The righteous man is beset on all sides by the inequities of martinis

BvBPL

Pour Decision Maker
Joined
Apr 13, 2010
Messages
7,186
Location
At the bar
Two Questions:

Are you perturbed by the excess of specialty “martinis” out there?

How much can you tell about a restaurant based on its bar and bartenders?

--

Everyone, at least everyone worth conversing with, has a story about how hard it can be to find a decent drink. My story starts with my folks taking my girlfriend and I out to dinner one night. We hopped into my folks’ car, left the Commonwealth and crossed into Perdition, err, I mean Connecticut. In hindsight, I should have recognized this ill omen from the start. We rolled up on this fusion restaurant to eat at. For those of you who don’t know, fusion means they serve sushi as well as regular person food. Eating at a fusion place is like being an unsatisfied bisexual: the meat you’re gnawing on might be nice, but you’ll always wonder how that piece of raw fish at the other table would feel in your mouth.

We walk in, put our name in for a table, and go to the bar. The décor of the place is brightly colored with sharp lines and some 40’s and 60’s ephemera along with some artwork. It generally looked like an art deco TGI Fridays which sounds tackier than it really was. The bar was a long piece of blond wood with curves, no real angled edges. Personally, I am of the opinion that bars should be of dark wood, preferably walnut or possibly cherry, and have ninety degree angles unless you are the Hard Rock Café or someplace similar, but that’s really just an opinion. As long as the booze is wet and the ice is cold, I don’t mind it so much.

So we saddle up to the bar. I notice that they have my favorite gin, Hendrick’s, behind the bar and I order a martini. Unfortunately, getting a bartender beyond a curved blond bar to pour a proper martini in a neo-art deco fusion restaurant is apparently exceptionally difficult. My interaction with the bartender went something like this:

“I’d like a Hendrick’s martini, please.”
“Are you sure you don’t want a special martini? We have several available like the (and she goes on to list a bunch of drinks that might interest a sixteen year old girl).”
“No, I’d just like a regular gin martini.”
“Ok… do you want that dry, or dirty, or anything?” (note that a bartender who actually knows her gins would not offer a dirty Hendrick’s martini because Hendrick’s is garnished with a cucumber, not a olive. I don’t generally expect bartenders to know that though.)
“No, just a regular gin martini, please.”

Why must I be subjected to this when I am ordering an iconic drink? If I was dithering or otherwise indecisive, or if I was asking her opinion on what to have, maybe then I’d accept a laundry list of over-sugared “martinis,” but I wasn’t. I was sure of what I wanted before I walked in the door, and I think I look and act like someone who knows what he wants from the bar. What the heck?

This, of course, leads into question one. What is with all these specialty “martinis,” like the chocolate martini and the apple martini? Why did it suddenly become hip to put Apple Pucker in a martini glass and call it a martini, and what would be wrong with just making that same drink in a tumbler? Someone, somewhere must be making money on the selling of sugary drinks to people and calling them martinis. Generally I wouldn’t care, but when it interferes with my fine drinking experience, it becomes my issue.

So I get my martini, and it is decent, and we get our table, sit down, and look at the menu. Of course it is full of ambitious but somewhat nonsensical food, like a juniper rubbed steak. Actually, I had the juniper rubbed steak and it was quite nice, but frankly it is hard to make a bad steak, assuming you start with a good slab of meat (they did) and don’t over work it (they didn’t; the juniper was nice and subtle). Ironically, my gin martini was a very nice complement to the juniper rubbed steak. I don’t recall the specifics of my companions, but looking at their menu gives you an idea of the stuff they serve:

-Veal Bolognese (Why someone would make Bolognese from veal is beyond me)
-Orange & Coriander Chicken (served, bizarrely, with a yucca salad)
-Grilled NY Strip (Labeled as “choice grade.” Well la-de-effen-da. There’s also a “how to order your steak” sidebar on their menu which is, of course, a hallmark of fine restaurants everywhere)
-Maple-glazed scallops (why? God in heaven, why maple and scallops?)
-The sushi menu, which is tuna, tuna, crab, tuna, tuna, salmon. Where’s the uni and the squid?

They also have a thing for scapes, which are green garlic shoots. They are yummy, but I don’t see why they need to be in every other dish. Or rather why they have to be announced as being in every other dish.

So, an ambitious menu, but the food itself was frankly forgettable once you ate it. I’d rather see their chefs focus on doing basic items well and getting their chops than doing zany stuff like shrimp w/ pesto pearls (which actually sounds like couscous tossed w/ pesto).

So, onto the second question. All in all, the place seems to focus more on style than substance, just like the bar and the décor. So how much can you tell about the food of a place from how the bartender interacts with customers?

Thoughts?
 
First: Excellent post, some quality writing here. The "art-deco TGI Fridays" and the description of fusion restaurants in particular were top-drawer, sir. (I was half expecting the description of the curved blonde bar to lead to a brilliant play in describing a curved blonde bartender, but I digress.)

1. Yes, I am. I don't even drink martinis myself, but I don't understand the fascination either. This trend began years ago - well before Mad Men - so I'm not clear on the fixation with making a drink that's completely unrelated to gin and vermouth and calling it "martini." You might as well grab some hockey sticks and a puck and invent a game called "Northern jai alai." I assume it's just a successful marketing ploy to make vacuous sorority girls feel like they're ordering something classy? Not sure.

2. Never thought much about this, but you're on to something. Most of those newish faux-trendy chain restaurants are trying to create "a dining experience" rather than just focusing on serving great food with great drinks - resulting in a "dining experience" that feels like you're an extra in a TV commercial or living inside a glossy magazine ad. No soul - style over substance, like you said. But not even real style - a fake, manufactured style distilled from analysis of market research. Welcome to capitalism, I guess?
 
I don't drink really at all but in my *admittedly amateur* opinion, any drink not made of gin and vermouth is not a martini, sorry. A martini is a noun that refers to a specific beverage, just because it's served in another object called a martini glass doesn't mean it is one. I can pour orange juice in a Pepsi can, it will still be orange juice, not Pepsi.

As for the menu thing, I avoid trendy restaurants of the type you are talking about like the plague specifically because of this kind of nonsense. The restaurants I frequent are no nonsense. When I walk into a Vietnamese restaurant, I want pho, I don't want "fusion". If I go into a home cooking restaurant, I expect to be served pork chops when I order pork chops, I have enough disingenuous claptrap to deal with at work without it spelling over into my eating life too.
 
Suburbs. Somehow suburbs spawn this nonsense. It does not matter what store I walk into in the vast wasteland the sprawls outward from Chicago, they all look the the same. It is a disorienting and unsettling form of purgatory to visit.
 
Regarding trendy restaurants, I don’t have a real problem with them assuming the food is done well. I think the real problem with trendy restaurants is that they switch up their menus but don’t perform due diligence to perfect their recipes or train their cooks when they do so. So you get a restaurant that has a great menu for a season, then they switch it up and it goes south. It’s like what they say about bands’ sophomore albums: you’ve got your whole life to make your first album and eighteen months to make your second.

I think there’s some validity to Farm Boy’s notion that this is related to being in the ‘burbs. Restaurants in real cities either make good food or die, but those establishments with less competition probably feel less pressure to actually produce a decent product. Pomfret isn’t exactly a suburb of anything though, although I suppose you could say that Connecticut amounts to one big suburb.
 
-Maple-glazed scallops (why? God in heaven, why maple and scallops?)

Thoughts?

I've deleted the bits where I have no disagreement with you, but at the risk of lowering myself in your eyes I must concede that maple-glazed scallops sound utterly delectable to my mental tastebuds. :drool:
 
I suppose you could say that Connecticut amounts to one big suburb.

And a blue one and a yellow one / And they're all made out of ticky tacky...
 
Hawkeye Pearce had it right


"I'd like a dry martini, Mr. Quoc, a very dry martini. A very dry, arid, barren, desiccated, veritable dustbowl of a martini. I want a martini that could be declared a disaster area. Mix me just such a martini."
 
Winston Churchill style martini. You fill a glass with gin, and look at a bottle of vermouth.
 
First off, this is one of the best online rants I've read this side of Askthepizzaguy. Well dine, sir. Second off, why would you be eating out if you didn't know how to order steak, and why does your waiter have his job if he can't explain it to you? Those menu inserts (along with those stupid foods and beverages) seem like a significant waste of paper. Odd that such "trendy" restaurants are popular with folks who fancy themelves environmentally conscious.
 
Two Questions:

Are you perturbed by the excess of specialty “martinis” out there?

How much can you tell about a restaurant based on its bar and bartenders?

I am apparently not of the James Bond stock that you are, and don't know so much about cocktails as you. But what I have learned is that the quality of the food in a restaurant can often be gleaned from the menu. If the menu is very long, it probably means that the chef is making up for his lack of quality with quantity of choice. A good restaurant menu will only have 1 or 2 pages, excluding the wine list.

The bar doesn't usually say much about the restaurant, since the bartender and chef have no connection, and operate independently.

My story starts with my folks taking my girlfriend and I out to dinner one night.

I'm glad you clarified your sexual orientation from the start. ;)
 
Back
Top Bottom