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The Very-Many-Questions-Not-Worth-Their-Own-Thread Thread XLIII

It has been standard in cheap rental accommodation in the UK for more than 20 years to have on demand hot water supplied by a gas boiler. They are a bit rubbish, in that the faster you turn the water on the cooler it is, and if you like deep hot baths you are out of luck, but it works and it is what a lot of people have.

Now the electric ones are ~£100. I have not used one, but I bet they are similar. If you have a heat pump that produces 3.5 kW one would expect it to be able to produce water at ~48 C at the same rate.

There is nothing special about radiators, aka water-air heat exchanges, that you cannot do with refrigerant-air heat exchangers. They are both metal fluid filled containers exposed to the air. I think you should have more flexibility with refrigerant, as it is undergoing a phase change so it transfers more free energy per volume, or something. You could make refrigerant-air heat exchangers look exactly like radiators if you wanted, and they would be at least as efficient.

If the problem is that the system is turning on and off too frequently that is purely a question of the control system. If you increase the hysteresis it will turn on and off less frequently. Of course the room will vary more in temperature, but if that is a problem at the same time as the machine is turning on and off too frequently you have a far too powerful system.

When I say forced air I mean having a fan attached to the heat exchanger rather than relying purely on passive convection. I do not mean where hot/cold air is piped around the house, I have never seen that here. The options are pump water or refrigerant around the house.

It was the person in the video complaining about noise. I think that is because the system he used had a fan at the heat exchanger in the room.


I'm wondering if the issue isn't installation and service costs? Mini splits, or central AC, pipe the refrigerant to a single location. That minimizes points of failure, and installation cost. Water systems are no more robust than potable water systems in the house. Which makes installation relatively inexpensive, as any plumber can do it. And it only has to contain water at lowish pressures.
 
I'm wondering if the issue isn't installation and service costs? Mini splits, or central AC, pipe the refrigerant to a single location. That minimizes points of failure, and installation cost. Water systems are no more robust than potable water systems in the house. Which makes installation relatively inexpensive, as any plumber can do it. And it only has to contain water at lowish pressures.
The video I linked above says air-to-air systems are half the price of air-to-water. Refrigerant lines are very easy to run, they are thin and more like wires than water pipes. You really do not want leaks though.
 
I can shower as long as I want with my 40gallon tank. It never cools.
Yes, and my 2009 Toyoda gets me to the grocery store and back just fine.
My typewriters never needs charging.
My wife can still bake bread in the wood stove on the back porch. :p

Keeping water hot even while no one needs it is more wasteful than only heating it when used.
 
Why are cameras disallowed from courtroom proceedings but sketch artists are not?
It probably depends on your attitude to causality, but I would be willing to put money on the primary reason being that we could draw before we had courts, but cameras came after.
 
Cameras aren't always disallowed. It's on a jurisdiction-by-jurisdiction basis.

It helps preserve the anonymity of jurors, where that's thought to be important (like in cases where a mob-boss figure is being tried).
 
Why are cameras disallowed from courtroom proceedings but sketch artists are not?
Each state makes the rules for state court cases and the federal courts have their own rules for federal cases. State case in GA are televised, so if that case ever gets going, it will be on TV.
 
Yes, but for those proceedings where cameras aren't allowed, why are they OK with sketches? What difference does it make?
 
Yes, but for those proceedings where cameras aren't allowed, why are they OK with sketches? What difference does it make?
Tradition that might well predate photography.
 
What's a good G9 LED lighbulb type to buy for a chandelier that will hold 8 such lightbulbs for a library/reading room? I am new to the "warm white" vs "daylight white" vs "bright white" etc lingo. What kind of white do I want? Or maybe I want a "warm glow" ?
Spoiler :

The chandelier I want takes G9 type of lightbulbs. This is what they look like
Spoiler :

This is what the chandelier looks like
Spoiler :

Given all this information.. what kind of lightbulb intensity would you get? Would a 6000K daylight white be too much? Would that basically be a bright white colour? It seems so, but would that be too bright? I want to avoid yellows and want something purely white. That seems better for reading. But please enlighten me
 
I had daylight white bulbs and it was unbearable. Think of the brightest hospital light you can, then dial it up a bit brighter, and that will be your entire house. I couldn't imagine shoving eight of those into a single chandelier. You would flashbang any visitor.

You'll want soft white, I think.
 
If you want warm, stay in the 3k or less range. Get above 4500, it's pretty stark white. Which is good for some things, but not necessarily relaxing reading.
 
Are the lights you're using now comfortable? The idea is to be able to see everything you want to, without getting a headache.
 
I had daylight white bulbs and it was unbearable. Think of the brightest hospital light you can, then dial it up a bit brighter, and that will be your entire house. I couldn't imagine shoving eight of those into a single chandelier. You would flashbang any visitor.

You'll want soft white, I think.

Hmm you might be on to something. Even though my first reaction was: "but all these lightbulbs are going to be inside a bowl type thing, as per the photo I posted". I have since found an article that had this to say on the subject:

Spoiler :
When you are reading for pleasure, you should focus on lighting that is warm in nature. Warm lights are typically considered any with a color temperature below 3300 degrees Kelvin. This translates to colors ranging from red and orange to even yellow or a warm white. Many people report that yellow is the best color light for reading. If you have LED lights that can be changed to any color, you will likely find that red and orange are among the best LED light colors for reading.

However, if you are studying, you'd better opt for cooler lighting instead. Specifically, you need lights with a color temperature between 3600 and 6500 degrees Kelvin. At this point, light is going to be white, bluish, or cyan. If you only have traditional light bulbs, white lights will be the best light color for reading. If you do have LED bulbs, simply opt for a color with more hues of blue.

If you are used to reading at night, the answer is much more straightforward. During the evening and night, you need to have two specific goals in mind when it comes to reading. First, you want enough light so that you can prevent problems like eye strain and headaches. Secondly, you want to be sure that the lighting does not interfere with your sleep patterns.

Thus, the best light color for reading at night is warm lighting like reds, oranges, and yellows. You may have already figured out the reason for this. Like we noted, cooler light colors like blues and whites send a signal to your body to be awake. Reading with these colors at night can confuse your body’s natural rhythm, leading to sleep problems. You may have read about the importance of avoiding blue light during the evenings, which is due to the same reason.

In conclusion, warm lighting is the best light color for reading and studying at night. If you have traditional lights, you can use a warm yellow bulb. If you have LED lights that change colors, you may find that the best LED light color for reading at night is a deep orange or red.
My objective is to mainly read in the evening, right before bed. I have been meaning to find more time to read, and I never end up doing this.. but with a library/reading room, you'd think that I should be able to dedicate some time before sleep to reading, instead of spending that time in front of a computer monitor. This is why I painted that room a mellow blue, to not infuse too much energy into that room. So it seems that "reds, oranges, and yellows" will be good for my chandelier, given the text in the spoiler tags, which I copied and pasted from an article.

If you want warm, stay in the 3k or less range. Get above 4500, it's pretty stark white. Which is good for some things, but not necessarily relaxing reading.

3000K warm white.. That should work then, right? Even though there's 8 of them (but they are all in the globe chandelier things which you'd think would dim them a bit). Or should I shoot for a lower K number since there's going to be 8 lightbulbs?

I want to buy a standing lamp on top of this, to shine on my book, to complement these lights.. but.. if the light from the chandelier is good enough, I won't need that. It just seems a nice standing light is something you'd want in a reading room.

Are the lights you're using now comfortable? The idea is to be able to see everything you want to, without getting a headache.

Currently I have a really ugly chandelier setup that I want to throw out and replace with something cooler looking. This room was also using smartlights that you could adjust, but I have since put those lightbulbs elsewhere.
 
An "unsolicited" shark bite? You mean some people actually want sharks to bite them? :dubious:

I want to buy a standing lamp on top of this, to shine on my book, to complement these lights.. but.. if the light from the chandelier is good enough, I won't need that. It just seems a nice standing light is something you'd want in a reading room.

In my experience, you'd need the chandelier to see everything you want to in the room (ie. when you organize your books and other stuff in the room, you want to be able to see what's where).

But if you're just sitting in a comfy chair, reading a book, it's more relaxing to have a lamp that's within reach. It would be helpful to have one that you can adjust between dim, medium, and bright, depending on what you're comfortable with. 'Cause if you're sitting in a comfortable chair, reading a book, and you accidentally fall asleep, the last thing you need irritating your eyes is a huge, bright batch of daylight shining from the ceiling.
 
In any case, put the light on a dimmer switch.
 
Dimmer switches let you control the lighting and are worth the effort and cost: bright when you need it and not so bright when desired.
 
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