Computer Questions Not Worth Their Own Thread II

[Zelig]

As for 3 GBs worth of files taking up close to 4 GBs worth of space, that is possible, particularly if there are lots of small files. By default, at least on recent versions of Windows (XP and later), the minimum file size is 4 KB, or 4096 bytes (I think it may have been 512 bytes on earlier versions). So if you have a 1 byte file, it actually takes up over 4000 times that much space on disk. Similarly, all files must be multiples of 4096 bytes on disk, so a 4097 byte file takes up 8192 bytes. With large files this difference isn't noticeable, but if you have lots of small files it does add up.

Well it adds up by an average of 2 kb per file assuming random size distribution, e.g. <2 gb per million files.

 

[r16]

thanks for the answers . &#305; have begun to take files into an external drive . Previously it was only movies and books , now &#305; also remove saved html files as well .

 

[PeteT]

I recently got a new computer with Windows 10 and started having problems editing Civ 4 XML files.

Whenever I tried to run the program with a modified file, it wouldn't load and the error message showed some unreadable characters at the beginning of the file. These characters wouldn't show up on any XML editor that I used to open the file.

Finally I opened the file with a Hex editor and there they were. So I removed them and then the file loads.

Has anybody else had this problem and found a better way of coping? It would be a major hassle to do this every time I wanted to edit an XML file.

 

[IglooDame]

Recently, one of the websites I visit has started giving me a popup saying it's detected I'm using an ad-blocker, and requests that I stop using it. How do they detect the presence of an ad-blocker in the first place, and can I "block" the detection?

Perhaps they use Java or other ad-displaying mechanism to display what is effectively whitespace, and underneath that "ad" is the detection/request you're seeing?

Sites running ads (like, um, this one) get paid per ad seen. Visitors running ad-blocker denies the site the ad revenue from those visits, so it's understandable that they might actively try to get it back by requesting folks running ad-blocker to disable it for their site.

 

[shadowplay]

I have had viruses and dialers placed on my machine in the past by rogue advertisers, to say nothing of the other deceitful practices used by online advertisers on a regular basis. Can't say I'm going to be re-enabling ads anytime soon.

 

[PlutonianEmpire]

I have Intel HD 4400 for Graphics, on an i5-4210U cpu, on Windows 7 home premium 64 bit, SP 1. What are the most recent graphics drivers for this? I can't seem to find anything.

 

[caketastydelish]

@caketasty

You don't need a lot of the stuff you're linking. If I understand it correctly you want to play current gen console type games (i.e., AAA titles like Assassin's Creed, Metal Gear Solid, GTA V, etc. etc.) at 1080p yes? Doing this for $1000 is very doable. You can do it for less.

PC Hound Part List - Hound-O-Matic (Alpha) Results

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M Pro4 ($74.5 @ Amazon)
Memory: PANRAM 16GB (2 x 8GB) Ninja Series ($38.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 970 GV-N970WF3OC-4GD ($303.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W S12II 520 Bronze ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial 1TB BX100 CT1000BX100SSD1 ($309.99 @ TigerDirect)
Case: Fractal Design FD-CA-DEF-S-BK ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1,037.44
Price may include shipping, rebates, promotions, and tax
Generated by PC Hound

You mentioned wanting good sound... what's your setup? If you want high quality surround 7.1 for example for movies, then get a sound card and don't bother paying through the nose for a more expensive motherboard touting high performance audio. But for gaming you're wasting your money as most games, as far as I know, don't use high quality source audio anyway.


Some notes on your choices:

Both of the motherboards you linked, i.e. the one in the quoted post above and that MSI motherboard in your most recent post, are incompatible with your CPU. Tye MSI one is actually for AMD chips. Don't bother with a Z model, as this is unnecessary since you selected a non "K" CPU. Non K Intel CPU's cannot be overclocked. Get a H model instead if you are not going to overclock.

Your RAM is overpriced. 2400 MHz does little to nothing in gaming on Intel CPU's. Also big heatspreaders are mostly useless marketing gimmicks. As a general rule of thumb in buying PC hardware, anything with overly "gamer" marketing pizzaz ("Vengeance," "Republic of Gamers," blah blah blah) is probably overpriced and to be avoided. Just buy cheap DDR3 1600 RAM.

970 is the most you will ever need for 1080p gaming for years to come. Great card. Very power efficient. You will max out everything (or almost max it out) for the next few years at 1080p.

Blu-ray... people still use these things?

PSU... if you're going to blow a bunch of money on a build, buy a good PSU. This no name PSU is not a good idea. Get something from a quality manufacturer like Seasonic or FSP. 550w is more than enough.

Case...to each their own. I prefer the more minimalist look.

I have exactly $1140 saved up and tomorrow (the 6th of January) I will be going to a computer store to look at parts, and quite possibly buy it.

1140 should be enough, even including tax. If not, it will have to wait some more...

And the point of this reply by me to illram is if he (or anyone else) has some last-second ideas/suggestions now would be the time. I've never made my own computer before from the ground up.

edit: as for the soundcard I'm thinking I will just buy pimped out audiotechnia headphones and just use that whenever I play games. The company audiotechnia because they are all product and no marketing, the exact opposite of beats by dr. dre.

 

[Zelig]

I have Intel HD 4400 for Graphics, on an i5-4210U cpu, on Windows 7 home premium 64 bit, SP 1. What are the most recent graphics drivers for this? I can't seem to find anything.

https://downloadcenter.intel.com/do...phics-Driver-for-Windows-7-8-1-15-36-28-4332-

Or Win10 will automatically keep your drivers up to date.

 

[cardgame]

Last minute suggestions? http://www.pcpartpicker.com make sure you're getting the deals you want. You could save quite a bit and it also checks for compatibility to make sure your graphics card fits in the case, etc.

Don't buy anything from Tiger Direct, they no longer offer any sort of return policy.

Look through /r/buildapc they have a lot of 'first time mistakes' threads so you can learn from others.

If you could give your past self ONE piece of advice before your first PC build what would you say?
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/c...your_past_self_one_piece_of/?ref=search_posts
1600 comments

 

[caketastydelish]

I did that reddit thing and they recommended different parts from illram.

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/3zo4tb/build_help_my_first_computer_im_ever_building/

CPU Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor $219.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $24.98 @ OutletPC
Motherboard MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard $97.88 @ OutletPC
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory $69.88 @ OutletPC
Storage Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $84.88 @ OutletPC
Storage Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $49.98 @ OutletPC
Video Card Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card $299.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $95.98 @ Newegg
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total (before mail-in rebates) $1043.55
Mail-in rebates -$40.00
Total $1003.55

 

[PlutonianEmpire]

https://downloadcenter.intel.com/do...phics-Driver-for-Windows-7-8-1-15-36-28-4332-

Or Win10 will automatically keep your drivers up to date.

Thank you.

 

[cardgame]

That looks pretty sick. I'd pull the trigger on it

If you do want to hold a bit of money back, however, you can drop the 4690K and get a 4590 or 4460 (locked, non-K processor) and you can use the stock cooler, saving $20+ on the CPU, $25 on the cooler and another $20 probably on the motherboard (ATX H97 Pro 4 instead) Of course, z97 boards have extra features anyway, and an aftermarket cooler is better and sometimes quieter, so it's up to you. I'd take those savings though, if you're not interested in overclocking (which isn't that important anyway these days, pretty marginal benefit for most people). If you keep the cooler you'll end up around $1000 even.

Another suggestion, what I did was go for a pure SSD build, a 500GB 850 EVO and added an HDD later on. You said you'd have more money in a month or so, you can add the HDD whenever you need more space - should last you 2-3 months or longer unless you download a ton of movies or bigass 20-50gb games.

 

[caketastydelish]

I bought the parts from Micro Center. I get a 30 day return policy. Not to mention a price match guarantee. Meaning if there's somewhere on the internet where you can get the pieces for less, they have to pay me the difference (which continues to exist throughout the 30 days I have to return it as well). Although if there is a shipping cost from somewhere else cheaper they factor that in to the total.

edit: to make that clear, let's say I paid 200 for a component and I find it on amazon or whatever for 150. If there's a shipping cost of 30 then they would only price match me to 180, not 150.

I find that part of the policy stupid because there obviously isn't going to be a shipping cost if you buy it directly from a physical store. That's not even meant to be compared, apples and oranges...

I will not open any of the components up until until I know I can't get a better deal elsewhere. The earliest date that I *might* open and start building it is Jan 19th because I'm going to build it with my friend who is more experienced and he won't be available until around then.

Here are my specs:

Case: NZXT IS340 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146190 Comment: the case can't use a cd drive. That is irrelevant to me because: 1) I don't use CD/DVD drive to play my games anyway, I download them (legally of course, don't worry ). 2) I already have an external CD/DVD player for that purpose anyway, that's what I use for my laptop which doesn't have a CD/DVD tray either. price: $70

Video Card: TURBO-GTX 970-OC-4GD5 https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/TURBOGTX970OC4GD5/ Price: $300

Motherboard: Z97-A USB 3.1 https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Z97AUSB_31/ price: $130

storage: Samsung SSD 850 EVO http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452220089&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+ssd+850+evo Price: $90

storage: WD desktop Internal Hard Drive 1 TB http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Internal-Desktop-WD1002FAEX/dp/B0036Q7MV0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452220338&sr=1-1&keywords=Western+Digital+1+TB+7200+RPM+64+MB Price: $40

Fan: HYPER 212 EVO http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master...kcompar-20&ascsubtag=568f213d48308f04ec525fad price: $30

processor: Intel i5-4690K 3.5 GHZ, 6MB cache, LGA 1150 http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i5...1&keywords=i5-4690k+3.5+GHZ+6MB+cache+LGA1150 Price: $220


power supply: NEX 750 B price: $65

RAM: 2x8 GB (16 GB kit) DDR3 (PC-12800) CL9 @ 1.5V Price: $63

the store charged me tax (some online stores do not) but on the other hand obviously I didn't have to worry about any shipping costs. I don't think their "match the price thing" includes the tax (as in, to make up for online stores where you don't pay tax) but I could check on that...

As a side note, I'm on the hunt for a good deal on a monitor. If you find one online (that is good for gaming and is a good deal) let me know please.

illram linked one before although it's no longer a good deal as it's no longer on sale and is now back to its original, more expensive price.

The max I want to pay for the monitor (including taxes, shipping, etc everything) is $160. Although I wouldn't mind paying less.

I'll also be using Windows 10 to run this thing. As far as I know you have to pay 100 bucks for a fresh copy of Windows 10, but my friend said you could get it for free. Although he hasn't been able to prove that to me.

 

[Quintillus]

How'd you get that HDD for $40? I see it for $99 on your Amazon link, and $80 in my Micro Center flyer. Short-lived sale? I was going to suggest the 2 TB, 7200 RPM Toshiba drive at Micro Center as an alternative that's cheap, fast, quiet, and a better $/GB ratio, but 1 TB for $40 is cheap if you only need that much space.

Unless you can still sign up for the Windows Insider program, where you're essentially beta testing the next release of Windows 10 and get to enjoy all the potential bugs that come with that, I'm pretty sure your friend is incorrect about being able to get Win 10 legitimately for free. Exceptions are that you may be able to get it inexpensively through your school or employer, but that varies a lot and is usually only larger schools/employers (Microsoft is also less generous with that + Windows than they were 8-9 years ago; it's more common to find cheap Office that way). IIRC even the Microsoft employee price is $40. So you'll probably have to shell out for Windows, if you don't have an old transferable copy laying around and don't want to run Linux.

Looks like a pretty solid build altogether. Does Micro Center have the 6600K for $220 still or has that gone up? I know its price is pretty ridiculous online - $270 on Newegg - and while my Micro Center flyer says $220, it's a couple weeks old, and it may have gone up (Micro Center's site is currently down). If it's the same price it may be worth it, but that would also require DDR4 and a different mobo which may drive the price up... it's definitely situational, and a minor upgrade over the 4690K at best. Since you've already got the parts for the 4690K, I'd probably be inclined to stick with it, even if the price does wind up being all but the same.

Can't make monitor recommendations as I'm in the spend-more-on-monitors-less-on-GPUs line of thought. I did pretty much the opposite of what you did there and spend $300 on a monitor, and about $160 on the GPU. Definitely depends on your priorities but I figured I'd be looking at the monitor every day, might as well get a nice one.

 

[caketastydelish]

The dude at the store told me this machine would be capable of 4K gaming. In which case I might as well get a monitor in the 120-160 dollar price range, and then shell out big time bucks after saving up a long time just for that. And even if it can't run 4k, I can still get a nicer/bigger monitor any time I want anyway. This computer will last me for at least several years unless something happens to it... that means I have plenty of time to upgrade the monitor. But you should be able to get a monitor that is at least decent within my price range.

edit: I got lots of discounts. They rang up lots of discounts which were all for different reasons. Some of it temporary promotional, some stuff was just on sale, and some of it was bundle when you buy together, etc. I got the nicest computer I possibly could have within my price range and pretty much couldn't have spent a penny more. The only thing to do now is return it if I could build better within the same price range I already did, or if you find somewhere on the internet where the same specs I already bought cost less. In which case they have to pay me the difference because of their price match guarantee.

 

[cardgame]

The 970 can pull off 4K but you'll have to downgrade settings significantly in most games. Very few cards can run proper 4K gaming, 980Ti and AMD Fury being the only two that can pull it off at high settings. Well, game dependent of course.

4K monitors start at $500 (Monoprice is coming out with one for that). Quite pricy.

 

[caketastydelish]

That's fine and makes me feel better- anything much more expensive was easily out of price range. I didn't even intend to spend as much as I did.

"You could have pulled it off if you bought this instead of that within the same price range" is what would make me worried.

edit: assuming you mean the more powerful graphics cards are more expensive. Which has a 99% chance of being the case.

 

[cardgame]

Well, a 390 could pull off 4K better with its extra VRAM, but it still isn't particularly good for 4k

 

[caketastydelish]

I would rather get a monitor with standard 1920 x 1080P resolution which I can max out all the way than play mediocre 4k. Especially when I apparently have to pay at least 500 just for that opportunity to begin with.

edit: perhaps five years down the road the price of 4k monitors (as well as technology in general) will be down a lot compared to now. In which case I would go for a 4k gaming rig for my next build. But as long as this machine I have now is much more powerful than the Sony PS4 (that's what I was promised) and it would otherwise be pretty much impossible to get a better built without spending more, then I'm perfectly happy with what I've got.

 

[Zelig]

4K actually works fine with surprisingly inexpensive cards if you're a decade behind in gaming and plan on working through your hundreds of unplayed Steam titles chronologically.