[RD] Backpacking Việt Nam (2019)

In China I often saw two adults and 2-3 children on a single scooter. I'm sure it is the same all over Asia.
 
The internet seems to think 7 is reasonable
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Cà Phê Trứng
Egg Coffee

Legend has it that this way of drinking coffee was invented during World War II, when fresh milk was in short supply. These days it is made by beating egg yolks with milk and sugar and then boiling the mixture and adding hot or iced coffee.

I was able to locate the establishment where this drink was invented - The Giang Café, and enjoyed an egg coffee there. Overall I quite liked it! My mom basically used to make me this almost exact thing as a snack when I was a kid - just without the coffee.

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I believe you are supposed to eat the foam at top first and then drink the coffee at the bottom, but from what I remember I mixed it all up. A dessert-like caffeine boost to help me get through the rest of the day.
 
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That might be worth a try!
 
Quan Chưởng City Gate

This gate was built in 1749 and is one of the few left that used to surround the perimeter of the old city. It played a role in the defense against French forces in 1843 and 1946.

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Bún Chả

This dish is a popular choice for lunch in Hanoi and I just couldn't resist tracking down the restaurant where Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain ate Bún Chả back in 2016.

Spoiler :
It was a packed house and patrons were seated beside each other whether they wanted to be or not.

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Bún Chả is basically grilled fatty pork served with rice noodles, herbs, and a dipping sauce, and usually also other assorted elements like twice fried eggrolls with pork inside (on the middle plate) or pork meatballs. There is also spicy minced chilli & garlic that you can add to your bowl as well as I believe some vinegar off to the side.

Lunch was great and very cheap. If I could eat this dish for lunch every day, it would be hard to say no.
 
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Hỏa Lò Prison

This prison is known in the U.S. as the Hanoi Hilton, an initially sarcastic name American POWs used to describe the prison complex during the American (Vietnam) War. During that conflict this prison was used by the North Vietnamese army to house, torture, and interrogate captured servicemen. Initially the prison was built by the French in the late 1880s and used to house, torture, and execute political prisoners, usually those plotting for Vietnamese independence.

Spoiler :
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Most of the prison was torn down in the 1990s, but the gatehouse has been preserved and converted into a museum, most of which is used to highlight the torture, execution methods, and inhumane conditions perpetrated by the French colonial regime. Some time is spent explaining how independence and revolutionary leaders were able to pass notes around and even hold classes in an effort to teach others in the prison about how to best coordinate a revolution, as well as teaching basic revolutionary and/or communist ideology and ideas.

Conditions for American POWs improved in 1969 or so with the creation of a communal living & recreation area, as well as an improvement in other conditions. A part of the museum focuses on the better treatment of prisoners at this time and shows photos of American prisoners playing football, just lounging around, and generally looking somewhat upbeat.

I found most of the museum fairly dark and somber in nature and did not take many pictures. All I could do was move from plaque to plaque and slowly take in what I was seeing and reading. If you want to see a picture of the guillotine or some of the other torture or execution methods, you will be able to do so by googling it.

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It was a packed house and patrons were seated beside each other whether they wanted to be or not.Lunch was great and very cheap.
If I could eat this dish for lunch every day, it would be hard to say no.

Thats pretty normal, to be seated and share a table especially during the rush hours. Back in the real old days my parents would say that people would queue right next to your table and watch you eat to encourage you to not to loiter
Food is very affordable, one of the reasons why American fast food tried and failed to really establish/penetrate into Vietnam. I think McD meal is more then double the price of a regular meal
Everything is really fresh as well, soup stocks are made daily, all the rice noodles are freshly made
 
Văn Miếu
The Temple of Literature

The Temple of Literature was built in 1070 and is dedicated to Confucius. It houses the Imperial Academy, which is Vietnam's first national university. The temple grounds are considered to be as much a place of study as a religious landmark.

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The layout of this temple complex is similar to that of the Temple of Confucius in Qufu, China, which is where Confucius was born. There are a number of courtyards, each connected to the next by a gate.

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Exploring the temple grounds I wandered into a performance of traditional Vietnamese music. In this case the instrument being played is a Đàn Bầu.

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Thiên Quang Tinh
The Well of Heavenly Brilliance

The third courtyard is mainly taken up by The Well of Heavenly Brilliance. The courtyard is supposed to symbolize the harmony between the sky and the earth, the well acting as a mirror that absorbs the best essence of the universe.

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There is a set of very interesting stone stelae in the third courtyard which detail the names and birth places of students who graduated here between 1442 and 1779. 82 such stelae remain, out of the 116 that were initially constructed.

It is said that students used to rub the heads of the turtles for good luck right before exams.. These days it is forbidden to touch any part of the turtles or stelae.

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Quốc Tử Giám Park

This park sits right beside the Temple of Literature grounds and seems to be popular with those wishing to exercise or meditate, as well as just being a place for families and others to get away from the busy city life.

Spoiler :
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The Temple of Literature grounds are on the right and the Quốc Tử Giám Park is just to the left. You can barely see it, but they are separated by a fence.
The main feature in the park is Lầu Bát Giác, which literally translates to "Octagon Floor"

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Saint Paul Hospital

This hospital used to be the largest Hôtel-Dieu in Indochina, which refers to hospitals for the poor and needy ran by the Catholic church. These days it is one of the main hospitals in Hanoi for traffic accident injuries and victims of external trauma.

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I did not get a great shot of the hospital, as at the time I did not know what it was. The focus here is clearly the sign.. I have made an attempt to translate it using online services and a manual cleanup:

Innovation creates benefits for employees and workers and leads to a sustainable development of the country, the capital, and Ba Đình district.

Ba Đình District is the political centre of Vietnam and was formerly referred to as the French Quarter.. It sits just west of the old quarter and is home to about 220,000 people.
 
Thăng Long Imperial Citadel

This complex of imperial buildings was constructed in 1011 CE under the reign of Emperor Lý Thái Tổ. Over the years a lot of it has been destroyed, although recently a part of the old citadel was discovered on the site of the new parliament building, which lead to the largest archaeological excavation in the history of Vietnam.

One of the structures that remains is the Đoan Môn gate, which marks the southern entrance to the royal palace.

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Some of the other structures that remain is the former royal residence and a general command headquarters bunker from more recent times. Some of these were already closed for the day though and the rest were soon closing. I explored a bit around the Đoan Môn gate and moved on.

Walking down a nearby street you can also spot the Flag Tower of Hanoi (Cột cờ Hà Nội), one of the symbols of the city.

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This tower was built in 1812 and used to be a part of the citadel complex. It was one of the few structuers in Hanoi not destroyed during the French invasion of 1896-97. These days it is a part of the Vietnam Military History Museum.
 
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Hàng Đậu Water Tower

Walking back to the old quarter I walked past this water tower, which was built by the French colonial government in 1895 in order to provide water to the French garrison, and was in operation until the late 1950s. This was done after 12,000 French soldiers perished in an epidemic. The construction of the water tower signalled the beginning of a modern water supply in Hanoi.

This water tower stands right at the boundary of Ba Đình and Hoàn Kiếm districts. Ba Đình is the district that contains the political centre of Vietnam, including the parliament building, the ministry of defense, the mausoleum, and many other government structures. Hoàn Kiếm district contains the old quarter and other parts of central Hanoi.

The Hàng Đậu water tower is a recognizable landmark of Hanoi and is being converted into a museum.

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Thê Húc Bridge

You might remember my visit to this bridge on my first full day in the country. I was eager to get back here in the evening in order to see the bridge light up. It is one of the most photographed landmarks in the city.

Unfortunately I never travel with a proper tripod, so I had to compromise and try to do my best while it was still a bit light out.

This bridge is known as The place where the light of the morning sun rests. It is viewed as a symbolic transition between the material world and the spiritual world (in the temple on the island)

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