Declassified archival documents unearthed by biographer
Hal Vaughan reveal that the French Préfecture de Police had a document on Chanel in which she was described as "Couturier and perfumer. Pseudonym: Westminster. Agent reference: F 7124. Signalled as suspect in the file" (
Pseudonyme: Westminster. Indicatif d'agent: F 7124. Signalée comme suspecte au fichier).
[42][6]:140 For Vaughan, this was a piece of revelatory information linking Chanel to German intelligence operations. Anti-Nazi activist
Serge Klarsfeld declared, "It is not because Chanel had a spy number that she was necessarily personally implicated. Some informers had numbers without being aware of it." ("
Ce n'est pas parce que Coco Chanel avait un numéro d'espion qu'elle était nécessairement impliquée personnellement. Certains indicateurs avaient des numéros sans le savoir").
[43]
Vaughan establishes that Chanel committed herself to the German cause as early as 1941 and worked for General
Walter Schellenberg, chief of the German intelligence agency
Sicherheitsdienst (Security Service) and the military intelligence spy network
Abwehr (Counterintelligence) at the
Reich Main Security Office (
Reichssicherheitshauptamt) in
Berlin.
[6]:xix At the end of the war, Schellenberg was tried by the
Nuremberg Military Tribunal, and sentenced to six years' imprisonment for war crimes. He was released in 1951 owing to incurable liver disease and took refuge in Italy. Chanel paid for Schellenberg's medical care and living expenses, financially supported his wife and family, and paid for Schellenberg's funeral upon his death in 1952.
[6]:205–07
Suspicions of Coco Chanel's involvement first began when German tanks entered Paris and began the Nazi occupation. Chanel immediately sought refuge in the deluxe Hotel Ritz, which was also used as the headquarters of the German military. It was at the Hotel Ritz where she fell in love with Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage working in the German embassy close to the Gestapo. When the Nazi occupation of France began, Chanel decided to close her store, claiming a patriotic motivation behind such decision. However, when she moved into the same Hotel Ritz that was housing the German military, her motivations became clear to many. While many women in France were punished for “
horizontal collaboration” with German officers, Chanel faced no such action. At the time of the French liberation in 1944, Chanel left in a note in her store window explaining Chanel No. 5 to be free to all GIs. During this time, she fled to Switzerland to avoid criminal charges for her collaborations as a Nazi spy.
[38] After the liberation, she was known to have been interviewed in Paris by
Malcolm Muggeridge, who at the time was an officer in British Military intelligence, about her relationship with the Nazis during the occupation of France.
[44]