Vast empty spaces are not to everyone's liking, but the Serengeti so vast and beautiful. Then the animals appear.
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Destination Africa: Tanzania
- Thread starter Birdjaguar
- Start date
Young bull elephant.
Then it was off to Kati Kati for the night.
Then it was off to Kati Kati for the night.
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Central Serengeti: For less wind noise, turn off the sound.
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For many critters getting close is a problem either because they just run away or it is not wise to do.
For others, proximity is not a problem. This cheetah mom has three young kittens.
For others, proximity is not a problem. This cheetah mom has three young kittens.
After some time under the tree, moma thought it might be time to go hunting.
Later that day.
Spoiler :
We spent a couple of hours waiting for a leopard to appear. It was feasting on a kill on the ground beneath a tree, but refused to show itself so we gave up and headed to the camp. there were other vehicles there that came and went. Some stayed after we left.
Sunset at the camp:
Sunset at the camp:
While hanging out prior to dinner I struck up a conversation about our failed attempt to see the leopard. He was a guy from AZ and told me that he was there too but had stayed pretty long and saw the leopard. He snapped a picture or two when it climbed the tree with its kill. He sent it to me. The dead animal is behind the cat to the right. He had a telephoto lens.
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While hyenas are common, we rarely saw any. I heard them at night though. Here is one I caught making its way across our path.
And some impalas.
This was my last day in the Central Serengeti and the next morning we left Kati Kati camp for the Northern Serengeti.
And some impalas.
This was my last day in the Central Serengeti and the next morning we left Kati Kati camp for the Northern Serengeti.
At this time of year the Great migration of wildebeests and zebras is in the norther Serengeti making their way towards Kenya. On the map below Kati Kati camp was just to the right of the word "Apr" and my guide and I explored the area around the words "Serengeti national Park". You can see the location of the Ngorongoro Crater in the lower right. This ongoing migration of 1.5 million wildebeests and zebras follows the rain and never actually stops. The herds can stretch 40 km long and almost as wide as they make their way around the circuit. The predators do not migrate with the herds, but have their own territories and wait for the herds to arrive. There are always critters around for them catch. The migration just makes it much easier. You will note that the crater is outside of the migration path but the grass eaters can and do come and go from its walled garden. You will notice that the Kenya side is much smaller and has a much more limited calendar option. If you choose to cross the border in either direction an additional visa is required.
The next few posts are about getting to the Northern Serengeti. To do so we had to leave the Park. This map shows how we went. From Kati Kati we drove to the park exit near Fort Ikoma, lower red circle. We drove through Ft. Ikoma and to the town of Mugumu, the blue circle, for fuel and water to drink and re entered the park at the Tabora B Gate, red circle. This area is outside the Park but still has protections. As you will see much of it looks like the rest of rural Tanzania. For scale it is about 25 miles from Ft Ikoma to Mugumu. Mugumu did have some paved roads in the town.
Exiting the Serengeti at Fort Ikoma.
The Impala Hotel and perhaps a restaurant.
The Impala Hotel and perhaps a restaurant.
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One of the open air guide vehicles.
Fueling up in Mugumu.
Mugumu Filling station and it street. That is my guide Penuel in the white shirt.
Mugumu Filling station and it street. That is my guide Penuel in the white shirt.
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These videos are all clips while driving from Fort Ikoma through Mugumu to the entrance to the Northern Serengeti. They are are all similar. You may notice that in some you see strange little house like structures without doors or windows or even roofs. In Tanzania they build their new houses piecemeal as they get money. Build the floor; add walls with holes for doors and windows; add a roof; step by step until complete. It can take many months.
Mugumu Street
More roads.
More roads.
One last road trip...
We entered the Northern Serengeti before lunch.
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In the Northern Serengeti at this time of year the emptiness I experienced changes. Here is the Grumeti river in the dry season. It is one of the rivers the herds have to cross.
The Mara river is the last obstacle for the herds as they cross from Tanzania to Kenya. The pressure from the back of the herds pushes the those critters at the front towards and then over the river. It is a process that takes weeks and includes some back and forth. The herds were just reaching the edges of the Mara River as I got there. I was a week or two too early to see the crossing. 
Here is the river; pardon my wayward fingers.
Here is the river; pardon my wayward fingers.
