Ask a Building Trades Professional

[peter grimes]

The only way I could imagine this being intentional is if the thing was used as a work in progress for a film or TV show. Sort of a "Crazy neighbor builds something in his backyard that the protagonist checks in on every few days". But that's implausible, as the grips would almost certainly use paslode or air tools to secure the structure, with screws or nails added in later for the camera. In this case, we don't find evidence of that. Also, the site is sterile of other film gear - or any other gear, for that matter. The interior is woefully inadequate for much use, and even a temporary shoot structure would have a decent floor. Techs don't want to twist ankles on set, you know?

No, I believe that this is a legitimate FAIL.

 

[Silurian]

I have seen sheds like this in peoples gardens where we have taken part to build a road.

 

[AvalancheMaster]

Can you recommend a good wood for steps of staircase? Basically it is a steel-frame semi-spiral staircase where the steps are connected to the frame via bolts on both sides of the plank.

 

[Cutlass]

Probably oak, for strength and durability. Any pine or softwood will eventually show wear and cracking.

 

[ReindeerThistle]

Can you recommend a good wood for steps of staircase? Basically it is a steel-frame semi-spiral staircase where the steps are connected to the frame via bolts on both sides of the plank.

Probably oak, for strength and durability. Any pine or softwood will eventually show wear and cracking.

I concur about softwood in general -- not for walking.

Oak has it's own issues, given that most oak on the market in the Us, at least is from new growth groves and those are chemically-dependent trees that rarely come in over-11-1/2" widths.

"5/4" solid stair tread wood in oak is fine... will last a long time. However, since most commercial stair tread lumber is not full-width planks but "wood solids" with a veneer, look very carefully.

If you can afford it, ipe wood is a durable and attractive hardwood that doesn't require a finish (though a finish is.recommended if exposed to the sun.

Mahogany is also a durable hardwood and does not have the cracking and checking issues associated with new-growth oak -- santos mahogany is particularly durable, is very dark red and pretty, and finishes well with a moisture-cure polyurethane or a high solids marine finish that may need re-applying every 7-10 years depending on wear.

Hope we have helped.

 

[AvalancheMaster]

That you did. Thank you for the replies!

 

[peter grimes]

OK, I've got a problem. Or perhaps more accurately, my landlord has a problem that I'd like to help her to solve. Please view the linked googledrive folder for images that accompany this description:

https://docs.google.com/
EDIT: I apparently get an email every time a new person tries to view this. I dont approve of this harvesting of private email addresses so I'll find another way to share the images.

http://imgur.com/a/6s5z4

We have steam radiators, single pipe. The 'area' image show the old repair done to the floor owing to water damage from the leaking valve. It's now leaking so badly that not only am I emptying about 5 liters 2x a day, but it still leaks with the valve closed all the way.

The 'damage' images shows how a floor piece was forced off the substrate by the parquet pieces next to it - they are cupped now, too. I have to replace the piece. Also, notice the light showing beneath the piece on its side - that's how cupped some pieces are.

The water leaks out from around the shaft of the valve. That's the dark steel in the 'knobshaft' image. I'm guessing this is because the valve seat is shot, but I'm hoping for some advice here.

Is a plumber required in NYC to do this repair? If not, I might try it myself (if the landlord agrees, of course). It looks to be just a matter of a couple of unions and replace the valve assembly?

Last photo is the floor of a closet in the main room. It's painted cork! I've never heard of this in older houses. Our building was erected in the 1920s.

EDIT: added link to imgur album

 

[ReindeerThistle]

OK, I've got a problem. Or perhaps more accurately, my landlord has a problem that I'd like to help her to solve. Please view the linked googledrive folder for images that accompany this description:

https://docs.google.com/
EDIT: I apparently get an email every time a new person tries to view this. I dont approve of this harvesting of private email addresses so I'll find another way to share the images.

We have steam radiators, single pipe. The 'area' image show the old repair done to the floor owing to water damage from the leaking valve. It's now leaking so badly that not only am I emptying about 5 liters 2x a day, but it still leaks with the valve closed all the way.

The 'damage' images shows how a floor piece was forced off the substrate by the parquet pieces next to it - they are cupped now, too. I have to replace the piece. Also, notice the light showing beneath the piece on its side - that's how cupped some pieces are.

The water leaks out from around the shaft of the valve. That's the dark steel in the 'knobshaft' image. I'm guessing this is because the valve seat is shot, but I'm hoping for some advice here.

Is a plumber required in NYC to do this repair? If not, I might try it myself (if the landlord agrees, of course). It looks to be just a matter of a couple of unions and replace the valve assembly?

Last photo is the floor of a closet in the main room. It's painted cork! I've never heard of this in older houses. Our building was erected in the 1920s.

You struck it rich, peter... I have 17 years of steam boiler maintenance experience!

But I am having problems dling the images.

However, in single pipe steam systems, shut-off valves have to be on or off all the way. A shot valve seat means replace the shut-off valve ... and that is serious.


While you don't NEED a plumber to do this, I recommend the Landlord hire one once, and you stay to get OJT. They will likely have to sawzall off (and out) the old tailepiece section in the radiator and use a union puller tool to install a new tailpiece. They will have to likely sawzall off the valve at the standpipe.

99% of my radiator shut-off valve replacements are like this.

5 liters twice a day means the boiler will be adding new water DAILY at a rate 10 times the WEEKLY norm for water usage. She needs to get it fixed because it's costing MORE money in fuel, water and, eventually she will need a new boiler because the old one will crack.

Been there... done that.

Anyway... this is my sight-unseen response.

 

[peter grimes]

@rt: check my post again. I added a link to an imgur album. Or at least I tried to ;l

Sawzall through the pipe? I can do that, as long as it doesn't have to be square. I'd rather use a cutoff wheel. Or... Have you seen Milwaukee's micro portabands?! Cordless and totally adequate for small curs like this, except they can't get into tight quarters, naturally.

Is that because the fittings have rusted together over the decades?

 

[ReindeerThistle]

@peter... saw the pics... BAD radiator arrangement... VERY BAD. Steam system standpipes should be vertical for drainage of the "dead steam" to flow back to the return.

That being said... you, landlord, whoever, WILL have to replace the shut-off valve. This means what I.mentioned above: cut off the tailpiece and valve, clean out the threads, install new shut-off valve... and expect this to happen again.

This is exploded view of valve (left) and tailpiece (right).

Here is a union tool,



it goes INSIDE the tailpiece to turn it via lugs inside the tailpiece:

 

[peter grimes]

Wow, thanks for the insight. This is really helpful to hear, since I'll just go straight to suggesting a professional repair, rather than offering to help her brother tweak it.

Not sure if it matters, but the furnace is gas. Was replaced when we moved in and didn't have heat for 2 months

 

[ReindeerThistle]

Wow, thanks for the insight. This is really helpful to hear, since I'll just go straight to suggesting a professional repair, rather than offering to help her brother tweak it.

Not sure if it matters, but the furnace is gas. Was replaced when we moved in and didn't have heat for 2 months

Boiling water is boiling water. Gas or oil.

But I'm glad it's newer. Last year we went through hell with a brand new has.boiler because the installers hadn't boiled out the residue and it was spitting water through half of the radiators.

Let me know what happens!

 

[Cutlass]

I would certainly get a plumber for that kind of repair. That is a high pressure connection. It takes extremely little flaw for water to get out, and even less for steam to get out.

 

[peter grimes]

I would certainly get a plumber for that kind of repair. That is a high pressure connection. It takes extremely little flaw for water to get out, and even less for steam to get out.

No I'm pretty sure a single pipe steam feed is not high pressure. I changed the exhaust valve after reading about it on the Internet. You're not doubting The Internet, are you??

 

[Cutlass]

Maybe not exceptionally high pressure. But enough to make leaks easy.

 

[ReindeerThistle]

Residential steam heat is usually 5psi... enough to hurt if you are in the way.

 

[peter grimes]

5psi is less than atmospheric pressure, which is 14ish. That would mean it's a strong vacuum

Perhaps it's +5psi? That would mean the system is only slightly positive pressure.

I don't know what the definition of high pressure is, but I'd assume it's at least 30 psi (2 atmospheres)

 

[ReindeerThistle]

The dial on our boilers reads "5" ... i.e., it's forcing 5psi through the steam pipes. Our pressurtrol safety switches cut off at 9psi.

Standard street residential natural gas pressure is about 8psi.

All three of our boilers put out about 2,000 square feet of radiation/ minute, or 8,000 btus/ minute. Heats 8 apartments from 55°F to 68°F in about 20 minutes.

 

[peter grimes]

What do you suppose a valve replacement would cost? couple hundred?

 

[ReindeerThistle]

What do you suppose a valve replacement would cost? couple hundred?

Maybe... depends. When we hired a plumber to do this in 1997, first and last time, I think it was $150 plus parts.

Call J. Chimerine Supply in Bed-Stuy. Ask for "Spence." Ask him if he can refer any plumbers wherever you are...(Queens is a big place) they me may be helpful.

If you want, tell them you heard about them from "CCMP." They donate to CCMP (one of the organizations I work with.)