Shopping Thread .. or What Did You Buy?

Castle Itter arrived yesterday! It's a solo wargame, but when it arrived I was amazed that my wife expressed interest in it, so we may end up learning it together sometime this week. It's a board game adaptation of the Battle for Castle Itter - "The Strangest Battle of WWII".
The Battle for Castle Itter was fought in the Austrian North Tyrol village of Itter on 5 May 1945, in the last days of the European Theater of World War II.

Troops of the 23rd Tank Battalion of the 12th Armored Division of the US XXI Corps led by Captain John C. "Jack" Lee, Jr., a number of Wehrmacht soldiers led by Major Josef "Sepp" Gangl, SS-Hauptsturmführer Kurt-Siegfried Schrader, and recently freed French prisoners of war defended Castle Itter against an attacking force from the 17th SS Panzergrenadier Division until relief from the American 142nd Infantry Regiment of the 36th Division of XXI Corps arrived.

The French prisoners included former prime ministers, generals and a tennis star. It is the only known time during the war in which Americans and Germans fought side by side. Popular accounts of the battle have called it the strangest battle of World War II.
 
Commodore's Warhammer thread has a lot of that. He's gotten pretty darn decent in the last couple years from what I can tell.
 
Castle Itter arrived yesterday! It's a solo wargame, but when it arrived I was amazed that my wife expressed interest in it, so we may end up learning it together sometime this week. It's a board game adaptation of the Battle for Castle Itter - "The Strangest Battle of WWII".
That's a story that sounds like it's right out of a movie. Something with Lee Marvin, maybe. The Germans had used the castle for high-profile French prisoners, including a couple of then-famous WWI generals, a couple of former PMs, one of Charles De Gaule's sisters, and a pro tennis star, all of whom were still there. I think the tennis player volunteered to run down the mountain, to deliver a message to the American forces nearby. The castle was also staffed by Eastern European prisoners from Dachau, one of whom had been a member of the resistance in Yugoslavia. iirc, the Wehrmacht soldiers believed the SS weren't just coming for the VIP prisoners, but were going to execute civilians who hung either an Austrian flag or a white flag.
 
I received my little miniatures for Dungeons & Dragons and my painting supplies. Now I will need to paint them, somehow. They're really itty-bitty!

Does anyone have miniatures painting advice?

Commodore's Warhammer thread has a lot of that. He's gotten pretty darn decent in the last couple years from what I can tell.
@Commodore is the man for the plan for this request
 
@hobbsyoyo Don't forget about books! There are lots of excellent ones for kids under 5.
 
I just ordered two new tunic sweaters, 2 sizes too big. That other discussion about wearing an oversize sweater and nothing else made me want some new ones now that weather is getting colder.
 
I was shopping at Meijer and bought this sleepshirt, because it made me think of @hobbsyoyo.

Please forgive me, I'm not wearing makeup and have bed hair. Also weird angle trying to get both my face and logo in my selfie.

4gpFC09qT8WpniznBRSfcw.jpg
 
I received my little miniatures for Dungeons & Dragons and my painting supplies. Now I will need to paint them, somehow. They're really itty-bitty!

Does anyone have miniatures painting advice?
With Commodore having taken a, uh, vacation, I can offer some advice though my experience is more with pewter models.
The single most important thing is to get a plastic-safe spray primer. Spray primers go on thinner than brushed primer so more detail in the model is retained. Other useful tips:
-Acrylic paints are your friend. They can be thinned down nicely and tend to dry as matte, as opposed to gloss.
-Make sure your paints dry matte, not gloss. You may think you want gloss for highlights or to give it a fantastical edge; you don't. It will just make the mini look toy-like.
-For the first coat (hopefully the primer, but otherwise the base coat) make it the same 'tone' as your finished mini. If the finished mini is a dude in heavy armor, you want a black base coat. If it is a light tone, go for a lighter base/primer.
-Drybrushing is your friend, especially for doing armor. Put some paint on your brush, wipe it on a paper towel until most of the paint is gone, and then drag the 'dry' brush along the edges/ridges you want to highlight.
-Using a tiny brush, mixing some white into your paint and drawing a line along the edges of cloaks/clothing can add a lot of dynamism to the model.
-Don't try and paint facial features. Unless the D&D models got a whole lot bigger than I remember, any attempt to paint facial features will look anywhere from clownish to a Picasso come to life. (An ear there, a nose here, eyes sliding down into the cheek, etc.)

Realized that since Model United Nations has gone virtual this year and I don't need to buy plane tickets, I have some extra cash so I dropped it on some train models:
First is a model of an EMD NW2 switcher locomotive in the Great Northern 'Empire Builder' paint scheme. This locomotive comes equipped with a 'decoder' which is a tiny computer mounted in the locomotive so it can be controlled by a computer. This permits multiple locomotives to be run and different speeds and directions on the same electrical circuit on the track. This one also comes equipped with a speaker and sound decoder so it will make diesel noises and change in pitch/tone as the engine is put under greater load.
NW2.jpeg


The second is an EMD SD9 road engine, built to do all sorts of work, from switching to hauling trains over mountains. This one is in Great Northern's "Big Sky Blue" scheme which was started in the late 1960s, and that paint scheme is one of the reasons I 'model'* Great Northern in the late 60s/early 70s. This one does not come equpped with a decoder, so I'll have to get around to installing one myself, though thankfully this is a later model, so it is decoder-ready, shouldn't have any need to solder wires or -god forbid- mill the frame.
386E7F38-CEB6-4FB9-9EF4-7BC5D117D7BA.jpeg


*At this stage merely collecting stuff and having more ideas than sense rolling around my head!

You can see some of my other models sitting on storage tracks in the background. (Great Northern S-2 Northern-type steam locomotive, a Great Northern GE U25 Road Engine, also in Big Sky Blue, and some heavyweight passenger cars in the background (circa 1925, for use with the S-2.)
 
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Thank you @Ajidica. I ordered a magnifying visor a couple days ago, and on your advice I just ordered a can of spray primer.
 
I have some extra cash so I dropped it on some train models:
First is a model of an EMD NW2 switcher locomotive in the Great Northern 'Empire Builder' paint scheme. This locomotive comes equipped with a 'decoder' which is a tiny computer mounted in the locomotive so it can be controlled by a computer. This permits multiple locomotives to be run and different speeds and directions on the same electrical circuit on the track. This one also comes equipped with a speaker and sound decoder so it will make diesel noises and change in pitch/tone as the engine is put under greater load.
View attachment 569837

The second is an EMD SD9 road engine, built to do all sorts of work, from switching to hauling trains over mountains. This one is in Great Northern's "Big Sky Blue" scheme which was started in the late 1960s, and that paint scheme is one of the reasons I 'model'* Great Northern in the late 60s/early 70s. This one does not come equpped with a decoder, so I'll have to get around to installing one myself, though thankfully this is a later model, so it is decoder-ready, shouldn't have any need to solder wires or -god forbid- mill the frame.
View attachment 569836

*At this stage merely collecting stuff and having more ideas than sense rolling around my head!

You can see some of my other models sitting on storage tracks in the background. (Great Northern S-2 Northern-type steam locomotive, a Great Northern GE U25 Road Engine, also in Big Sky Blue, and some heavyweight passenger cars in the background (circa 1925, for use with the S-2.)
Very nice. What scale are these? N is the most popular here, but evidently the sizes aren’t uniform even between same-lettered scales used in different countries. :confused:
 
I am setting up a covid isolation space, and am making a mini kitchen. I have got bids on these 2 white goods, £6 quid each:
Spoiler Fridge and cooker :


And some other kit for about the same:
Spoiler Kitchen tat :


I am thinking of a projector instead of a TV, this is going for £16 currently
Spoiler Projector :
 
Very nice. What scale are these? N is the most popular here, but evidently the sizes aren’t uniform even between same-lettered scales used in different countries. :confused:
Yep, Nscale.
Not sure what you are referring to with size. American Nscale is 1:160 and Japanese Nscale is, I believe, 1:150; a difference, but shouldn't be enough to tell by naked eye.
Only thing I can think of is that in Japan Nscale tracks (nine millimetres between rails) to model Japanese narrow gauge or traction lines, so while the track size stays the same, the train models themselves are larger, as here the nine millimetres represents standard gauge, which is just over 4'6".
 
From Steam, I'm buying Sinking Island.

I am a private detective summoned to a remote island where the millionaire owner has been found dead at the bottom of a cliff with scratch marks on his face. His wheelchair is at the top of the cliff. I have 3 days to solve the murder because the island is sinking. :eek:

Cost: US$ 0.50. :cool:
 
Not sure what you are referring to with size.
I meant what you posted here:

American Nscale is 1:160 and Japanese Nscale is, I believe, 1:150; a difference, but shouldn't be enough to tell by naked eye.
I thought it would be confusing if I said the same scale is different, but I bungled the language anyhow. Ratio! Maybe that’s the word.
 
You....bought an apartment? :confused:
 
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