply boil, with corn and potatoes, to an etouffer, where the crawfish are “drowned” in a thick and spicy roux based sauce, and served over rice or grits.
Gumbo deserves a special mention, being the most famous creole dish of New Orleans. Possibly tracing it’s roots to Choctaw dishes, Gumbo is a thick roux-based stew that uses culinary techniques of Spain, West Africa, France, and, surprisingly, German. First, Meat (usually sausages or ham) is browned, and then taken off the heat, and something similar is done with the Okra. In the pan, then, are placed the Holy Trinity, the aromatics: Onion, Bell Peppers, and Celery. When those are cooked enough, the ingredients for the roux are added. When that thickens, a thick broth is poured over it, and the meat and Okra (and any other vegetables) are added back, and simmered until the meats are tender. As seafood cooks more quickly, and become inedible if added too early, it is added just before the end of the cooking process. Most Gumbos also use File Powder, which is dried leaves of the sassafras tree, and spicy sauces.
The Rice and Beans that exist throughout the Caribbean also have a variant in New Orleans. Red Kidney beans are used instead of the Black Beans of the Antilles, and the array of spices is very different. The Beans are simmered slowly with hocks of ham, or Andouille sausages as well as the Holy Trinity, and then served over white rice.
Sweets play a key role in the cuisine of the New Orleans, as they do in the rest of the south. Beignets, a sweet choux dough that is fried and sprinkled with powdered sugar, are the common weekend breakfasts of most wealthy New Orleans people, and the poor enjoy it in on holidays and special occasions. The Summer heat of New Orleans has also pushed people to create cooler desserts and treats, including the snowball, from ice imported from far away. The ice is shaved roughly and the “snow” is then covered in a sweet fruit syrup, creating a cold desert.
Finally, it’d be impossible to discuss Deserts in New Orleans without discussing the Praline. With it’s roots in the Praline of France, the confection was imported to New Orleans by settlers looking for a taste of “La Patrie.” New Orleans Praline bears some distinction from its ancestor, though, using Almonds instead of Pecans, and with the addition of Cream or Buttermilk to the creation process. The Abundance of Sugar and Almond trees in New Orleans has allowed the Praline to be one of the key candies of the area.
Caribbean:
For the Purpose of this discussion, the Caribbean refers to both the states Acquired during and after the Atlantic War and to Florida, which had been part of the American culinary complex for decades. It is safe to assume that many of the techniques, flavors, and ingredients common in Florida are also common in the States of Antilles, Cuba, and the Bahamian Territories.
The Antilles has a strong dichotomy between two distinct styles that coexist, sometimes even in the same meal. For the sake of ease, these are occasionally referred to as “coastal” and “inland” styles, but, though there is a slight geographic association, one is just as likely to find something like Cocido, emblematic of inland cuisine, on the coast, as one is to find marinated Casava up in the inlands of Antilles or Cuba.
The thousands of miles of coast in the Caribbean region provide a significant portion of the diets of the coast. Fish and shellfish are either cooked quickly over high heat, keeping them light, or “cooked” with lime-juice, creating a ceviche of sorts, such as the bahamian Conch Salad. Cooked dishes are most often served with tropical fruit, either fresh, or prepared in some sort of mildly spicy salsa. The sweet, cool, food helps cut the muggy heat of the southern reaches of the CSA. Aesthetically, the coastal techniques emphasize simple presentation over ostentatious ones.
The Introduction of ingredients from south east asia, through Japan, though still young, has also had an impact, increasing the variety of ingredients, and introducing traditional sushi preparations to coastal farmers, fishermen, and city dwellers.
In contrast, the island foods are heavier, heartier, and made with ingredients readily available to the poor far from the ocean, and which take a while to cook, so that they can be set on the heat in the morning and prepared to eat in the evening. This includes the ever-present Arroz con Gandules, or Rice and Beans, Cocido, Sancocho, Piccadilo, and even Ropa Vieja, which, though similar to the Pulled Pork of the deep south, has a very different flavor profile (it should be noted, however, that much of the elite and even middle class, have adopted the Confederate techniques for many cuisines.)
The Caribbean have a strong cured meat tradition, stemming from the historic spanish rule. Dried sausages, prosciutto, and even cured hams, hybridizing the virginia country ham traditions with the fine cured meats of spain, a Hamon Virginia. Some experts argue that the Hamon Virginia rivals some jamon Ibericos, or even some Jamon Serranos. Dry Sausages, both traditional Caribbean Sausages (Such as as Chorizo, Botifarra, and Andouilles) and Modified American style (with fruit in the mix,) are now common throughout the area, and even exported, as meat that does not spoil even after months of travel is extremely valuable.
There are regional distinctions between the various parts of the Caribbean, of course. Antilles and Cuba have a much greater native american, specifically Taino, influence than either the Bahamas or Florida, while Florida is much closer to the greater American culinary complex. The Native influence in Caribbean Cuisine is best seen in the use of Tubers, most especially Cassava, which is processed and ground to make thin wafer-like crackers. The vast majority of the spices used in Caribbean cuisine were raised by the Taino, as were a large variety of fruit, such as Soursop, Mango, Guavas, and Pineapples, all of which were used extensively. Unlike mainland Native tribes, Maiz was not used commonly, vulnerable as it is to hurricanes. The Original Spanish Colonists as well as the African Slaves who were brought in to replace the Dying Taino, learned much from the Taino, adopting their knowledge to new practices and flavors.
Mofongo is a dish that is quintessentially a hybrid between Taino cuisine and that of West African slaves. In west africa, Fufu is made with any kind of starchy root, but in the Caribbean, Mofongo is exclusively made with plantains, which are mashed and fried, often with salt, pork, and oil.
Caribbean Barbeque, or Barbacoa, is distinct from either other American styles, in that it does not use a sauce, but rather only a Dry Rub. In addition, most Caribbean barbeque is prepared as small chunks of meat (Pork chops, or quartered chickens, or, since the confederate takeover, Turkey) cooked ever a mesh of green shoots or sticks, providing the smoke flavor through the heating of the wet wood. Barbaoa, or Lehon, is also common, and consists of a whole animal, split down the belly and slowly roasted in a pit over an open flame, which is then covered with banana leaves, retaining heat. This tends to be a social event, with whole villages getting together with more than one animal being grilled.
Breads and Pastries are also extremely common throughout the Islands, and through migrants, to Florida, which does not itself have much of a baking tradition. Bread in the Islands comes from Cuba, their techniques supplanting whatever may have existed before it’s introduction. Cuban Breads are long and thin, with a hard, thing, flaky crust and a soft interior. It’s distinctive air pockets are a relic of the stretching process, which was designed to make less dough create more bread. Before the baking process, a wet palmetto frond is laid across the top and removed after, creating a depression similar to that caused by the slashing of European style loafs. Many sandwiches use this bread, though, unlike the laborers of the Continental CSA, they are not the food of choice for laborers bringing lunch into the field or factory. Instead, Caribbean laborers eat empanadas, deep fried packets of flaky dough, with a delicious filling inside. The insides are as varied as the people who eat them, using leftover meats, vegetables, cheeses, and even fruit. Though best when eaten fresh, they are still good later in the day.
Desserts in the Caribbean also follow the dichotomy expressed by the rest of it’s cuisine. Many people simply drink fresh fruit or cane juice, cooling and sweet. At the other end of the spectrum is Dulce de Leche, a sweet made through slowly reducing milk, so that it concentrates and caramelizes. Some regions add some spices to the process, and others add honey, but the bulk of the flavor will come from the caramelization of the milk sugars. Pastelitos are also common throughout the region. These baked puff-pastry recipes are traditionally filled with a slightly sweetened cream cheese and with a fruit paste, usually guava, but occasionally pinapple, mango, or soursop. Lychee, introduced by the Japanese, is also being increasingly used.
Southwest:
Like the food of the Caribbean, the food in the Southwest has two distinct regions. The first is Texan, which is a hybrid of Mexican cuisine and of Deep South. The Second is Cherokee. Though there are ingredients in common, the two do not readily mix.
Texas is the heartland of the third great Barbeque Tradition. Unlike either of the other two, Texan BBQ focuses primarily on beef, and most specifically, on the Beef Brisket, which is often seasoned with a dry rub and smoked slowly in a pit. Almost as common are beef ribs, which tend to be slathered in a thick molasses based sauce and smoked over mesquite until the meat practically falls off the bone. In the south of Texas, near the border with Mexico, Ranch Hands also developed a third technique. Often paid with lesser cuts of meat (such as the Head or Diaphragm of the cow) Texan ranchers cook the meat the same way mexican Rancheros on the other side of the border do. They would wrap the Head in wet agave leaves after seasoning it and buried in a pit of hot coals for a few hours. The meat would fall off the bone, and often would be eaten on a tortillas. Unlike in the rest of the CSA, BBQ is not served with coleslaw.
The Head “barbacoa” is not the only mexican influence on texan cuisine. Ranch hands prepare arrachetas from the Diaphragm, again a cheap meat, of the cow, frying it on a skillet with onions and peppers. This is then wrapped in a corn tortilla and easily eaten on the road. Other “Tex-Mex” foods include tamales, burritos, chimichangas, and quesadillas, all foods that are relatively easy to carry out on the range. This practicality without sacrificing flavor is common amongst texans, and perhaps evidenced in what has quickly become the most quintessentially texan food.
The Hamburger, a fried meat patty served with mustard and onion between two halves of a brioche bun, and with a pickle on the side, now recognizable in almost all cities of the CSA, was invested in Athens Texas by a man named Fletcher Davis. So named, he claims, for its relation to german meat patties, introduced to the CSA by German investors and laborers, the Hamburger is both delicious and filling, allowing a man to work long hours and enjoy his meal on the go. Though the first hamburgers were sold between two slices of bread, and in many places still are, the development of the “Hamburger bun” made this portable meal even more portable.
Cherokee cuisine, on the other hand, tends towards simple and rustic, and focuses on the “three sisters” emblematic of Native American Agriculture: Corn, beans, and Squash. Often, corn would be ground and made into cakes, which were grilled on an open flame, similar to the Arepas of South America. Meats, hunted and domesticated, including rabbit, deer, pork, and Turkey, are often also grilled. (Some records indicate that Turkey was being domesticated by the ancestors of the Cherokee nearly a millenia ago.)
Apples play a large part in cherokee cuisine, eaten fresh, dried, or baked in pies and tart. Berries are also an important part of their flavor profile, providing tartness and sweetness that is otherwise hard to come by. Cherokee children enjoy as a treat Kamanuchi, a dessert made with hickory nuts. The nuts are allowed to dry, then pounded into a rough paste, which is then allowed to dry, before being boiled until it has the consistency of thick cream, and used to prepare a sweet hominy or rice porridge.
Cherokee cuisine, however, is starting to fade, as the Cherokee have taken strongly to the Cuisine of the deep south.
Other:
There are two regions that are not impactful enough to the greater Confederate Culinary complex, but still unique enough to merit discussion.
The Foods of the Appalachian Mountains are similar at first glance to that of the rest of the deep south, but, upon closer inspection prove to be unique and remarkable. Appalachian cooks make do with what they have to produce meals of incredible complexity. Fermentation is often used, making Sauerkraut from cabbage, as well as “leather britches” long beans, sour corn from corn, and even fermented beans. The fermentation adds a layer of complexity, while allowing the food to be preserved for much longer.
That instinct for preservation is key to survival in the appalachians, as the short growing season meant that all foods need to be preserved in one manner or another. Meat, even small game like squirrel and raccoon, is smoked, and fruit are turned into Jams and Jellies. Apples are made into Apple Butter.
Finally, the most unique traits of appalachia cuisine is salt. Brine drawn from deep underground is allowed to dry, forming a pure white crystal with a cleaner flavor than salt produced from the ocean.
The Food of Gabon is a hybrid of Portuguese, Deep South, and West African. The relative social mobility of the Gabon colonies has allowed the melding of their respective foods. Chickens are roasted and smoked with Southern and African spices, and beignets are eaten with condensed coconut milk. Atlantic Style Barbeque has spread to the Gabon, but instead of wine or cider vinegar, it is palm that is used to make the sauce, and Seafood is blackened or made into stews, as do the people of New Orleans.